Jump to content

What happened? Blistein or shop issue?


Recommended Posts

So about a year ago I decided to replace OEM front struts with Bilstein after reading all the glowing reviews. Had a local tire/shock/ whatever place order and install.

 

Over the year it seemed to ride fine, but would have an unusual clunk when hitting a bump sometimes.

 

Today when changing oil I noticed this. WTH? Source of noise found!! But why?? Incorrect shock? Additional parts required to make it all jive? ?. Both sides look the same. Bolts have no more thread to tighten nut further. Shorter bolt? Longer (torsion bar) spacer?

 

2009 2wd 1500

 

b8ad8b28107cd5e6e4356d703b75a762.jpg9a8e8e96e513db1847fe41b08528be28.jpg080771dd46928d86abdeb74bdb42206d.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whoa! Simple as that? Didn’t know those things were prone to deteriorate, but I’m ignorant.

Thanks for the enlightenment HoosierZ!

 

It looks to be a simple unbolt the old and stick in the new set ( complete with a bumper on each end of the plastic piece). Any special precautions? Can it be done on ramps or need it be on a lift/jack?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yupp like others mentioned your sway bar end links are shot. From my own experience they can last around 50-70k miles if you have really bad roads around where you live. The style on our front ends lasts a lot longer than the ball joint style links.

 

Just as a tip, when you go to replace them make sure both front tires are under weight and even. Like jack up just the front end of the truck and put jack stands under both lower control arms and lower the truck down on top of it. If the truck is even slightly off level it will be a giant pain in the butt to get the links off since they will be under load and you won't want to unbolt them as the parts can explode and hurt you. Trust me, my dad did his under weight. If you have problems with rust not allowing you to take the nuts off just take a sawsall to them or use an oxy acetylene torch to cut them out. Just make sure you protect your CV boot from damage. And finally, when tightening the bolts up you don't want to do it to the point where the rubber bushings are totally collapsed. You want them to be pretty close to even for spacing from both the top and bottom bushings on the control arm and sway bar. If you over-tighten the link you will notice one bushing is totally collapsed and swelling outwards a ton where the other bushing on the other side is it's normal thickness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yupp like others mentioned your sway bar end links are shot. From my own experience they can last around 50-70k miles if you have really bad roads around where you live. The style on our front ends lasts a lot longer than the ball joint style links.
 
Just as a tip, when you go to replace them make sure both front tires are under weight and even. Like jack up just the front end of the truck and put jack stands under both lower control arms and lower the truck down on top of it. If the truck is even slightly off level it will be a giant pain in the butt to get the links off since they will be under load and you won't want to unbolt them as the parts can explode and hurt you. Trust me, my dad did his under weight. If you have problems with rust not allowing you to take the nuts off just take a sawsall to them or use an oxy acetylene torch to cut them out. Just make sure you protect your CV boot from damage. And finally, when tightening the bolts up you don't want to do it to the point where the rubber bushings are totally collapsed. You want them to be pretty close to even for spacing from both the top and bottom bushings on the control arm and sway bar. If you over-tighten the link you will notice one bushing is totally collapsed and swelling outwards a ton where the other bushing on the other side is it's normal thickness.


Kickass info and thank you!
Not worried about tension removing to old ones as they’re literally flopping around in the holes with 2” of slack. But I hear ya on installing the new ones. Once jack stranded or on ramps, it’ll be interesting to see if the bolts are long enough to start the nuts...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, spikesputnik said:

 


Kickass info and thank you!
Not worried about tension removing to old ones as they’re literally flopping around in the holes with 2” of slack. But I hear ya on installing the new ones. Once jack stranded or on ramps, it’ll be interesting to see if the bolts are long enough to start the nuts...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

You will have no problem. This is a super easy job that anyone can do with a socket set and a wrench set. An impact sure makes quick work if you have really rusty bolts on it but hand tools will work with some swearing and cranking. lol. 

 

I found it easier to take off the tires and have even more room for work instead of trying to work around the tire. Once both are loose depending on the condition of your sway bar bushings your sway bar may want to fall down or will stay in place. While you're at it you might as well double check the bushings for the sway bar and if they are bad go ahead and replace them at the same time while everything is apart. It would make for a easier job for you.

 

Don't worry about driving it with the links being shot. As long as you don't take sharp turns at 40 miles per hour you will be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hate to make you spend money but double check your rear sway bar links as well. They usually last a lot longer than the fronts but it wouldn't hurt to make sure they are still okay. All you need to do is take the truck and rock it side to side as if you are trying to flip it over onto it's side. Sway bar bushings and links will clunk when you rock the truck from one side to the other. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, kickass audio said:

I hate to make you spend money but double check your rear sway bar links as well. They usually last a lot longer than the fronts but it wouldn't hurt to make sure they are still okay. All you need to do is take the truck and rock it side to side as if you are trying to flip it over onto it's side. Sway bar bushings and links will clunk when you rock the truck from one side to the other. 

 

39 minutes ago, spikesputnik said:

Good thought. This truck pulls a boat regularly, and sway or instability is the last thing I need!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless you've added a rear bar, GM doesn't use a rear sway bar on the 1//2 ton trucks.  Only Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/Escalade, and some dually HD trucks.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

Unless you've added a rear bar, GM doesn't use a rear sway bar on the 1//2 ton trucks.  Only Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/Escalade, and some dually HD trucks.

Good to know. I didn't check on mine at all to be 100% sure. I just was thinking of what my old Envoy had with both front and rear bars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I replaced my OEM links with Moogs after it started clanging one morning on the way to work.  I replaced them in my work parking lot with my tire jack and a socket/wrench set.

Edited by CapitalTruck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the input guys.
I did actually replace mine with OEM units( not knowing any better)
Went super smooth and easy up on ramps.
The stock bolts have locktite on the farthest in/ last 1/2” of threads, so I assumed that’s how far the nut was supposed to be tightened down to- other wise why would they do that? Looked fine post install, we’ll see down the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.