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Canceling Extended Warranty Coverage


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Hi All,

 

I am debating whether or not to cancel my extended warranty I purchased 2 1/2 years ago when I bought my 2016 Silverado LT new.  Obviously, the warranty overlaps everything the manufacture is offering for the first 3 years, 36,000 miles etc.  My ext warranty is 60 months (5 yrs), 100,000 miles. 

 

Covers everything Engine, Transmission/transaxcel, transfer case, electrical, Fuel, Interior, Exterior, steering, suspension, cooling, drive axle, brakes, AC/heating, and additional benefits like lockout, tow, rental coverage, trip interruption, gas supply and jump starts etc.  

 

The question is, I paid $2998 for it, but seeing that nearly I have 5 months left before my MFG warranty expires on the 3yr/36k, would it be worth it just to cut my losses now or keep it?  I would get a little under half back, (roughly $1300-$1400).   I know the warranty only "covers" 2 years, since the first 3 is all MFG.  So essentially I'm paying $1500 a year for 2 yrs for this thing.

 

I haven't had any "major" issue, which I am mainly concern about the transmission or engine just needing a replacement/rebuild that would cost in the THOUSANDS, the other parts I can do on my own and I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do my own auto repair.

 

If it were you, would you cancel it? Do I need to factor the % of risk into this truck?  This is my first owning a domestic GM / Chevy.

 

BTW, my truck only has 25,000 miles on her.  

 

Thanks in advance,

Johnny

Edited by phabejhmoob
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I compared this coverage to my co-workers (he bought a Ford F150 last year new), I know it's not a apples to apples comparison but his warranty covers 7yrs, 70k for $2700 with drive train/transmission as well.  So my warranty is 5 yrs 100k, are they betting it to crash and burn before the 5 yrs is over? 

 

I would feel dumb if I didn't cancel this at the end of the 5 yr term, just 2 more years to go.  Honestly I think I drive less than 9k a year now, so I would only be in the mid 30k range by the time this warranty expires.

 

I could use that money else where like build a big shed or a trailer or boat.. hmm

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If I could go back in time, I wouldn't have bought my extended warranty. But you and I are both so far in now, that I don't think it pays to cancel it now. Odds are better that you will use it the older the vehicle gets.

18 minutes ago, phabejhmoob said:

Covers everything Engine, Transmission/transaxcel, transfer case, electrical, Fuel, Interior, Exterior, steering, suspension, cooling, drive axle, brakes, AC/heating, and additional benefits like lockout, tow, rental coverage, trip interruption, gas supply and jump starts etc.  

Also, you better go back and re-read the list of everything that is excluded. That way when you try to get something covered by your plan that covers "everything" you won't be disappointed later.

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Yes I'm reading the exclusions.

I'm also considering cancellation because I have to pay $100 deductable with each claim. It's not going to stop costing me money.

If I could go back in time, I wouldn't have bought my extended warranty. But you and I are both so far in now, that I don't think it pays to cancel it now. Odds are better that you will use it the older the vehicle gets.
Also, you better go back and re-read the list of everything that is excluded. That way when you try to get something covered by your plan that covers "everything" you won't be disappointed later.
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Those selling warranty have t make a profit, or they won't still be in business.

 

This means that 'on average' the cost of the warranty will be more than the amount it pays out.

 

 

Obviously some buyers will save money by having the warranty, but on average buyers will be out of pocket. 

 

IMHO it's better to self-finance an extended warranty program. 

Put the purchase cost in a separate account.  Do that with every vehicle.  

 

We've run at least 2 vehicles continuously since 1980.  Both new and used.  Many kept for 7+ years (unlike the last couple).  

Yes there have been repairs. None have been significant enough cost that I would have been money ahead with one of the extended warranty packages.

 

YMMV

 

Do what makes you sleep at night. 

 

 

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52 minutes ago, redwngr said:

Those selling warranty have t make a profit, or they won't still be in business.

 

This means that 'on average' the cost of the warranty will be more than the amount it pays out.

 

 

Obviously some buyers will save money by having the warranty, but on average buyers will be out of pocket. 

 

IMHO it's better to self-finance an extended warranty program. 

Put the purchase cost in a separate account.  Do that with every vehicle.  

 

We've run at least 2 vehicles continuously since 1980.  Both new and used.  Many kept for 7+ years (unlike the last couple).  

Yes there have been repairs. None have been significant enough cost that I would have been money ahead with one of the extended warranty packages.

 

YMMV

 

Do what makes you sleep at night. 

 

 

Thanks, good tip.  I was wondering about the same, I'm thinking of doing that to my tire replacement as well.  Add money into a separate pot so when new tires are needed, It won't be sticker shock.  $700-$800 is not chump change for new tires by no means.

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Nobody can predict whether or not you will get value of one particular warranty contract.   All they can do is offer anecdotal stories and opinions which have no predictive value.

 

Over a lifetime of buying cars and trucks it generally makes sense to skip the extended warranty and pocket the money.    In the long run you will almost certainly come ahead, with only temporary setbacks along the way.

 

If you are financially solid my advice is to cancel the warranty and start saving now.   

 

If you are not on solid ground - if a large repair bill would ruin your life - then keep the warranty.   And consider a less expensive vehicle next time; one that you can afford to pay off during the factory warranty period.

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19 minutes ago, don67 said:

Nobody can predict whether or not you will get value of one particular warranty contract.   All they can do is offer anecdotal stories and opinions which have no predictive value.

 

Over a lifetime of buying cars and trucks it generally makes sense to skip the extended warranty and pocket the money.    In the long run you will almost certainly come ahead, with only temporary setbacks along the way.

 

If you are financially solid my advice is to cancel the warranty and start saving now.   

 

If you are not on solid ground - if a large repair bill would ruin your life - then keep the warranty.   And consider a less expensive vehicle next time; one that you can afford to pay off during the factory warranty period.

Financially I'm solid, no issues with money in the bank or CC if needed.  I just don't want to waste the money on "if".  Even if I saved the remaining, it would be around $1548 after my calculations.

 

60 months, used 31 months so far, 29 months remaining at $49.97/month.  If pro-rated refund, I should be pretty well off.  

 

I honestly do not like the fact I will have to pay $100 deductible each claim, it's not a $0 deductible claim.  I have a few working mechanic friends (not home mechanic) that I use when it comes to complicated stuff that I cannot do and their "donation" rate is way cheaper than any shop.   I'm considering that as well.

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Its rather interesting how the dealers try to get you to buy into the extended warranties. When i bought my truck they asked me if i wanted it and they said it would only add 50 bucks to my monthly payment. Of course i said no but he kept pestering me about it until he finally said "what can you give me for it cmon" Jokingly i said 4 bucks a month. and he agreed. I was like WTF just happened here!? So i guess for roughly 300 bucks to have an extended bumper to bumper warranty (minus the 100 deductable) would be worth it. If i would of had to pay 2 or 3 grand i would have never agreed to that and would for sure cancel it once i paid the truck off.

 

One thing worth noting is i believe they prorate that warranty so if you've payed for it in full and you elect to cancel it, they owe you a refund for what ever life you have left on it...

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7 minutes ago, zo6freak said:

Its rather interesting how the dealers try to get you to buy into the extended warranties. When i bought my truck they asked me if i wanted it and they said it would only add 50 bucks to my monthly payment. Of course i said no but he kept pestering me about it until he finally said "what can you give me for it cmon" Jokingly i said 4 bucks a month. and he agreed. I was like WTF just happened here!? So i guess for roughly 300 bucks to have an extended bumper to bumper warranty (minus the 100 deductable) would be worth it. If i would of had to pay 2 or 3 grand i would have never agreed to that and would for sure cancel it once i paid the truck off.

 

One thing worth noting is i believe they prorate that warranty so if you've payed for it in full and you elect to cancel it, they owe you a refund for what ever life you have left on it...

Yes, for me they said.. we'll that's how we can get you that % rate.  I really thought for a while and said, this is my first real American made vehicle so I would consider buying the warranty for peace of mind.  I paid off the truck a year later.

 

Later I called my friends/family who have bought Chevy trucks and SUV's and they didn't appear to have any issues with their vehicles.  My dad had always had GMC or Oldsmobile back in the late 80's, my mom also had an Astro Van.  No real issues either.  Me, I've always owned Japanese vehicles cause I liked their designs and being shorter in stature, it fit me better.  If this truck didn't have the adjustable peddles, I may not have bought it LOL.  O well, you live and learn.

 

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I guess i'll go in this weekend and get'er done.  The dealership will need the mileage to prorate it, I bet they will try to talk me out of it.  I guess if it weren't for the $100 deductible I wouldn't mind.  I have to confirm with the wife first. I'm sure she'll just say it's up to me.  Throw that money into a repair pot.

 

Here's whats covered

 

Maximum WRAP Plan 4 – 12 New Only

 

The Dealer says it also covers anything factory (thus the "WRAP") and continues it until full term 60/100,000. 

 

4. Air Conditioning Components: (Factory Installed Units Only) Air conditioner compressor, clutch, clutch pulley, clutch coils, electrical HVAC actuators, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, accumulator, orifice, idler pulley, bearing, ducts and outlet tubes, blower motor, temperature control programmer, power module, high/low cut off switch and receiver/dryer.

 

5. Heating/Cooling Components: Water pump, thermostat, radiator and mounting brackets. Fan shroud and fan controller module. The coolant recovery unit. Heater ducts and cabins. Blower motor, heater core, fan, fan clutch and fan motor.

 

6. Electrical Components: Starter, alternator, voltage regulator, distributor, ignition coil, wiring harness, solenoids, ignition switch, lock and tumbler, brake light switch, wiper motors, horn button and horns, driver’s side (steering wheel) airbag, manually operated switches, power door locks, window motors and regulators, mirror motors and controls, power antenna motor, power seat motor; cruise control transducer, engagement switch and servo; turn signal switch, wiper delay switch and controller, wiper/washer controller and pump, power sunroof / convertible top motor and switches, relays, gauges, electronic level control module, instrument cluster, electronic mixture control unit and sensors, electronic anti-detonation sensors, keyless entry system, and electronic anti-theft device (factory installed only).

 

7. Braking Components: Master cylinder, power assist booster, wheel cylinders, combination valves, metal hydraulic lines and fittings, disc calipers, backing plates, springs, clips, retainers, and electronic anti-lock brake system (ABS) and relays. Parking brake linkage and cables, and rear actuators. 8. Suspension Components: Struts, mounting plates, retainer and bushing, upper and lower control arms, control arm shafts and bushings. The upper and lower ball joints, steering knuckles, wheel bearings, stabilizer shaft, linkage and bushings, torsion bars, spindle and spindle supports, radius arm and bushings, coil and leaf springs, strut bar and bushing.

 

9. Steering Components: Gear housing and all internally lubricated parts, including the rack and pinion, power steering pump, main and intermediate shafts. Couplings, cooler and cooler lines, power cylinder and pitman arm. Idler arm, tie rod and tie rod ends and control valve.

 

10. Fuel Delivery Components: Fuel pump, fuel tank, fuel tank sending unit, metal fuel lines, fuel injectors, carburetor, throttle body, fuel distributor, fuel injection pump, diesel injectors, diesel injector pump and vacuum booster pump. 11. Seals and Gaskets Coverage: Seals and gaskets are covered for all listed parts, provided the VEHICLE has 95,000 miles or

 

12. Maximum Plan covers all parts of the VEHICLE except for items a-c listed below. Maximum Wrap Plan covers all parts for the VEHICLE except the Engine, Transmission and Drive Axle Components and the following items. a.) Parts listed under the Exclusions From Coverage Section of this AGREEMENT; b.) Parts covered under the manufacturer’s warranty, special policy, or recall; and c.) Parts listed in the Conversion Truck/Van Package or Hybrid Electric Vehicle Package unless elected on YOUR DECLARATION PAGE. ADDITIONAL BENEFITS 1. Substitute Transportation: In the event of a BREAKDOWN covered by this AGREEMENT, WE will pay on behalf of or reimburse YOU for receipted expenses to rent a replacement vehicle from a licensed rental agency, or for alternate public transportation while the VEHICLE is at a licensed REPAIR FACILITY in accordance with the terms and provisions of this AGREEMENT. We will pay the actual expenses, not to exceed forty dollars ($40) per day for 8 days. Total benefit shall not exceed three hundred twenty ($320) for each repair visit. You must incur this expense between the date of the BREAKDOWN and the date the repairs to the covered parts are completed. 2. Trip Interruption: In the event that a BREAKDOWN occurs more than one hundred (100) miles from YOUR home and results in a REPAIR FACILITY keeping the VEHICLE overnight, WE will reimburse YOU for receipted motel and restaurant expenses, up to ninety ($90) per day for a maximum of three (3) days. Total benefit shall not exceed two hundred seventy ($270) per occurrence. Prior authorization is not required for Trip Interruption benefits.

 

 

24-HOUR ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE BENEFITS (This is all covered by my Insurance! Double coverage for extra $$$)

 

1. Towing and Wrecker Service: In the event the VEHICLE becomes disabled due to a covered mechanical failure which renders the VEHICLE inoperable, WE will arrange to have the VEHICLE transported to the nearest qualified repair service facility and will pay up to a maximum of one hundred dollars ($100) per occurrence for the transportation expenses.

 

2. Flat Tire Change: In the event of a flat tire on the VEHICLE, WE will arrange for a service provider to mount an inflated spare tire provided by YOU and will pay up to a maximum of one hundred dollars ($100) per occurrence for the flat tire service call.

 

3. Emergency Gas Delivery Service: In the event the VEHICLE runs out of gas, WE will arrange for a service provider to deliver an emergency supply of gas for the VEHICLE and will pay up to a maximum of one hundred dollars ($100) per occurrence for the gas delivery service, excluding the cost of the gas. YOU are responsible for the cost of the emergency supply of gas at the time of delivery.

 

4. Battery Jump Service: In the event the VEHICLE will not crank due to a weak or “run-down” battery, WE will arrange for a service provider to boost or jump-start the battery and will pay up to a maximum of one hundred dollars ($100) per occurrence for the battery jump service.

 

5. Key Lockout Service: In the event the keys for the VEHICLE are lost, broken or accidentally locked in the VEHICLE, or the VEHICLE has a frozen lock, WE will arrange for a service provider to unlock the VEHICLE and will pay up to a maximum of one hundred dollars ($100) per occurrence for the locksmith service, excluding the cost of replacement keys. YOU are responsible for the cost of any replacement keys at the time of service.

 

Note: The 24-Hour Roadside Assistance services are provided through Saferide Motor Club, Inc. 4287 Beltline Road, Box #198, Addison, TX 75001 and their toll free number is 1-877-211-8136. Please refer to the Guide to Filing a Claim section for claims instructions.

 

In addition, I also have this

 

CUSTOMER CARE ONE (5 visits) includes:

5 Engine Oil Change/Oil Filter Replacement

5 Fluids Check and Replenish

2 Rotate Tires/Adjust Air Pressure

2 Brake Inspection

 

EXCLUSIONS

EXCLUSIONS FROM COVERAGE THIS AGREEMENT DOES NOT PROVIDE COVERAGE:

 

1. FOR REPAIR COSTS OR EXPENSES REPORTED OR MADE AFTER THE EXPIRATION OF THE TERM OF THIS AGREEMENT OR NOT AUTHORIZED BY THE ADMINISTRATOR;

 

2. FOR REPAIR COSTS OR EXPENSES IF THE ODOMETER OF THE VEHICLE BREAKS OR BECOMES INOPERABLE OR UNRELIABLE FOR ANY REASON AND ODOMETER REPAIRS WERE NOT MADE IMMEDIATELY AT THE TIME OF FAILURE, OR IF THE ODOMETER HAS BEEN TAMPERED WITH, DISCONNECTED OR ALTERED IN ANY WAY;

 

3. FOR REPAIR COSTS OR EXPENSES IF THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN USED FOR THE FOLLOWING PURPOSES, REGARDLESS OF WHETHER THE BUSINESS USE OPTION WAS PURCHASED: POLICE OR LAW ENFORCEMENT SERVICES, FIRE, AMBULANCE OR EMERGENCY SERVICES, TAXI, LIMOUSINE OR SHUTTLE SERVICES, PICK-UP AND/OR DELIVERY OPERATIONS, RACING, NEWSPAPER OR MAIL DELIVERY, RENTAL SERVICES, SECURITY SERVICES, SNOW REMOVAL OR SNOW PLOWING, CABLE OR LINE INSTALLATION, OR HAULING FOR HIRE, OR IF THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN USED FOR HAULING TRAILERS IN EXCESS OF THE MANUFACTURER’S RATED CAPACITY OR HAULING TRAILERS WITHOUT SUITABLE EQUIPMENT, OR IF THE REQUIREMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURER’S MANUAL FOR VEHICLES USED TO PULL TRAILERS ARE NOT FOLLOWED;

 

4. FOR REPAIR COSTS OR EXPENSES IF YOU CANNOT PROVIDE TO THE ADMINISTRATOR ACCURATE RECORDS PROVING THAT YOU HAVE MAINTAINED THE VEHICLE IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE MANUFACTURER’S SPECIFICATIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS, OR IF ANY ALTERATIONS HAVE BEEN MADE TO THE VEHICLE INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, THE USE OF OVERSIZED TIRES, INSTALLATION OF HEADER PIPES OR LIFT KITS (SURCHARGE REQUIRED), AND REMOVAL OF ANY EMISSION CONTROL PARTS SYSTEM;

 

5. FOR REPAIR COSTS OR EXPENSES IF THE VEHICLE IS STILL IN THE MANUFACTURER’S WARRANTY PERIOD OR COVERED BY A RECALL OR SPECIAL POLICY BY THE MANUFACTURER REGARDLESS OF THEIR ABILITY TO PAY FOR REPAIR;

 

6. FOR REPAIR COSTS OR EXPENSES IF THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN ABUSED OR NEGLECTED.

 

7. FOR ANY ACCIDENTAL LOSS OR DAMAGE RESULTING FROM COLLISION OR UPSET, FALLING MISSILES OR OBJECTS, FIRE, THEFT, ARSON, EXPLOSION, LIGHTNING, EARTHQUAKE, WINDSTORM, ICE, HAIL, WATER, FLOOD, MALICIOUS MISCHIEF, VANDALISM, RIOT OR CIVIL COMMOTION, OR IF THE VEHICLE IS A TOTAL LOSS, HAS BEEN REPOSSESSED OR IS THE SUBJECT OF A REPOSSESSION ACTION, OR FROM ANY OTHER CAUSE WHATSOEVER, EXCEPT AS OUTLINED IN THIS AGREEMENT;

 

8. FOR LIABILITIES FOR DAMAGE TO PROPERTY OR FOR INJURY TO OR DEATH OF ANY PERSON ARISING OUT OF THE OPERATION, REPAIR, MAINTENANCE OR USE OF THE VEHICLE, WHETHER OR NOT RELATED TO ANY COVERED PART, OR FOR CONSEQUENTIAL LOSSES OR DAMAGE, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, PROPERTY DAMAGE, LOSS OF USE OF THE VEHICLE, LOSS OF TIME, INCONVENIENCE, OR COMMERCIAL LOSS RESULTING FROM THE OPERATION, MAINTENANCE AND/OR USE OF THE VEHICLE, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY COVERED HEREIN;

 

9. FOR ANY MECHANICAL PROBLEMS THAT EXISTED PRIOR TO THE PURCHASE OF THIS AGREEMENT OR BREAKDOWNS CAUSED BY THE FAILURE OF THE AGREEMENT HOLDER TO MAINTAIN PROPER QUALITIES OR LEVELS OF COOLANTS OR LUBRICANTS; or for any MECHANICAL PROBLEMS RELATED TO FUELS EXCEED 10% ETHANOL AND THE ENGINE IS NOT RATED FOR THIS FUEL MIXTURE

 

10. FOR REPAIRS TO ANY PART THAT HAS NOT SUFFERED A BREAKDOWN, OR IF THE WEAR ON THE PART HAS NOT EXCEEDED THE PUBLISHED FIELD TOLERANCE ALLOWED BY THE MANUFACTURER, OR FOR REPAIR COSTS NOT NECESSARY TO CORRECT A BREAKDOWN, OR FOR DAMAGES OR ANY LOSS RESULTING FROM FAULTY OR NEGLIGENT AUTO REPAIR WORK OR FROM THE INSTALLATION OF DEFECTIVE PARTS;

 

11. FOR ANY REPAIR COSTS DUE TO CONTAMINATION OF ANY KIND, CORROSION, RUST, DETONATION, PRE-IGNITION, CARBON BUILD UP, SLUDGE, ELECTROLYSIS, RATTLES, WATER LEAKS, WIND NOISES; PWCPACOR0214-001 8

 

12. FOR ANY OF THE FOLLOWING PARTS: MANUAL CLUTCH ASSEMBLY; GLOW PLUGS; BRAKE PADS, SHOES, ROTORS AND DRUMS; WIPER BLADES, WIPER ARMS; ALL BATTERIES, BATTERY CABLES; AIR FILTERS, OIL FILTER, COOLANTS AND FLUIDS, IF NOT IN CONNECTION WITH A COVERED REPAIR; SPARK PLUGS; PLUG WIRES; EGR VALVE; DRIVE BELTS; RUBBER HOSES; EXHAUST PIPES; CATALYTIC CONVERTERS; MUFFLERS; RESONATORS; SHOCK ABSORBERS; TIRES, WHEELS, SEALED BEAMS; LIGHT BULBS AND LENSES; NON-FACTORY INSTALLED AUDIO SYSTEMS AND DISC PLAYERS; PLASMA TELEVISIONS; CAR PHONES; CELLULAR, SATELLITE, OR MICROWAVE COMMUNICATON DEVICES; BRIGHT METAL PARTS; RUBBER MOLDINGS; WEATHER STRIPS; METAL, GLASS OR PLASTIC TRIM; UPHOLSTERY; CARPET; ASH TRAYS; CUP HOLDERS; ANY NON-FACTORY INSTALLED PARTS; CONVERTIBLE TOP, FRAME AND MECHANISM; SUNROOF TRACK AND MECHANISM; SAFETY RESTRAINT SYSTEMS (SEAT BELTS AND AIR BAGS, EXCEPT STEERING WHEEL) OR PART THEREOF; OR

 

13. CHARGES FOR: SHOP SUPPLIES, FREIGHT, HAZARDOUS WASTE DISPOSAL, WHEEL ALIGNMENT AND TIRE BALANCE.

Edited by phabejhmoob
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This is what the Dealer says is also covered

 

1. Engine Components: Engine block and cylinder head(s), and all internally lubricated parts, including pistons, pins, rings, connecting rods and bearings, crankshaft and main bearings, camshaft, followers and cam bearings. Push rods, valves, springs, guides, seats, lifters, rocker arms, shafts, bushings, core plugs, timing gear, timing chain or timing belt, belt tensioners and retainers. Eccentric shaft, oil pump, oil cooler and oil cooler lines. Also covered are the following: water pump, fuel pump, oil pan, intake and exhaust manifolds, engine mounts and cushions, engine torque strut, timing cover, valve cover(s), harmonic balancer, flywheel (flex plate) and flywheel ring gear, vacuum pump, dipstick and tube, all pulleys, and all internally lubricated parts of the turbo charger/supercharger, including waste gate, vanes, shafts, and bearings. The turbocharger / supercharger housing is covered only if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated part.

 

2. Transmission Components: (Automatic or Manual) Transmission case, transfer case, torque converter, and all internally lubricated parts contained within the cases. Filler tube and dipstick. Vacuum modulator, internal linkage and transmission mounts.

 

3. Drive Axle Components: (Front & Rear) Differential housing, trans-axle housing, final drive housing, and all the internally lubricated parts of the foregoing. Axle shafts, constant velocity joints, universal joints, drive shafts, locking hubs, hub bearings, locking rings, supports, retainers and bearings

 

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Edited by phabejhmoob
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I would not own a new truck without a extended warranty. If one of the air condition controllers goes bad and they have to remove the dash to get to it, $2,000.00 repair plus the cost of a rental car if needed. That is just one example. These new vehicles are very expensive to work on.

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If it were me I would cancel it and get my money back. I assume you purchased the vehicle new and have performed all regular maintenance. If gremlins haven’t reared their head yet, and you’ve taken care of the vehicle, I think an issue large enough to justify the expense is unlikely.

When I purchased my vehicle used with 65k miles, I made an offer and insisted on a bumper to bumper warranty to be included. This is mainly because the history of the vehicle was unknown. 9 months later my AC condenser cracked and the $1068 repair was covered (less my deductable of $200).

If I had purchased the vehicle new, I wouldn’t pay out of pocket for an extended warranty and would simply save that money for any possible future expenses.

If you are handy and don’t mind working on your own vehicle, purchasing a set of the helm service manuals would probably save you a bunch on routine maintenance and repairs that are no longer covered under the factory bumper to bumper warranty.

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