2008 Sierra 1500 5.3 4x4 engine removal pics.

Supreme Pizza · July 12, 2018

48 minutes ago, Test Driver said:

Thanks for posting all the pictures! I got saddled with an unexpected engine replacement on a Sierra 1500 just the other day, so these pictures have been a huge help in figuring out how to do this.

I do have a couple of questions though...

1) how do you get to the top center bellhousing bolt, and the upper left one behind the fuel lines? I can't get the fuel line/ harness bracket to move out of the way, and I can't even see the top center one with the cab in place.

Is it possible to do this without removing the intake manifold? It sure looks like it is... I've already got my lifting chain in place and it clears it easily, plus I can't reach the back of the manifold to get to the connectors back there because I can't get to the bolt to remove the cover. I was hoping to pull the harness with the engine and have it ready to go that way as every connector on the engine is jammed stuck with dirt/grit/mud... I think this truck was a mud bogger in it's former life.

I'm familiar with Fords where we lift the cab for everything, and I'm regretting that I didn't think to do that here.

Those are fine questions, and I have the answers for you.

If its a 4x4, you MUST remove the intake manifold, Otherwise the oil pan will not clear the front diff - I tried. When you try to lift the motor out, the intake will hit the body and prevent the oil pan from slipping over the front diff. After taking the manifold off, the upper bell-housing bolts and brackets are extremely easy to remove. The intake is surprisingly easy to take off. Its only 10 bolts, that are easily accessible with an 8mm socket (5/16th) and a couple short extensions. Then remove some wires, and the fuel line. The intake removal is about 20 minutes.

If you have a 2 wheel drive rig, you might not have to pull the intake. You can reach those bolts and brackets with about 4 feet of extensions and a "tape wrapped" swivel , starting at the upper rear of the trans, near the cross-member. The fuel line bracket nut is a 13mm. Then you have to pull the fuel lines back (after removing various plastic fuel line retaining clips), and hold them in place with Bungy cord, in order to access the bell-housing bolt with a 15mm deep socket.

Hope this helps.

Feel free to ask for more info or pics.

Edited July 12, 2018 by starman8tdc

Test Driver · July 12, 2018

Thank you starman, that helps a lot! I've got a 2WD truck so it looks like the engine can slide forward pretty easily.

That swivel setup looks like what I've been doing so far, but I still can't get to the top center bolt... I was thinking of dropping the trans and rear crossmember down to see if I can get the angle. On the fuel line bracket, it looks like I just need to apply some more aggressive persuasion... ;)

Supreme Pizza · July 12, 2018

The fuel line bracket can defnitly be removed with extensions. It's not easy but it can be done, just keep at it. As for the top Center bellhousing bolt, I removed it by reaching in from the left side of the motor (passenger side) with a box end wrench. Make sure you don't disturb the heater core hoses, as that could cause a lot of problems.

Edited July 12, 2018 by starman8tdc

sefiroxx · July 12, 2018

Ditto star man on pulling the intake. Given the history of people and the bell housing bolt access, I went with intake pull from the very beginning - and saved me a lot of persuasion time.

Supreme Pizza · July 12, 2018

4 hours ago, sefiroxx said:

Ditto star man on pulling the intake. Given the history of people and the bell housing bolt access, I went with intake pull from the very beginning - and saved me a lot of persuasion time.

Ya, pulling the intake is definitely the way to go.

Supreme Pizza · July 12, 2018

Install pics:

Supreme Pizza · July 12, 2018

Runs perfect:

Video:

20180712_111854.mp4

Edited July 13, 2018 by starman8tdc

Supreme Pizza · July 12, 2018

Anyone need a spare paperweight?

Chubbs878 · July 14, 2018

I might elect to have the kid assist in all of this. Nothing like an engine swap saga to deter from bonehead mistakes, neglect, carelessness, however you want to look at it.

Unfortunately, an initial $15 O-ring on the oil pump pickup was possibly the original catalyst that starved the pump.

Without the the official diagnosis I would have guessed AFM related failure, which is pretty common. You can't trust that system but ignorance is bliss. Wish you the best and fantastic work on the swap. You make it to seem fairly effortless!

Supreme Pizza · July 15, 2018

I would highly recommend having a helper. Not only does it make the whole thing go way faster, but its also nice to have an extra set of hands to help with stuff like pushing up on the exhaust Y-pipe from under the rig, so that you can get the exhaust manifold bolts started. Another reason for the helper, is that each person has different preferences. I like hooking up the injectors and all the wiring but I'm not a big fan of messing with the flex plate bolts or the starter. Each person will do what he likes the most. Its also nice to be able to bounce ideas off of the other person if you hit a snag. And last but not least, when your working as a team - it keeps you motivated and on track.

By the time the job is done, the vehicle has had the benefit of two mechanics, rather than just one.

Test Driver · July 19, 2018

On 7/12/2018 at 11:30 AM, sefiroxx said:

Ditto star man on pulling the intake. Given the history of people and the bell housing bolt access, I went with intake pull from the very beginning - and saved me a lot of persuasion time.

I left the intake on, as it was difficult for me to get that far back in there to reach things and I'm more worried about dropping something down the intake or snagging a gasket while trying to sneak the manifold back in there. We were also replacing the entire wire harness so I feel it made it easier to just disconnect the few connectors down by the transmission and bring the harness out with the engine.

What I ended up doing was dropping the transmission crossmember down... then it was easy to get to all the bellhousing bolts with a set of long extensions. Once the bolts were out I put the crossmember bolts back through, and then repeated the process on installation.

Supreme Pizza · July 19, 2018

24 minutes ago, Test Driver said:

I left the intake on, as it was difficult for me to get that far back in there to reach things and I'm more worried about dropping something down the intake or snagging a gasket while trying to sneak the manifold back in there. We were also replacing the entire wire harness so I feel it made it easier to just disconnect the few connectors down by the transmission and bring the harness out with the engine.

What I ended up doing was dropping the transmission crossmember down... then it was easy to get to all the bellhousing bolts with a set of long extensions. Once the bolts were out I put the crossmember bolts back through, and then repeated the process on installation.

Was your rig a 4x4?

Same year?

I though about pulling the cross member, but it didn't happen.

I was originally against pulling the intake, but after doing it - I was really surprised how easy it was. It comes on and off pretty quickly. It looks much worse than it is.

Another advantage, is that you get to re-seal the intake - which is always good. I re-used the old plastic gaskets, but I put sealer on both sides before assembly.

Test Driver · July 20, 2018

39 minutes ago, starman8tdc said:

Was your rig a 4x4?

Same year?

I though about pulling the cross member, but it didn't happen.

I was originally against pulling the intake, but after doing it - I was really surprised how easy it was. It comes on and off pretty quickly. It looks much worse than it is.

Another advantage, is that you get to re-seal the intake - which is always good. I re-used the old plastic gaskets, but I put sealer on both sides before assembly.

Haha, I see that as 8 little opportunities to nick a seal and cause a vacuum leak...

Ours was an '07 Sierra 5.3 2WD.

Supreme Pizza · July 21, 2018

16 hours ago, Test Driver said:

Haha, I see that as 8 little opportunities to nick a seal and cause a vacuum leak...

Ours was an '07 Sierra 5.3 2WD.

With the 2WD version, I believe that it is much easier to get the engine out without pulling the intake. Not only is there no front diff to hit the oil pan, but it would also be easier to drop the cross-member. As for the intake gaskets leaking, you are correct. Any time you pull the intake off, there is always the risk that it will not seal properly on re-assembly. I painted the intake and the heads (on both sides of the plastic intake gaskets) with gasket sealer just for that reason.

Test Driver · July 25, 2018

Agreed... I don't think I could have left the intake on if this was 4WD.

I only had to lift the engine up to clear the frame "hump" in the center of the engine mounts (so maybe 1 1/2") and then was able to pull the engine straight forward. The plastic shield on the back of the intake just came up against the firewall insulation and I was able to pull it forward from there.

Thanks again! Your pictures were a huge help.