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Gnavarre

5.3L afm delete advice with a light lifter tick

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I’m looking for a little direction. I bought a 2011 1500 off my dad who was the original owner. The truck has about 60,000 miles on it and hasn’t been abused. The engine is stock and it’s really just started making noise within the last 5,000 miles. It’s more prevalent when the engine is cold, but was a quart low when I went in for my last oil change (still had 40% oil life left).  Should I leg it out as it sits now? Invest in a programmer bypass or shell out the coin for a delete kit? 

Edited by Gnavarre
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If it's already ticking, a "programmer bypass", Range AFM Disabler, etc will not fix it.  The damage has already started.  Best bet, especially if you plan on keeping the truck any length of time, is to install the AFM delete kit

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Here is what I would do: 

 

Clean the oil screen that is below the oil pressure sender. 

Change the oil and filter (replacing 1 or 2 quarts of oil with 1 or 2 quarts of transmission fluid)

Run the engine for a bit and see if the lifter frees up. Maybe try driving it a bit, and do some compression braking. 

If the lifter frees up, replace the engine oil. 

If the lifter does not free up, maybe add another oil additive, run for a bit, and then change the oil.

 

You can also cut open the old oil filter to see what color metal shaving are in it. 

 

The transmission fluid has a very high detergent content, and often frees up lifters. 

 

If my engine had that issue, and I could not free up the lifter with additives - I would just replace the engine myself with a used unit. 

 

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Thank you. I’ll probably give this a roll and see where it takes me.  It’s a shame that such a low mileage engine is already having problems; especially being so well maintained. 

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What are the thoughts on going with the AFM Disabler if the lifter frees up?  Also, I have a 2016 Yukon with the 6.2 that shuts down to 4, should I consider the Disabler on this?

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A  lifter tick doesn't necessarily mean anything is broken or failing or due to fail.  Of course, that depends on what one means by "tick".  Around the spring of 2011, GM updated the AFM system with improved parts, a cover for the oil return in the oil pan to reduce spray, a revised rocker cover that keeps more oil out of the PCV system and of course a new VLOM and much improved De-Ac lifters.  

 

If I were you, I'd hook up my Tech2 (every man with one of these trucks ought to own one) and drive it looking for misfires and to make sure the AFM components are working right without error.

 

A BlackBear tune or Range device will of course disable AFM but the lifters are still in there and can fail.  So can the non-AFM lifters.  Lately, I've noticed almost as many regular lifters failing as AFM lifters and that is to say, it's not as often as years past.  The tune of course will provide benefits in other ways such as improved transmission performance and usually even better fuel economy than when AFM was active.

Edited by swathdiver
grammar
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Appreciate the feedback.  I’ll try and get a video in the next day or two on a cold start to help to get some better better info for the feedback.  Like I said, it’s only got 60k on it, my dad is in his 60s and I’ve only towed on it “semi” gingerly for a year. 

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Did you take a breaker bar or something to use as a stethoscope and isolate the sound?

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 I have not...just always associated a tick like that with lifters. 

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Hi

I have a 2007 Yukon that only starts ticking when I am parked at idle for 5 to 10 min,,,starts then gets loud. Once I rev the engine or start driving it disappears....Had the whole top of motor redone 3 yrs ago by a dealer.....Broke now and wondering if maybe have someone shut off the afm could possibly stop it being it only happens when I am idling

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Posted (edited)

Easiest/cheapest way to disable AFM is via a Range V8 device.  Plugs into your OBD2 port under the dash, and is easily removable for dealer service visits.  

 

I see where some have told you the damage is already done.  I'd urge you to disable AFM as soon as possible anyway, on all of your vehicles.  My GM dealer's Service Manager says there are 2 kinds of GM AFM vehicles: 1) those that already have AFM problems, and 2) those that will have AFM problems.  

 

You may want to run some AutoRx, Marvel Mystery Oil, or Seafoam in your oil to see if that frees up the stuck AFM lifter, rather than the old-school transmission-fluid-in-the-oil trick.  

 

After that, be sure to use Dexos-rated (GM rating) synthetic oil and change it at the OLM-indicated intervals or sooner, and to use a quality oil filter, but not one that is too restrictive.  I'm using the new Shell Gas Truck oil now (contains a modified additive pack from their diesel oil) [available at WalMart and Autozone] and a Wix 57060 oil filter.  The Shell Gas Truck oil seems to help the AFM problems in my engine (lifter ticking/piston slapping and oil usage) by freeing up stuck AFM lifter(s) and piston oil rings.  

 

Some on here have had success in helping their AFM problems by running a catch can in their PCV system, also.  

 

Due to $ concerns, I'm running mine as described above until if and when it blows up.  It makes engine noise at startup, but I have most of the oil usage problem solved.  Then I'll have the engine rebuilt with an AFM delete kit from Texas Speed or another such company.  

Edited by MaverickZ71
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Techron is the industry standard for detergent additives and is sold to many oil companies who rebrand it in name and volume.

The catchcan is a device used to control the effects of high blowbye gases (stuck rings). It'll have minimal impact on the afm lifters as the oil must being pushed through the cam would have normally just been burned off.

The ATF shade mechanic method was used as ATF has high dispersant levels (acts like detergent) long before detergents were added to oil. The current best thoughts are mixtures of ATF with mystery, seafoam, b12 etc. The cleaners break down the buildup and atf helps to flush it away allowing oil to replace.

If you have pending AFM problems, you might buy some time with a oil additives and good filter/change frequency. But if the lifter/cylinder is no longer at spec, you are due sooner or later.

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