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By jbarry14
96 Chevy K3500 with the 5.7l It has about 215K miles. I am trying to diagnose a fuel pressure issue. My truck first started to run rough like it had a miss. Check engine light came on. I had codes for both banks being lean. I cleaned the MAF sensor with no change. I checked for vacuum leaks. I hooked up a scan tool and checked the LTFT for both banks. They are both at 25%. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the rail test port. Key on engine off it is around 45. As soon as the pump shuts off it almost instantly drops to 0. I am trying to figure out if I have a bad check valve in my fuel pump or if my FPR is bad. Before this all started, I noticed a loss in power. It could barely get a trailer up the slightest incline. I was trying to see if I could find out the difference in the speed of fuel pressure dropping when the check valve in the pump is bad and when the FPR is bad, to try and isolate the issue.
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By Gregg C
I was wondering if there is someone that can help me with this truck. It has a rebuilt s&j engine (5.7l 4 bolt main) that I have been fighting to get running well. It has had all new sensors put on it except one thing to note is I received a bad engine with a cracked block installed the first go around and it was ran for a day to work and then next day back to the mechanic so it may have affected the new o2 sensor put on the good engine but I'm not sure. Well this 2nd engine runs really rough when its cold out and the colder it is, the rougher it runs. It takes like 5 to 8 revolutions before it starts and it runs good for about 2 seconds then it just hits the floor, back firing and missing like crazy. Another thing it does is once in a while the volts will drop from 14 down to 10 like the alternator stops working for 1 second then it jumps right back up. I've tried 3 different alternators and nothing seems to change it. It's like something gets turned on for 1 second thats shorted to ground and then shuts right back off but I'm not sure what it could be or if it has anything to do with the other issue. I've put new plugs and wires, rebuilt throttle body with injectors, map sensor, distributor, spark control module, knock sensor with pigtail, ignition coil, fuel pump, both coolant sensors, egr valve and solenoid, iac valve with pigtail, ecm and 3 different alternators. It really lacks power when it is warmed up and its getting bad gas mileage compared to the original engine. I used a red devil river aldl cable and tuner pro rt to pull some data off of it but I need help figuring out why the blm is so low. Is it because of my o2 sensor or what could it be? What could be causing my voltage to drop off like that? I can't get it to drop voltage with the tuner pro connected either. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am new to this tuner pro data stuff. Thanks!
truck2.xdl
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By Austin Orth
I have a 1999 K2500 regular cab with the 5.7 and 4L80E transmission, 285s for tires. I got 14mpg bringing it home, which was about 250 miles. I've been driving it around and I'm getting about 9-10mpg. I have read that an exhaust, cold air intake, and new 02 sensors. I plan on replacing all of the 02 sensors so I was wandering how many upstream and downstream sensors there? And is there any other ways to improve my fuel economy? Thanks
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By Noah E
I purchased a 1995 Chevy K1500 Silverado 5.7 V8 350 Z71 as a project a couple months back. I noticed that the lights and a couple of the gauges don't work on the cluster. The Tach and Speedometer work, the odometer and temp. gauge don't. The rest I am unsure of. When I took the instrument cluster out, I noticed that it came out of a 97' C/K 1500 Truck. I've heard that the 95's were a switchover year and the only year that had the one specific cluster. My question is will the 97 cluster work if I got the parts to fix it, or will I need to go ahead and find one for the 95? My guess would be to find one that came off another 95 since it was a TBI engine and the 97's had the Vortec engines. I just want to be sure before I spend money on a whole cluster. Help will be appreciated! Thanks!
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By MikeT2582
4L60-E transmission whining only when vehicle is in motion. Mostly starts past 30mph. Transmission is off the Suburban now. Whining still present when input shaft is turned.
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