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Bioboi

2017 Yukon Running Funny

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Hey guys. Bear with me here this is a long one. 

 

Ive got some questions about our 2017 Yukon 5.3. We got it new last August and have 27,000 miles on it. Let me first say that we own a ‘95 C1500 5.7 from brand new and an ‘01 Yukon 5.3 from new. So we own 3 different generations of effectively the same vehicle (or at least the same in terms of drivetrain). (Yes the 5.7 TBI is not a 5.3 Vortec...or EcoTec...you get what I’m saying)

 

Alright now for why I’m here. 

So at about 20k miles we noticed a vibration at idle and took it in under warranty. They said it was the motor mounts. Said they looked like they’d been through hell and back. That fixed the vibration for a little while. It started again and this time they said it was the transmission mount. That fixed it again for a little while but it’s back again and we aren’t gonna just keep replacing mounts till the warranty expires. 

 

So my first question is, why is this thing eating mounts?

 

Also, this truck just doesn’t idle as well as the ‘95 (300k miles) or the ‘01 (400k). Both of them just purr like a finely tuned Bentley.   Maybe the mounts affect that but geez for the year 2017 it just sounds rough. I mean, you hear a lot of valvetrain noise and it doesn’t sound as smooth. 

 

2nd question, is that normal? This is the only truck from this generation I’ve been around so I can’t compare it with others. Only to the previous gens. 

 

Next, the startup sounds sluggish. Like the battery is discharged.  This could be simply a junk battery but if 10 people say theirs do it to, or say it does it even after a brand new battery, I can determine that this is normal. 

 

So how do your trucks startup? Fast or slow?

 

Cylinder deactivation. Now I’ve heard this is a sketchy, horrible system, and ours lives up to that. It will switch between V8 and V4 constantly.  I’ve heard that if the wind blows the right way it’ll kick up into V8. And yeah ours does that. Any little hill or touch on the throttle it’ll kick up. I just figure they’d program it to be a little more assertive in V4 and let you actually use it. Also, the MPG really doesn’t improve with V4. (It does at like 30mph but that doesn’t count). I notice about 22-24 in V8 at 65, and 20-22 in V4. Also, the engine sounds like crap in V4. You can totally hear the valves and all around more noise from the engine. I just figure in a “luxury” vehicle this should be nonexistent. But again I have next to no experience with this system. 

 

2nd to last question, is V4/V8 supposed to be like what I described? It just seems like a buggy and far from perfect system. 

 

Ok last bug - Transmission. This is somewhat related to the cylinder deactivation. This truck has the 6spd and the 3.23 diff. Every time it switches from V4 into V8, the RPMs jump. They don’t jump enough to be going into 5th, so it looks like it is unlocking the torque converter. Then it settles back down in lockup. This is something I would think the engineers would avoid, as an unlocked torque converter at highway speeds in top gears would generate loads of heat and wear. Hence the reason for a lockup.  Maybe I’m wrong? Seems unnecessary to jump around so much. My ‘95 will stay in 4th-locked unless you near floor it then it just goes to 3rd. 

 

So last question is, should the transmission be so jumpy with the TC? Shouldn’t it lockup in 5th/6th and stay there unless you mash the pedal? 

 

Sorry for the small book. I’ve probably broken some rule on this forum for character limit ?

 

Any information or input you guys give will be greatly appreciated. We loved our ‘01 and still love it after 400,000 miles, and we wanna love and enjoy this one too.

 

Thanks

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I have a 2017 Chevy Tahoe that has none of the issues you describe. I would search cars.com or autotrader.com and go test drive a vehicle just like yours to see if it exhibits any of the symptoms you described. If not then I would ask the Dealer to fix yours. Sometimes we can get a lemon and if they don't fix it to your satisfaction I would look at the Lemon Law in your state and hire a Lemon Law attorney who usually get paid as part of the settlement and no out of pocket expense to you. We pay way too much for these big GM SUVs to not be happy with what we are driving. And by the way GM is not your friend, they are only there to take your hard earned money.  Been there done that. Good luck.

Edited by Tahoe02
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Hey guys. Bear with me here this is a long one. 
 
Ive got some questions about our 2017 Yukon 5.3. We got it new last August and have 27,000 miles on it. Let me first say that we own a ‘95 C1500 5.7 from brand new and an ‘01 Yukon 5.3 from new. So we own 3 different generations of effectively the same vehicle (or at least the same in terms of drivetrain). (Yes the 5.7 TBI is not a 5.3 Vortec...or EcoTec...you get what I’m saying)
 
Alright now for why I’m here. 
So at about 20k miles we noticed a vibration at idle and took it in under warranty. They said it was the motor mounts. Said they looked like they’d been through hell and back. That fixed the vibration for a little while. It started again and this time they said it was the transmission mount. That fixed it again for a little while but it’s back again and we aren’t gonna just keep replacing mounts till the warranty expires. 
 
So my first question is, why is this thing eating mounts?
 
Also, this truck just doesn’t idle as well as the ‘95 (300k miles) or the ‘01 (400k). Both of them just purr like a finely tuned Bentley.   Maybe the mounts affect that but geez for the year 2017 it just sounds rough. I mean, you hear a lot of valvetrain noise and it doesn’t sound as smooth. 
 
2nd question, is that normal? This is the only truck from this generation I’ve been around so I can’t compare it with others. Only to the previous gens. 
 
Next, the startup sounds sluggish. Like the battery is discharged.  This could be simply a junk battery but if 10 people say theirs do it to, or say it does it even after a brand new battery, I can determine that this is normal. 
 
So how do your trucks startup? Fast or slow?
 
Cylinder deactivation. Now I’ve heard this is a sketchy, horrible system, and ours lives up to that. It will switch between V8 and V4 constantly.  I’ve heard that if the wind blows the right way it’ll kick up into V8. And yeah ours does that. Any little hill or touch on the throttle it’ll kick up. I just figure they’d program it to be a little more assertive in V4 and let you actually use it. Also, the MPG really doesn’t improve with V4. (It does at like 30mph but that doesn’t count). I notice about 22-24 in V8 at 65, and 20-22 in V4. Also, the engine sounds like crap in V4. You can totally hear the valves and all around more noise from the engine. I just figure in a “luxury” vehicle this should be nonexistent. But again I have next to no experience with this system. 
 
2nd to last question, is V4/V8 supposed to be like what I described? It just seems like a buggy and far from perfect system. 
 
Ok last bug - Transmission. This is somewhat related to the cylinder deactivation. This truck has the 6spd and the 3.23 diff. Every time it switches from V4 into V8, the RPMs jump. They don’t jump enough to be going into 5th, so it looks like it is unlocking the torque converter. Then it settles back down in lockup. This is something I would think the engineers would avoid, as an unlocked torque converter at highway speeds in top gears would generate loads of heat and wear. Hence the reason for a lockup.  Maybe I’m wrong? Seems unnecessary to jump around so much. My ‘95 will stay in 4th-locked unless you near floor it then it just goes to 3rd. 
 
So last question is, should the transmission be so jumpy with the TC? Shouldn’t it lockup in 5th/6th and stay there unless you mash the pedal? 
 
Sorry for the small book. I’ve probably broken some rule on this forum for character limit
 
Any information or input you guys give will be greatly appreciated. We loved our ‘01 and still love it after 400,000 miles, and we wanna love and enjoy this one too.
 
Thanks


Take it to the dealer and have them check it out, could be as simple as a flash/program. We’ve got the 16 SLT 5.3 loaded out, and absolutely love it, 30k miles on it, use it strictly for road trips.


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A lot of what is going to happen is going to be dependent upon the dealership service department. Most are very happy to just write on a service ticket "Operating as Designed" and tell you to go pound sand. I was told by a service employee that this is due to the fact that they have to diagnose the problem and if it is a hard to pinpoint type problem most will ignore you, and hope that you disappear. Apparently the diagnostic time is only paid for by GM for a short few minutes after that the meter is running on the dealerships dime. I would hazard a guess that the motor/transmission mounts are just the symptom and not the base of your problem. If you wish to keep the vehicle I would gather all information together (IN DETAIL) and try a different dealership service department. me myself, I would probably (actually just did) trade my problem vehicle but I understand that some folks do not wish to take a financial loss. I did not want to take the hit either but I calculated out that it was going to cost a Bunch of my time and the issue was probably going to take some of My Joy so BAM 7k thrown down the toilet just to trade up a year. Thanks GM you bunch of %&@'s  LOL   I guess the question is how much is your time worth? My New truck is cute though...............     

IMG_5846.jpg

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On 7/1/2018 at 7:33 PM, Bioboi said:

Hey guys. Bear with me here this is a long one. 

 

Ive got some questions about our 2017 Yukon 5.3. We got it new last August and have 27,000 miles on it. Let me first say that we own a ‘95 C1500 5.7 from brand new and an ‘01 Yukon 5.3 from new. So we own 3 different generations of effectively the same vehicle (or at least the same in terms of drivetrain). (Yes the 5.7 TBI is not a 5.3 Vortec...or EcoTec...you get what I’m saying)

 

Alright now for why I’m here. 

So at about 20k miles we noticed a vibration at idle and took it in under warranty. They said it was the motor mounts. Said they looked like they’d been through hell and back. That fixed the vibration for a little while. It started again and this time they said it was the transmission mount. That fixed it again for a little while but it’s back again and we aren’t gonna just keep replacing mounts till the warranty expires. 

 

So my first question is, why is this thing eating mounts?

 

Also, this truck just doesn’t idle as well as the ‘95 (300k miles) or the ‘01 (400k). Both of them just purr like a finely tuned Bentley.   Maybe the mounts affect that but geez for the year 2017 it just sounds rough. I mean, you hear a lot of valvetrain noise and it doesn’t sound as smooth. 

 

2nd question, is that normal? This is the only truck from this generation I’ve been around so I can’t compare it with others. Only to the previous gens. 

 

Next, the startup sounds sluggish. Like the battery is discharged.  This could be simply a junk battery but if 10 people say theirs do it to, or say it does it even after a brand new battery, I can determine that this is normal. 

 

So how do your trucks startup? Fast or slow?

 

Cylinder deactivation. Now I’ve heard this is a sketchy, horrible system, and ours lives up to that. It will switch between V8 and V4 constantly.  I’ve heard that if the wind blows the right way it’ll kick up into V8. And yeah ours does that. Any little hill or touch on the throttle it’ll kick up. I just figure they’d program it to be a little more assertive in V4 and let you actually use it. Also, the MPG really doesn’t improve with V4. (It does at like 30mph but that doesn’t count). I notice about 22-24 in V8 at 65, and 20-22 in V4. Also, the engine sounds like crap in V4. You can totally hear the valves and all around more noise from the engine. I just figure in a “luxury” vehicle this should be nonexistent. But again I have next to no experience with this system. 

 

2nd to last question, is V4/V8 supposed to be like what I described? It just seems like a buggy and far from perfect system. 

 

Ok last bug - Transmission. This is somewhat related to the cylinder deactivation. This truck has the 6spd and the 3.23 diff. Every time it switches from V4 into V8, the RPMs jump. They don’t jump enough to be going into 5th, so it looks like it is unlocking the torque converter. Then it settles back down in lockup. This is something I would think the engineers would avoid, as an unlocked torque converter at highway speeds in top gears would generate loads of heat and wear. Hence the reason for a lockup.  Maybe I’m wrong? Seems unnecessary to jump around so much. My ‘95 will stay in 4th-locked unless you near floor it then it just goes to 3rd. 

 

So last question is, should the transmission be so jumpy with the TC? Shouldn’t it lockup in 5th/6th and stay there unless you mash the pedal? 

 

Sorry for the small book. I’ve probably broken some rule on this forum for character limit ?

 

Any information or input you guys give will be greatly appreciated. We loved our ‘01 and still love it after 400,000 miles, and we wanna love and enjoy this one too.

 

Thanks

I have a 2016 Tahoe and it is showing the same problems and currently trying to get GM to buy it back it’s not an easy process hope you get some better results then me. The dealership changed the motor mounts and the issues continue so the dealership says no codes running as it’s supposed to. 

For a 55 thousand dollar vehicle no way!

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I have a 2017 Yukon XL with none of the issues you describe . 61K miles so far.  This does sound like you have an issue, but one I'm unable to assist with.

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I have a 2018 Tahoe and do not have a smooth idle. Its a very slight "misfire" it seems like. Its been like that since day one. Dealership said its normal. Nothing they can do without throwing codes. It really doesn't bother me that much because I don't have a loss of power or any shifting issues. I am looking at changing the air intake and the exhaust so maybe that might help. There are many discussions on here about rough idles.. I guess its the luck of the draw. I did disable the cylinder deactivation by using the Range Technology device. I have read horror stories about lifters collapsing at any given time so I wanted to avoid that. My starts up just fine

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Just wanna follow up on this.

 

The transmission went out at 69,000 miles two years later.

 

The dealer said the pump failed and essentially the trans overheated (instantly) and self-destructed.

Since we had 3 documented cases of the engine mounts being replaced, and 1 final case of us complaining about it before warranty went out, GM reluctantly paid for a REBUILD of the transmission. Sitting at 83,000 miles now, it drives better. They gave us a 1 year 100k mile warranty on the rebuild.

I also bought one of those plug in range things to shut down the useless AFM that ruins lifters and the cam. MPG went up by 2.

 

Hope this helps. If you're having similar symptoms, USE THIS THREAD. ARGUE WITH GM UNTIL THEY GIVE IN. DON'T GET GYPED BY BAD PRODUCTS.

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