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I have a 2012 Suburban, owned since new. Yesterday the key fob / remote / keyless transmitter stopped working. It stopped, then worked a couple times to unlock, then quit completely. I assumed it was a bad battery (10+ years old), so I replaced it with a new battery, still didn't work. I have the second remote that's only been used a couple times when the keys were "lost", and it doesn't work either. No response from any buttons. I checked the batteries in both, and both batteries are at 3.3 volts. I pulled the DSM fuse for 5 minutes and then disconnected the vehicle battery for 5 minutes, no change. I have tried holding the remote right next to where (I think) the RCDLR is in the left-rear pillar, still no response. The TPMS system works fine, reading all 4 tires correctly with no errors. I hooked up my ODB2 scanner, and it doesn't show any codes.
Do I have two dead remotes? Or has the RCDLR partially stopped working? I called the dealer, all they said was "buy a new remote, your two remotes have died". I asked, why would an unused 10 year old remote die? No answer, just come in and buy one. I have no faith in my dealership's service department based on previous repairs unfortunately, so I thought I'd ask here. My local locksmith will attempt a re-sync for $50, but they said if they're both not working it's not that. Unfortunately this year model won't allow the user to add or reprogram a remote.
Thanks in advance for any ideas of what to try, or what might be the issue.
2017 Silverado LT 5.3 4X4 6speed transmission 51,000 miles
When I first bought the truck the transmission suffered from severe bucking or shudder under light load. GM calls it chuggle. The cause was "intermittent tcc delamination causing scoring on fluid pump". They replaced the torque converter, cover housing and pump cover along with a flush. This was at 10,000 miles. That seemed to solve the chugging problem.
For the last year or so I have noticed that the torque converter unlocks and locks frequently at freeway speeds. When it locks, following an unlock, there is a noticeable lurching forward. This is not neck snapping but is definitely noticeable. This lurching motion also occurs when upshifting 4/5 or 5/6.
While driving at freeway speeds (65 70mph) when I slightly let off the accelerator the rpm's rise about 200 then settle down. If I should slightly press down the same thing happens. However, when driving at a steady freeway speed, and holding steady on the throttle, on level ground I can feel this unlock/lock along with seeing the engine speed move up then settle down. If I engage cruise control on level ground it is worse and occurs more often. But, with cruise control on and there is a slight road incline there is no unlock or downshift. When I press hard on the throttle then it downshifts and accelerates fine.
Locking/unlocking and lurching; I do not recall the transmission behaving like this in the early years. The dealer says if it doesn't throw a code then it is operating normally. I can see that there are times when it should unlock such as when under load, but should it be this happening this frequently and be so noticeable? Or maybe I am being too sensitive?
Anybody experience the same thing? Is this normal transmission behavior?
Bought this vehicle brand new. I love it, and perfect for myself, my family, and the fact it's Diesel puts the cherry on top for me. But... now things have started. We have currently 1,137 miles on the vehicle and had the first message populated:
- Service steering column lock. (see photo)
Everything else worked, remote start, standard start, and the vehicle had zero issues. The following day from our road trip, we had to go to the DMV with our out-of-state paperwork to submit for plates. My wife now received a new message.
- Service emissions system. See owners manual. (see photo)
She drove to the DMV and left to get the smog paperwork. Then a new issue:
- Vehicle remote start isn't working. (see photo)
She is in the car and tries to start... Nothing. She tries again. It starts, and she drives it to a local dealer. They come to look and scheduled us for an appointment. She drives the vehicle now, and Onstar now shows the emission issue. ( see photo ) We now can't register the vehicle in California, because, the check engine light is on, emissions warning, and they won't smog it until it's corrected.
I noticed that none of these issues happened until it updated the software in the vehicle. I'm hoping this is something that can be fixed. I've been looking around for answers and only finding more issues that are all pretty shitty. Sorry, no better way to say it. I've also seen a post of people saying, “deal with it, it's a new breed of vehicles,” etc. I’d challenge that answer. No one should pay this much for a vehicle and face these issues I'm reading about.
So here's what I'm going to do, document everything, and I mean everything. This will be for everyone who may have this issue now or who may come across it.
My opinion...but I'm not a mechanic, is that there is a massive software and hardware issue with these models. I believe GM internally has to know about this from Dealers, Customer Service, Compliance Reports, etc. I'm sure all issues are in the queue to be address or fixed. I do, however, feel with the challenges of physical hardware that they chose a vendor that was most cost-effective, which is a component of these issues a long with the capability to support the software complexity of the current models.
Or maybe I'm just wearing a tin hat, who knows.
So, I open this up to you. Any advice, similar issues, outcomes you've faced, and other topics, please comment below.
May the journey of dealership visits begin. Hopefully, this journey isn't to long.
I have a 2015 Sierra "Work truck" with manual tailgate key lock (no remote electronic opening or camera; plain latch). The lock has worked great up until now. (Normally, turning the key 1/4 turn to the left unlocks the tailgate by engaging the latch handle.)
Now, I can turn the key just short of the unlock position (turns freely, like usual, not gritty or rusty or sticky), but then the lock binds. Feels like something internally fell into the mechanism is preventing the lock cylinder from turning the last little bit. Therefore, my latch handle will not engage to open the tailgate.
Is this a known/common problem? Fixes?
My 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab has about 110000 miles on it. It just started having an issue that I cannot seem to fix. The engine stays running when I turn the key to the off position and remove it. The accessories turn off normally and the RAP seems to be working. Meaning the radio and things turn off when I open the door....this truck is all stuck with the exception of a light bar. I’ve already pulled the light bar fuse at the battery hookup to see if that had anything to do with it and it made no change. Any ideas? Thanks
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