Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Yukon Axle Shafts Ordered

Recommended Posts

Well I ordered all the parts this morning to do the rear axle shafts and brake job.  Truck has 81,XXX miles on it.  Factory pads are about gone.  The passenger side axle shaft seal is back to leaking pretty bad.  It was R&R'd at 16k and has been sweating ever since and the dealer didn't want to hear it.  9 months later when I bought our new Enclave, I made sure I didn't step foot in that dealer. Anyway, I've also had the driveshaft balanced by a local shop which helped out quite a bit.  All but one person who I've found did Yukon shafts said it fixed the vibration.  So for $260, worth the old college try.  Parts list en route are.... 


-Yukon Axle Shafts

-ACDelco Wheel bearings (both sides)

-ACDelco axle shaft seals (both sides)

-GM Diff cover gasket (yes I know its reusable but I've already used it once with my PML Cover and put silicone on it. )

-Raybestos Police package rotors.  I read that these are mill balanced to a pretty good spec.  Tolerances in general are much tighter. 

-Raybestos hybrid ceramic truck pads


While I have it apart I'm going to do a gear pattern check, R&P backlash check at multiple locations around the ring AND check the pinion pre-load measurement.  I read that one of these lemon buy back vibrators was donated to a tech school and upon disassembly the pinion pre-load was zero.  Yes, zero.  So i'm going through the axle my way. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does not look like Yukon has an ETA for these axle shafts.  I emailed Yukon to find out more... see if they had any info.  Just got a canned "not ETA" email back.  Does anyone know where to buy these 2014+ 12 Bolt axle shafts?  I cannot find anyone else making them. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I canceled my order THR night and then Friday morning I get a shipment email notification from JEGS.  Called to make sure they did not divert the shipment and reinstate my order.  ETA is this WED.  We'll see if they sent the correct # shafts and if so I'll be thrilled. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry if I missed it but it's not clear in the text. Why are you swapping axel shafts? Is it solely for vibration? I'm planning to regear at some point in the future and seems like it may be worth a shot if this can help alleviate some of the vibration in the truck. Any other upsides? (assuming vibration is a thing that is being fixed with this)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trying to fix the highway vibration in the arse end these trucks have.  I've found some posts on you tube where the Yukon shafts did fix the issue.  Figure for the price and effort its cheaper  and worth the shot before trading the truck in on a new F150. And, if it works.... I'll have stronger Chromoly shafts. I'm going to check gear pattern, backlash in multiple places and pinion pre-load while I have it apart. I really think its something within the new 12 bolt axle.  just stink its my daily driver and don't have the ability to re-built the axle from the ground up.

Edited by FL335i
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well I got it taken apart and put back together today.  I'll upload pics tomorrow in the AM, it's been a long day. 


Setback # 1.  Yukon has the wrong part # listed for our axles!!!  The part # listed on its website for our 2014 + 9.5"/9.76" is YAG23199121 which is 34-5/8" long.  The shafts I took out of my axle today were the same kind, but 34.02" long.  So I called up jegs and am in the process of swapping out to the correct part # YAG15812663.  This part # is listed as 2007+ 9.5".  This was an option on the previous generation 1500 with he 6.0L and tow pkg IIRC.  I almost bought one in '08... 


I continued on, replaced the bearings and seals.  You can search previous threads of mine, at 16k my RR axle seal went and blew gear oil all over the place.  At 40 something thousand it started "weeping".  Dealer would not do jack so I've been driving it.  Fast forward to 83k I'm at now, it's leaking bad again.  What I noticed on the right side  was that the axle housing was molested.  Burrs, nicks, scarring etc.  No idea how the inside and outer axle tube end could have that much damage.  I spent about 30 minutes with a file, sand papers and cleaned it all up nicely.  This is where the seal sits.  So if I installed a new seal, as you drive it in, the burrs are not providing a smooth surface for the metal seal body.  This probably explains why at 16K the truck started leaking oil out the RR axle.  So glad when the dealer repaired it they took the time to see WTF at brand new truck was leaking gear oil.  Guess I finally answered my question.  Ok, so now we have the axle tube cleaned up, new bearing and new seals installed. 


Next, I open the GM TSB for the vibrations on our truck.  I go to the section where they go over the rear axle.  The TSB tells you to check EACH TOOTH of the diff for backlash.  Variations between each tooth cannot be more than .002".  I checked backlash at each tooth.  No more than .001" variations if any.  No issues here. Pass.


While checking backlash, the TSB indicates that the spec range for backlash is .003" to .010", but they RECOMMEND .005" to .007".  So the old target of .006" BL.  Guess what my backlash is?  .011".  Almost twice what the TSB is targeting for BL.  When building my previous axles in other trucks, I always target .006".  And I used the same dial indicator I've used to setup all my previous axles.  I never would close up an axle with .011" of BL.  So I take the ring gear and carrier out.  the TSB was nice enough to provide the bearing cap torque specs (63 Lbs/Ft).  There is only one large shim on each side.  I measured them and was trying to see if I could swap them to get the ring gear closer to the pinion, but that's how it was already setup. I have leftover Yukon shims from my '89 Blazer's front 10-bolt built, but the bearings on the new 12 bolts are much larger.  So this issue of excessive BL needs addressed.  I need to order some shims and get the BL to the .005"-.007" window the TSB recommends and that has been the gospel BL spec for years. 


While the carrier is out, I check the pinion for preload.  32mm socket if anyone is wondering what size the nut is.  I found the pinion preload to be perfect.  I was reading on my 1/4" drive beam inch pound torque wrench 12-13 inch lbs.  If you look up the spec for a "used bearings" 10-bolt or most other axles it's 6-9 inch lbs.  I like preload, it's good...   my pinion is setup correctly. 


Gear pattern check.  So with everything back together and my out of spec sloppy .011" BL, I do a gear patter check.  Pattern looks pretty good, no complaints.  But the pattern does hint at the excessive BL reading.  The pattern was a bit shallow.  So when the BL comes down to what is should be, the pattern will probably look perfect.  So this was pretty good... no real complaints.


Being I had to re-install my OEM axle shafts, I cleaned up the bearing and seal area with some sandpapers.  I used 1000 and then 2000 grit.  They needed it.  Just something that should be done because what I noticed is that when dealing with the C-clips, the axle has to be pushed inward quite a bit, and the seal rides up on the axle shaft to an area where it normally does not ride and if you have a bunch of dirt, debris or worse a bur it will damage the new seal on re-install.  So I cleaned them up really well being I had to re-install them with my new seals already in. 


I also installed new rotors and pads.  The OEM brakes went 83k and I still had some pad left, but the rotors were warping.  I went with Raybestos Police Rotors and Raybestos Truck & SUV ceramic pad.  I compared the rotors to the factory ones I took off.  The factory rotors had 57 vanes.  The new rotors had 58 vanes.  Next difference was the thickness of each plate.  the center air gap was noticeably smaller on the new rotors, indicating a much thicker plate while maintaining the overall rotor thickness.  These rotors came with the nice zinc coating like the rotors I used to buy for my BMW's years back.  Rotors look like a nice and easy upgrade from the factory part. I cleaned out the caliper slides which had black grease in there.  I used the same stuff I used on my BMW's.... bright purple HIGH TEMP Ceramic brake grease. Good for like 900 Degrees or something stupid like that. 


TO BE CONTINUED.  Once I have the correct yukon axle shafts in hand along with some carrier bearing shims....  I'm going back in.  BL adjustment and new Axle shafts and this axle will get my blessing to be "closed up".  From what I saw today, I am 99% convinced the vibrations we are getting in the new trucks is from this new axle.  And from what the TSB is indicating to check on the rear axle GM knows it too.  These new 12 bolts were built in a AAM Mexico barn. 








Edited by FL335i
Adding Pics
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The last time I tightened up the backlash on a rear differential, it went out about 20k miles later.  Once the gears have taken set, I would advise not changing backlash or making any other adjustments.  Maybe you'll get lucky, I guess I would advise just be careful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Derick R
      Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r. 
    • By Arvid Podsim
      Reciently the Check Engine Lamp (MIL) came on at start and remainded on with no noticable engine running rough.  The error codes were read which indicated 400+ Cold Start error codes on Cylinder No.3.  Their are several GM Service Bulletins (PIP5498M, PIP5628E) on this subject V8 on engines from 2000-2022.  The bulletins indicate the "Cold Start" causes misfires due to coolant entering the at the liner to deck face casting or the casting line in the intake port of the cylinder head, in my case No. 3.  The GM Service bulletins indicate "engine replacement" is needed to fix this problem.  I have been very happy about this vehicle however, at 67K miles, this type of issue should NOT be occuring.  Apparently GM has know about this problem since 2000-2020 model years described on the attached Service Bulletins.
      After Two days of MIL being ON, the lamp is now OFF.  My question is how can the problem described repair itself and could the diagonistic codes be attributed to another problem?  I was under the impression that once the diagonistic code is initiated, the only method of turning OFF the MIL is by resetting or clearing the codes.
      PIP5498M.pdf PIP5498M.pdf
    • By BenCash
      Seen this driving the other day.
      Interior looks like an Escalade but rear end makes me think otherwise couldn’t get a look at the front.

    • By Snake River Wraps
      2004 Yukon Denali XL 1500 AWD
      Ok, so I have done many brakes in the past but this has me stumped. I put new calipers rotors and pads all the way around on the truck and have bled the brakes like 6 times. twice with a helper and 4 times with a bottle. All times the fluid comes out with no air but it still goes to the floor when its turned on. A small amount of push back is noticed after pumping a few times while the truck is off. But as soon as I turn it on and push its nothing. I have read about there possibly being air in the ABS module and am looking for how to bleed that with just one person and have it actually work. The master cylinder is and has been filled throughout and never dropper too low. I placed all the new parts and puller the hose off the old calipers and attached it to the new ones quickly replacing the copper washers. I just cant figure out what could be happening, any help would be appreciated.
    • By GMjarrett
      I recently purchased a rebuilt title Yukon, comes with the magnetic ride. The ride is extremely rough, to the point where I’m assuming the system is just not operating. I’m not getting a message on the display for anything, unless the parking sensors and lane change sensors not working have something to do with it. The previous owner said he installed a 2” level kit to help the ride. At the time I didn’t understand what he was talking about. But anyone with any information or previous experience that could spread some knowledge, I would be thankful. 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    Total Topics
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Newest Member

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.