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3.5-4.5" lift


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Here is a pic of my old 2015 that had a leveling kit and body lift.  It had a BDS 2" leveling kit and Zone 1.5" body lift and Readylift 3" blocks in rear with shock extensions.  Wheels and tires were stock 20".  It was a lease truck and dealership nor GM had any issues when I turned it in with the lift installed.

2015gmc1.jpg

Edited by dougwtx
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36 minutes ago, dougwtx said:

Here is a pic of my old 2015 that had a leveling kit and body lift.  It had a BDS 2" leveling kit and Zone 1.5" body lift and Readylift 3" blocks in rear with shock extensions.  Wheels and tires were stock 20".  It was a lease truck and dealership nor GM had any issues when I turned it in with the lift installed.

2015gmc1.jpg

That looks good. Do you see a gap under the bed and the frame??

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4 minutes ago, contenderv07 said:

That looks good. Do you see a gap under the bed and the frame??

Yes sir.  From the rear wheel wells, if you are fairly close up, you can see the gap.  Some company made liners to fill cover the gap but I never bothered purchasing them.  Just wanted to let you see what a leveling kit and body lift looked like if you were interested in going that route.

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Any real suspension lift such as Zone, BDS, Fabtech, CST, and Procomp are going to require cutting the rear lower control arm pocket to allow clearance for the front differential to be dropped. That piece that you cut off,  if saved can be welded back in to return to stock.

 I removed the 4" CST lift from my 2013 GMC and had that piece welded back in so I could return it to stock before I sold it.

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19 minutes ago, contenderv07 said:

well let me ask this, since I have the stamped UCA's is it almost a given, if I want to run bigger tires, I need to get different UCA's or a kit that has them??

Not necessarily, that's only if you plan to keep the factory wheels.  If you go to a wheel with a more negative offset, or add spacers, you won't rub on the factory control arms.

Edited by pewterliftedz
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1 hour ago, contenderv07 said:

the all terrain 20's s-l300.jpg.dbf21ae47956ac6f23ca98c1664823e1.jpg

Same wheels that came on my truck, those have the pockets in the back so you can run as small as a 1.25" BORA adapter.  That's what I would do, and get some bigger tires of your choice.  That's what my plan was, I had a set of 305/55r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on my wheels, but sadly they got stolen off my truck before I got a chance.

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3 minutes ago, pewterliftedz said:

Same wheels that came on my truck, those have the pockets in the back so you can run as small as a 1.25" BORA adapter.  That's what I would do, and get some bigger tires of your choice.  That's what my plan was, I had a set of 305/55r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on my wheels, but sadly they got stolen off my truck before I got a chance.

awesome thanks, so getting those spacers would keep me from having to get different UCA's?? 

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8 minutes ago, contenderv07 said:

awesome thanks, so getting those spacers would keep me from having to get different UCA's?? 

Yes, but it can also change your tire selection.  The more spacer or negative offset you add, the more likely you are to rub on the fender liner.  It shouldn't be too bad with a 1.25" Spacer and something like a 285/60r20, not sure what tire size you were wanting.

Edited by pewterliftedz
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1 hour ago, pewterliftedz said:

Yes, but it can also change your tire selection.  The more spacer or negative offset you add, the more likely you are to rub on the fender liner.  It shouldn't be too bad with a 1.25" Spacer and something like a 285/60r20, not sure what tire size you were wanting.

yea this is all dependent on the lift I finally decide with. If I go with something like a zone 4.5 I'll go with a 35x11.5. If I go with something lower, I'd like to get to a 295/60

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