By Mountain boy
I recently installed the factory Kicker sub woofer to my Bose system, it is a big improvement but something is weird, I have to set the bass at -12 on the tone and the mid and treble at +7. I looked at the sound using pink noise and a real time analyzer. Those numbers got me closest to a flat response curve. I have done some checking on line and as soon as you install any kind of sub especially aftermarket the ANR starts fighting you. Amazon has a cable that you connect to the amp to shutdown ANR, just got to pull the console to find the amp and see if it will work with the 19. System. I understand what ANR does studied wave cancelation in high school physics. I know enough to know I don’t want it. Anyone adding a sub to Bose might want to check into this.
I just finished adding an amp and sub to my 2019 Sierra double cab and wanted to share some info to help others.
Power--Connected to the positive post. I backed off the clamp bolt just far enough to insert a connector (used a standard ring connector and clipped the top, making it into a C).
There is a rubber grommet on the firewall directly behind the battery that had an unused accessory nipple. I snipped off the end and 4 gauge cable slid through it perfectly.
Remote on--fuse box is on the passenger side end of the dash. I used a test light to find a fuse slot that powers up with ignition. Run the wire down to the power cable you just pulled through the firewall. There is a ton of room to run these down the passenger side and there is no need to remove the center column plastic as the cables will run underneath with no issue. If you need more room to work, there are are a couple caps that cover the stock wire loom that can be removed. Two bolts close to the door seal and two more just under the carpet. I used a wire coat hanger, fed it from the rear seat to the front, and taped the two wires to it so i could pull them straight back. It worked great.
Line out convertor---I found a wiring pdf doc for my 2019 which included the amp and speaker plugs with color codes. Open the wire loom that you just ran your power lines next to and look for the stock subwoofer speaker wires. The colors are, positive + was blue/grey (almost looked pinkish grey) and the negative - was green/black. These two wires will be twisted together like other speaker wires. I was thinking about using the front door speakers if I did not find the sub wires but this hookup sounds nice so I plan to stick with it. This only supplies the convertor with 1 input so I used a y plug on the live rca out of the convertor so my amp received both coaxial feeds to the input .
Ground-- I removed a rear seat bolt, ground off the paint underneath and tightened it back down on my ground connector.
Extras---I removed the stock jack and placed it in my bed storage box so I could use the brackets fixed bolts to attach my accessory board. I then attached my capacitor and power block to the secured board.
I am sure there are things I could have done better so feel free to respond with better ways or what worked for you. I am by far no expert but have been doing my own backyard installs for almost 30 years and they have never failed me. I just wanted to give people some tips in case they think the job is way too hard because it was actually quite easy and sounds fantastic (well, as good as stock audio can sound with some extra thump).
I have an AT4 with the Bose sound system and there is no reason for me to ever go above 1/3 volume. Maybe I will go to half if I’m all by myself.....
I thought it it had something to do with my phone being connected to Bluetooth but nope, switched to radio and same thing.
Ive never turned it to full volume, worried the speakers might blow.
anyone else notice this?
I currently have the little 4” screen in my truck and was wondering if anyone has tried to go get an 8” screen and HMI out of a and junkyard truck and plug it up. Would that work? I dont feel like paying $1500 for something to still be stock
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