2008 Sierra 1500 5.3 4x4 engine removal pics.

Supreme Pizza · July 10, 2018

Pulled a motor out on someones truck today. 2008 Sierra 1500 5.3 4x4.

I'm thinking about saving some of the parts off the old motor for my 2003, but some things are different. Valve covers, knock sensors, and throttle body are different for sure.

Does anyone know what parts are compatible with a 2003 Suburban 5.3 4x4? Do the heads match?

Engine removal pics:

Edited July 10, 2018 by starman8tdc

sefiroxx · July 10, 2018

No idea, but hah, my 01 was more grody

Supreme Pizza · July 10, 2018

Currently the replacement motor is sitting in the truck on the motor mounts, but nothing else has been hooked up yet.

From a running truck, to where its at now - it took 8 hours. I should have it running tomorrow.

Anyone have any install tips or suggestions that are specific to this vehicle?

Engine install pics:

Supreme Pizza · July 10, 2018

5 minutes ago, sefiroxx said:

No idea, but hah, my 01 was more grody

Man, that motor is definitely dirty.

sefiroxx · July 10, 2018

My 01 4x4 burb took about 12 hours with a new reman. Had to remove most of the cooling front end to clear the front height.

Nothing unusual on exchange. Put everything back on, an initial fluid fill - started right up.

sefiroxx · July 10, 2018

Man, that motor is definitely dirty.

Yep, 300k on it. Son took it from Tx to Co for some skiing and didn't watch the oil pressure. It had been on at least 12 cross country trips with nary a problem and then son seizes it up with his first trip. Oh well.

I had earlier planned on doing a full seal/gasket replacement on it - as well as clean up the valve train (lifter noise), but son decided for me. Rather than new burb (70k), opted to put in a reman. Been running great ever since.

newdude · July 10, 2018

Not sure how much exactly matches...but as far as differences, your 03 is a Gen 3 LS, the 08 is a Gen 4 LS. Not a whole lot I think will interchange, I could be wrong however. Lots of the hardware (head bolts, intake gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets) interchange, the exhaust manifolds should interchange.

- Gen 3 the knock sensors are in the valley, Gen 4 they are on either side of the block.

- Heads are different p/n, but that might not stop them from interchanging. I guess it would depend on what the specific differences are, and if any of the passages are the same.

- Oil pan gasket is the same, although they do use different oil filters, and may have different oil pans (PF-46 in 03, PF-48 for the 08).

- 06+ up are 58x reluctor wheel, 03 is 24x.

Oh, and on that new engine, might want to hammer out some new exhaust manifold bolts/gaskets and take a look under those heat shields. If it consumes any oil once running, be ready for some pistons/rings and an AFM delete.

What code engine was/is in the truck?

Edited July 10, 2018 by newdude

Supreme Pizza · July 10, 2018

15 minutes ago, newdude said:

Not sure how much exactly matches...but as far as differences, your 03 is a Gen 3 LS, the 08 is a Gen 4 LS. Not a whole lot I think will interchange, I could be wrong however. Lots of the hardware (head bolts, intake gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets) interchange, the exhaust manifolds should interchange.

- Gen 3 the knock sensors are in the valley, Gen 4 they are on either side of the block.

- Heads are different p/n, but that might not stop them from interchanging. I guess it would depend on what the specific differences are, and if any of the passages are the same.

- Oil pan gasket is the same, although they do use different oil filters, and may have different oil pans (PF-46 in 03, PF-48 for the 08).

- 06+ up are 58x reluctor wheel, 03 is 24x.

Oh, and on that new engine, might want to hammer out some new exhaust manifold bolts/gaskets and take a look under those heat shields. If it consumes any oil once running, be ready for some pistons/rings and an AFM delete.

What code engine was/is in the truck?

I'm glad you mentioned the oil filter difference. I will have one delivered in the morning, rather than using one of my spare '03 filters.

I was planning on re-using the exhaust gaskets, but if they leak I will get some new ones. The bolts were in good shape.

For the engine number: 8th VIN digit is "J" on both motors.

You were right about the heat shields, the motor mounts that came with the replacement engine were completely shot. I think they forget to unbolt them before trying to pull the motor, because they were almost ripped in two.

I noticed the new knock sensor location - much better design.

Both motors have a LOT of oil in the intake plenum and intake ports.

Whats the AFM delete?

Supreme Pizza · July 10, 2018

34 minutes ago, sefiroxx said:

Yep, 300k on it. Son took it from Tx to Co for some skiing and didn't watch the oil pressure. It had been on at least 12 cross country trips with nary a problem and then son seizes it up with his first trip. Oh well.

I had earlier planned on doing a full seal/gasket replacement on it - as well as clean up the valve train (lifter noise), but son decided for me. Rather than new burb (70k), opted to put in a reman. Been running great ever since.

That's a bummer man. Blowing up a motor due to a lack of oil is like bleeding to death because you simply didn't bother to apply pressure to wound.

Its very easy to prevent a catastrophic engine failure from a lack of oil, and the penalty for ignoring the issue is extreme.

sefiroxx · July 10, 2018

It was oil pump failure, had the kid check level when he first noticed something flickering. He then ignored the problem as it got formal. After pulling the motor, I was able to check the pump.

Did find a number of metal shavings so I decided to replace rather rebuild.

Supreme Pizza · July 10, 2018

Ah. Ya, if the oil pump died, it wouldn't take long to either throw a rod or lock it up. All you can do is hope the oil pressure sending unit has failed and drive it, or call a tow truck. At 300,000+ miles, I guess that motor doesn't really owe you anything though. How much was the rebuilt motor after everything said and done?

Edited July 10, 2018 by starman8tdc

sefiroxx · July 10, 2018

AFM is active fuel management. It allows the computer to turn of half the cylinders.

Search for AFM problems and AFM delete. The system turns on a special solenoid that forces a a special lifter to collapse, thus leaving the valves closed.

Special lifters have a history of problems.

A proper afm delete entails going back to std lifters and cam along with reprogram. If lifters are fine, a device can be installed that would deactivate the afm - but at a risk that the special lifters might fail in the future.

Supreme Pizza · July 10, 2018

Huh. Doesn't sound like something that I want to mess with. Hopefully everything goes well, and that its not needed.

Edited July 10, 2018 by starman8tdc

Supreme Pizza · July 11, 2018

My favorite engine removal video:

(the worlds fastest engine removal)

Test Driver · July 12, 2018

Thanks for posting all the pictures! I got saddled with an unexpected engine replacement on a Sierra 1500 just the other day, so these pictures have been a huge help in figuring out how to do this.

I do have a couple of questions though...

1) how do you get to the top center bellhousing bolt, and the upper left one behind the fuel lines? I can't get the fuel line/ harness bracket to move out of the way, and I can't even see the top center one with the cab in place.

Is it possible to do this without removing the intake manifold? It sure looks like it is... I've already got my lifting chain in place and it clears it easily, plus I can't reach the back of the manifold to get to the connectors back there because I can't get to the bolt to remove the cover. I was hoping to pull the harness with the engine and have it ready to go that way as every connector on the engine is jammed stuck with dirt/grit/mud... I think this truck was a mud bogger in it's former life.

I'm familiar with Fords where we lift the cab for everything, and I'm regretting that I didn't think to do that here.