Just wanted to check in again and let you all know about another exciting service we're happy to be offering... The Denali Cluster Upgrade!
Many of you have requested this upgrade and I'm happy to report we have successfully completed the mod.
If you're interested in this, you'll need to know a few things.
Acquire a new or used GMC Denali cluster. This can be a Sierra or a Yukon cluster. (Please note: If you buy your cluster 2nd hand, DO NOT plug it into your vehicle.)
Diesel/Gas: The cluster will need to match some aspects of your current vehicle. For example, if you have a gas spec vehicle you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 6000rpm. If you have a diesel spec vehicle (2500, 3500) you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 5000rpm. Both shown below.
MPH/KPH: We can do BOTH USA and Metric market clusters. If you live in the USA, you'll want to get a cluster that has a speedometer that goes up to 140. If you live in a metric country, you'll want a cluster that goes to 200. Both options shown below.
COLOR: If you have a GMC and you want to keep your RED color theme, you'll want to find a 2016 GMC Denali cluster. If you have a Silverado, have done a blue conversion, or have upgraded your HMI to the newer blue theme and you're looking for a BLUE gauge theme, you'll want a 2017-2018 Denali cluster.
Android Auto/Carplay: For all of you Android Auto users wanting the use of your volume and track selection flippers back, this fixes it!!! once installed you'll once again have access to your flippers. This also allows for the long press of the voice button on the steering wheel to activate Google Assistant as well as Siri for Apple Carplay.
Year Matching: There has been a lot of talk that all modules that are installed into the vehicle need to be of the same year. After extensive testing we have found this to be mainly false. As long as the modules are of the same generation you should be A-OK for the install. That means if you have a 2.0 HMI vehicle (2014-2015) you can use a 2014-2015 Denali cluster. If you have a vehicle with a 2.5 HMI (Carplay Enabled, 2016-2018) you can use any 2016-2018 cluster so long as it matches your vehicle specs as mentioned above. And if you have a 2014-2015 and would like to upgrade to a blue themed cluster while adding Android Auto / Carplay, we are more than happy to facilitate the upgrade all at once.
Please reach out to me if you have any questions or are interested in getting this mod done to your own vehicle. Thanks for watching and enjoy the demo.
I'm back with another very exciting feature to reveal. It's been requested by many of you that I release a Video in Motion mod for the 2.5HMI for quite some time now. Well, I'm happy to say I've finally cracked it and I'm happy to offer this service for the loyal viewers of this forum.
First of all, let's talk basics. If you have a 2014-2016 you'll notice you can play video but only while in park. And if you have a 2017 or a 2018 GM vehicle you'll notice you cannot play video at all!
Well, I have solved this problem with a 2 for 1 solution. Regardless of your year between 2014-2018, I am happy to offer Video in Motion and Video Enabling for ALL 2014-2018 GM models
Please, do not hesitate to contact me if you'd like this done. Special forum pricing will be given as a thank you towards everyone who has supported me and has encouraged me along the way. I would not have been able to do this without you guys. Thanks for putting your faith in me.
Enjoy the demo, and like always, if you're interested - send me a PM.
Until next time...
*Edit* - For those of you who are curious, this allows videos to be played through USB. We will be adding other input options in the future. This will also allow full navigation controls in nav as well as texting and keyboard use which is usually restricted while driving. And this should be a given but this is for off-road or passenger use only. Please let me know if you have any more questions!
As many of you know, I've been hard at work on these HMI's for about 9 months now ever since I purchased my GMC Sierra last summer. I have since started programming modules for many of you right here on these forums and I could not be more grateful for all of your support and kind words.
A feature that has been requested from me many times over has been custom boot animations/logos/sounds and I am very happy to announce that after a lot of research and many nights of testing and programming I have finally achieved this task!
Please see the video below for a small demonstration. If any of you are interested in getting this done to your vehicle equipped with a 2.5 HMI please send me a PM and we can discuss this upgrade! Also, Please post ANY programming requests you'd like done on your truck and I'll do my best to make it a reality.
P.S. - This is just the beginning, there's lots more to come. Stay tuned...
Looking at crew cab short bed 4x4’s with the V8’s. I just can’t wrap my head around not having low range so it’ll either be a Z71 or a Trail Boss.
Been watching prices and I’m seeing Custom Trail Boss trucks starting to get close to the prices of the LT. As in within a grand or even less.
Anyone bought a Custom and regret it? I have a 2011 Silverado 1500 4x4 and my wife has a 2017 Yukon 4x4. Both have the 6L80 transmission and hers has the Ecotec 5.3 V8. Very happy with that engine and transmission combo and even with less power my ‘11 moves and drives well with the 3.42 gears.
Will I miss anything with a Custom instead of a regular LT Z71? 6 spd vs 8 spd? Gas mileage? Something else?
I was going to post this as a follow-up in the 4.10 gear thread about re-calibrating the speedometer but it seemed like a bridge too far in terms of a thread jack so I thought I'd start a new thread. I suspect I'm going to cover ground that has already been covered in a few threads so I apologize but hopefully this helps someone. Also, if you don't want to waste your time with my nerd-ery throughout, just go to the last two paragraphs.
Re-gearing for different tire sizes is a topic that I have followed for some time with keen interest. For one, I have a lifted truck with 35-inch tires (more on that later) still on the stock gears and am eagerly awaiting the moment I have enough cash to re-gear it. I hope to do so in the next couple months. Second, this topic is interesting to me because it seems to be loaded with opinions about the correct gear to choose, which is surprising since gear ratios and their effects are a known quantity. Full disclosure: I have never worked in the auto industry and I am NOT a certified auto technician. I do have a BS in Aerospace Engineering (I am NOT a practicing engineer) and a fair amount of technical experience so I consider myself at least partially qualified to discuss technical topics in general terms. As always, there are definitely people that frequent these forums that know more than I do. If you fit that description, please chime in and correct my errors. Pointing out that I'm wrong won't hurt my feelings. I will feel bad, however, if someone spends a bunch of money or makes a poor decision based on my bad information.
Everyone has different desires for their truck's performance so I always cringe when I see a new thread with the topic "What gear ratio should choose?" The only thing that makes me cringe more is when someone posts in that same thread "You should get 4.56. That's what I did and I love it. You'll be happy." That's great but it's also totally useless feedback in my opinion. Without any explanation for the reasoning behind the decision and likely with no knowledge on what will make someone else happy that's a pretty big leap. I find myself frustrated when someone's emotions drive their recommendation for a specific gear ratio based on how they feel when they drive their own truck. I don't know anyone on this forum personally. I respect all of you for our common love for our own trucks but I will always be skeptical when a relative stranger gives me a recommendation based on their "feelings."
On to my specific example: my own 2017 Silverado 1500 LT Z71. I bought the truck from the dealer with a 6" lift, 20-inch wheels and 35-inch tires already installed. I love my truck. What I didn't do, largely due to a lack of experience and research was get new gears installed right away. I wish I had. I plan to do so soon so the natural question is "What gear ratio should I get?" I don't tow much. When I do, it isn't especially heavy. I bought a 1500 for that reason. I love the bigger, stronger trucks but at this point in my life I just don't need one. So if you're like me and have 35-inch tires and the GM stock 3.42 differential gear (6-speed transmission), the determination on the new gear ratio now depends on what I want to do with the truck. In my case, I want to get back to stock performance/drive-ability, or as close as possible. To figure out how to do that, there is no opinion needed. It's a question of geometry and its associated math.
If you Google the phrase "gear ratio tire size" you will be inundated with calculators that will tell you what you need. I picked the first two that popped up. One said my current effective gear ratio is 3.17 and I need to be a 3.98 to get back to stock. The other said my numbers were slightly different but not by much. The difference is likely because one calculator used a simple "tire diameter" figure and the other used actual tire sizes. With that info alone, I will round to the next lower ratio (numerically higher) and go with 4.10 gears.
The common response to this line of reasoning that I see is "But, dude, what about the rolling mass of the new, bigger tires?!?" Great point. First off, I'm a nerd so what we should probably be referring to is "angular momentum" which is what is probably meant when people say "rolling mass." Every wheel/tire out there is rolling mass but it's the angular momentum of that wheel and tire that we're concerned about. Specifically accelerating when we're talking gears. First, a few relevant formulas:
"L" is Angular Momentum
"I" is moment of inertia
"ω" is angular speed, aka how fast the thing is spinning
"r" is radius
"m" is mass
The second formula just states the obvious - a bigger/heavier wheel has a bigger moment of inertia than a smaller one. What might be less obvious is the impact each variable has. Moment of inertia increases linearly with an increase in mass but exponentially with an increase in radius. To make it relevant, if my 35s and your 37s, including wheels, are the same total weight you have a much bigger angular momentum problem to deal with than I do.
You can see from this point already that accounting for angular momentum is difficult because it's based on speed. Turning your new big, heavy wheel/tire combo gets harder as you go faster so it's very difficult to account for that stress on your drive train since it changes as you accelerate. I would submit the bigger discussion here is the need for better brakes but that's a different topic.
I haven't been able to find a good calculator to account for angular momentum differences with wheel/tire combos and haven't been willing to really dig down to generate an answer. Part of that is because of the speed variability. Another part is because I had had a surprisingly difficult time finding the actual weight of OEM wheels and tires. Finally, I'm not sure the difference in angular momentum makes a huge impact on the overall stress on the drive train. While The additional weight/radius of the tires is relevant, I don't know how much it matters when those wheels are still sitting under a truck that weighs over 5,000 lbs. This point is a bit speculative on my part and my instinct could be way off how in how much angular momentum affects the overall drive train forces. Real engineers, feel free to chime in here if I'm way off base.
With all of that in mind, my conclusion is that changing gear ratios for new wheels and tires is hugely important because it allows you to match your differential ratio back to your transmission. The "system of systems" inside the truck were designed for a specific reason and matching your gear ratio to your new tires will get you back in that "sweet spot" the GM engineers found when they designed the truck. Using the online calculators to determine your new gear ratio based purely on the new radius or your tires is likely enough to answer the mail. Based on those calculators, I need to go to 4.10 to get back to stock. The guys that jump up and down saying 4.56 is the answer because they "like it" are potentially introducing new engineering problems in their truck by forcing all of the rotating internals to spin at a higher speed than originally intended for long periods of time. I'm not saying there aren't reasons to go to 4.56 but I would argue that gearing too low can be as risky as gearing too high if your goal is to have a safe, drive-able truck that lasts a long time.
Again, I hope this is helpful and I welcome any feedback anyone has to make this info more useful.
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