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By AaronandAlicia Dailey
OK everyone I want to give thanks ahead for any advice and help.
Truck in question= 2003 Chevy Suburban Z71, 5.3 L Transmission= 4L60-E
So the story started when I was going down the road at about 50mph in cruise control, when suddenly I heard the engine begin to rev up. I hit the brake to take it out of cruise control and the engine stopped revving up. Apparently I lost transmission of power from the engine to the wheels because no matter what gear I put it into now, I get no movement from the vehicle. No reverse and no D1, 2 or 3. When I put the vehicle in park and attempt to push the vehicle it will not roll. When placed in any other gear I can then roll the vehicle freely.
Before this happened: Since owning the vehicle 4x4 has always been shifty.....hehehe...sorry couldnt help it. I have the model where there are 4 buttons with lights the buttons are located left hand of dash near the turn signal. When I first got the truck sometimes it seemed like it didnt want to switch between gears. for example I would have to hit the button multiple times before it would switch and even then it seemed like it hadnt really switched but the lights would indicate it had. Most of the time the light for the button I selected would flash multiple times and then return to previous selection. Often times after turning the vehicle off and then returning to vehicle to go somewhere I would find that the light has switched back to a gear that it wasnt in when i left the vehicle. It seems to favor 4x4hi. As of lately I havent been able to get the lights to switch at all. It seems to be stuck in 4hi permanently.
I have tested the 4wd switch and its fine.
I tried unhooking battery for half hour with lights on to reset PC. I then reconnected battery cable and turned vehicle on but not start it. Then I pulled a bunch of fuses and plugged them back in. ( seen it in a video and the guy said it was supposed to wake up the TCCM) Well that did nothing.
I have the truck off of all wheels right now and was trying to figure out if the transfer case is stuck in neutral. With the truck in drive as I turn the rear draft the front moves also. I am assuming that means it is in 4wd. But should I have someone hold the front drive shaft while i turn the rear drive shaft to confirm its not just from friction or something.
I actually have the front drive shaft partly out right now in an attempt to get at and remove the shift motor and manually put the transfer case into 2hi.
I am also considering changing out solenoids. I have gathered it is unlikely the shift solenoids. Is it possible it could be one of these:
1 * EPC (Pressure Control) Solenoid
1 * PWM Solenoid
1 * Manifold Pressure Switch
1 * TCC Solenoid w/Harness
Another thing I suspect which would be an easy fix is the transfer case fluid level. I removed the fill plug and nothing came out. I can tell it has been leaking. I would have already topped it off but I have been stuck at home (no running vehicle lol). Could low fluid cause this issue? I hope that's all it is lol. Anyways I got a ride to the store tomorrow and to look at a back-up vehicle. Anything you guys recommend to grab from the parts store while I'm in town tomorrow?
What would be your guys recommendation on how to solve this problem and fix it?
All help is appreciated.
thanks in advance,
I have a 2012 Suburban, owned since new. Yesterday the key fob / remote / keyless transmitter stopped working. It stopped, then worked a couple times to unlock, then quit completely. I assumed it was a bad battery (10+ years old), so I replaced it with a new battery, still didn't work. I have the second remote that's only been used a couple times when the keys were "lost", and it doesn't work either. No response from any buttons. I checked the batteries in both, and both batteries are at 3.3 volts. I pulled the DSM fuse for 5 minutes and then disconnected the vehicle battery for 5 minutes, no change. I have tried holding the remote right next to where (I think) the RCDLR is in the left-rear pillar, still no response. The TPMS system works fine, reading all 4 tires correctly with no errors. I hooked up my ODB2 scanner, and it doesn't show any codes.
Do I have two dead remotes? Or has the RCDLR partially stopped working? I called the dealer, all they said was "buy a new remote, your two remotes have died". I asked, why would an unused 10 year old remote die? No answer, just come in and buy one. I have no faith in my dealership's service department based on previous repairs unfortunately, so I thought I'd ask here. My local locksmith will attempt a re-sync for $50, but they said if they're both not working it's not that. Unfortunately this year model won't allow the user to add or reprogram a remote.
Thanks in advance for any ideas of what to try, or what might be the issue.
"Opinion ‘Car Talk’ host:
Independent auto shops deserve the right to repair your car
September 28, 2022 at 7:00 a.m. EDT
(Washington Post staff illustration; images by iStock) Ray Magliozzi is one half of NPR’s show “Car Talk,” a longtime independent repair-shop owner, a Dear Car Talk columnist and a car reviewer on CarTalk.com.
When your car breaks, what do you do? Okay, after you utter a certain word? You have to decide where to take the car to get it fixed, right?
You really have two choices. You can go to the dealership or an independent repair shop. However, some car manufacturers don’t want to share key information for diagnosing and fixing cars with independent shops — and that’s something that’s not only bad for repair shops but also bad for you.
As a radio host who has advised thousands on their car problems and as an independent shop owner myself, I know all too well that car owners benefit when they have more choices. Congress is considering a national “right-to-repair” law, and lawmakers need to pass it to protect your rights as a consumer.
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Back in the old days, when people were still switching over from traveling by mastodon, you repaired cars with your eyes, ears, nose and hands — and, if you were desperate, a Chilton repair manual. Now, you often repair a car by first plugging a computer into the on-board-diagnostics port and seeing what the computer tells you is broken.
So, what’s the problem? Carmakers and their dealerships want to maintain control of modern diagnostic tools, which forces customers to come to them for repairs. Even though independents are willing to pay to license these tools, dealers see an advantage in exclusivity.
Dealerships have always had certain advantages. They have better coffee in their waiting rooms. Heck, they have waiting rooms. They have clean restrooms that don’t double as auxiliary air-filter storage. They also work on your particular make of car all day, every day. So they might be familiar with an oddball problem because they’ve worked on 4,000 Camrys.
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Independent shops are small businesses, run by individuals — some of whom are terrific people and mechanics and some of whom will blame your car troubles on demonic possession and give you essential oils to fix it.
But independent shops have their own advantage: price. Their labor and parts costs are usually much lower — hey, who do you think is ultimately paying for the dealerships’ coffee and fancy couches? Some research has found that dealers, on average, charged as much as 20 percent more than independent shops for the same repairs.
This article was featured in the Opinions A.M. newsletter. Sign up here for a digest of opinions in your inbox six days a week.
There’s also the matter of distance. Not every town in the United States has a stop light, let alone a dealership for every car brand. There are 16,752 franchised car dealers in the United States, according to the National Automobile Dealers Association, but there are nearly 240,000 repair shops — meaning that for a lot of people, an independent shop is the only nearby option.
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At Car Talk, there are times we’ll strongly recommend an independent shop for standard work like brakes, shocks, the engine and regular service. And there are times we’ll recommend going to the dealership, like when you have a particularly rare problem that might be unique to your make and model. But at the end of the day, you should take your car to the dealer to be fixed because you want to not because dealers have hoarded all the key information.
Beyond the information needed to diagnose and fix your car, dealerships also want to maintain control of your car’s telematics. What are telematics? Well, now that everything is connected to the internet, your car can notify your dealer when your car needs an oil change or has a blown sensor. Using the software they’re denying to independent shops, the dealer can then diagnose the trouble code, call you and schedule a repair. Most modern cars already have this ability.
Car manufacturers point to the importance of keeping your car’s data safe — including your location, say — as a reason to deny independent shops access to these tools and codes. They are right about the need for data security, but part of privacy is that you should be the one to decide who has access to your data.
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At least 17 states have laws on the books stating that your vehicle’s data belongs to you. Many independent repair shops will need to invest in tools to keep customer data secure, but just because they’ll need to invest doesn’t mean they can’t compete with dealers. Lack of choice — and competition — is never good for the consumer.
So consumer groups and independent shops are promoting what they call right-to-repair legislation, guaranteeing consumers more choice by requiring automakers to license their data with independent repair shops. The voters in my fair state of Massachusetts approved just such a law in 2020. In 2021, 27 states introduced or passed similar legislation. Beyond those state laws, there’s a national push to protect consumers and independent shops. H.R. 6570, a national right-to-repair bill, has been sitting with the House Energy and Commerce Committee for months.
My Car Talk colleagues and I know not everyone will support right-to-repair laws. Dealerships won’t like the level playing field. Mechanics might not like how much work they’ll actually have to do. Still, this is an issue everyone else can get behind. If you own something, you should be able to choose where to repair it. "
By Derick R
Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
Like new, Pulsar LT for sale, bought direct from manufacturer. Box is included as well, just can't upload a pic of it for some reason.
Had this installed on my 2021 Chevrolet Silverado, took this off when I traded it in. Works great, ~10 months of ownership.
Looking for $400, shipping included, within USA. Venmo/Paypal/Zelle preferred.
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