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    • By Sierra Dan
      Here is a little extra information I found on from GM TechLink with tips and details regarding the lift points on the new T1 GM trucks.
      Newdude posted something similar in the frame issues topic a while back. I just thought I would add a little extra to that information.
       
       
      Lift Points
      TIP: Prior to servicing the vehicle using a lift hoist, the vehicle power assist steps must be disabled to prevent accidental activation. Use lift pads/spacers to provide proper clearance between the lift hoist arms and the vehicle’s fixed or power assist steps. After servicing the vehicle, be sure to enable the power assist steps.
      For lifting the vehicle, various lift points are recommended. (Fig. 13) The lift points are:
      Circular jack pad Widest point of the frame rail; requires adapter that is wider than the frame rail when using a hoist. Contact your hoist manufacturer for the appropriate adapter. Rear frame contact points Rear axle contact points Differential contact points Fig. 13
      For the front locations, the two approved lifting points are the circular jack pad (Fig. 14) and the widest point of the frame rail, which requires an adapter from the hoist manufacturer. (Fig. 15)
      Fig. 14
      Fig. 15
      The hoist pads must not contact the rocker panels, the floor pan or, at the front pad location, the front fenders.
      Lift pad adapters for Challenger and Rotary lifts are available through GM Dealer Equipment.
      When lifting at the differential (#5) with a floor jack, avoid point loading the center section of the axle, which is aluminum on most rear axles. Use a floor jack with a rubber pad or wood block to prevent damage.
    • By Sierra Dan
      I had been using Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer for a while but not happy with how it sometimes lingered on my black paint.
      So I recently switched to Griot's Garage Speed Shine and am satisfied with the results.
      What do you guys prefer for Quik wipe and detail products? 
      What works best on our Black trucks?
    • By Hexa Fox
      Hey I will try to keep this short and to the point. For some time, I have been considering whether or not to sell my 2007 Silverado. It is coming up on needing a lot of work and I figure if I can scrape up the cash to make the payment on a newer Silverado/Sierra it might be worth it. Before I forgot it is 4x4 and has about 95,000 miles on it. It is a long bed and has the 4.8 V8 engine. 
       
      Anyway, the truck has been suffering from what I would call 'considerable' rust underneath to the frame and now it has began to get around the bottom of my paint job and chip it off. I was thinking about sanding it down (or having someone do it for me) and painting the lower six inches or so black. I have seen it done on a lot of trucks. It is also coming up on new brake pads, possibly calibers and rotors as well. Also it has never had the transmission oil changed so I am planning on changing the filter in the pan and doing that as well. So basically I am sort of beginning to wonder if I should consider selling it and purchasing a newer one. However, the truck has never left me on the side of the road and runs great. 
    • By Zane
      There's a issue being claimed on Facebook that the new frames are susceptible to being bent if the trucks are not lifted correctly. The problem is the wider frames are also thinner... and require a wider puck for lifts. Which most people don't have?  Part of the claim is that a 2019 even fell off a lift because of this issue. 
       
      Has anyone else heard anything close to this? I can see how this might be plausible (new frames needing a special wide pucks) but I'm skeptical about frames actually bending and there being a "big issue". 
    • By warpmine
      My frame on my 2002 2500 is in piss poor shape and corroding quickly and I want to replace it with one from 2003. Is there any difference in mounting points between the two?
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