Rear window leak

bamorris2 · May 24, 2020

Today I finished up my slider to solid window conversion. Would I do it again? Yes. But cutting the urethane seal to remove the glass is a pain and I'd leave that step to a pro next time to save the aggravation. I can say confidently that these leaks COULD be fixed by removing the spoiler and sealing the top of the sliding window IF performed with the right products. Replacing the glass is overkill. But with a slider you'll always have a cracked window frame, unless the design is eventually fixed and the glass is replaced.

The TSB is incomplete in my opinion, the products recommended (Kent sealant) are inadequate and the likelihood that it will be done properly at the dealership is a huge gamble obviously. If you want to seal the window frame then use a self-leveling urethane or seam sealer type product. Sealing the spoiler bolt holes is also critical, although I'd argue the majority of leaks are probably the frames not the holes. No matter who does the work, your headliner will have be molested, paint may be scratched removing the glass and something will probably break (a trim clip etc).

The solid glass cost me $257 and took a week to get through my dealer parts account. I spent about $120 on 3M products and specialty tools. I used 3M urethane primer, 3M window weld and 3M strip caulk. One tube of window weld (sealer) did the job. I rolled the strip caulk like play-dough and put it around all of the bolts. Once tightened, it squeezed through all holes and made a nice permanent seal. After the glass had been in for a couple of hours and the spoiler was replaced and everything buttoned up I put the truck outside just in time for a huge rain storm and it passed the test.

Awesome job!! How long did it take you (labor)?

outrag1 · May 24, 2020

Great job Leevon. This is why these forums are so great!

Leevon · May 24, 2020

19 minutes ago, bamorris2 said:

Awesome job!! How long did it take you (labor)?

I had about 4 hours total into it. Removing the seat back is a little tricky, the headliner is a little tricky and cutting the window out is a pure pain because the slider track limits access to the bottom seal.

Edited May 24, 2020 by Leevon

abraham Lincoln · May 25, 2020

@LeevonI admire your commitment and work, awesome job, iam going to do some of your fixes to my truck, just one question man, are these the new nuts that gm is supposedly using they're black washers with silver nuts and have teeth ("teeth" because i dont know the correct term) on the outer edge, or should i re-use the silver flat no teeth slightly larger in diameter ones that are what came with truck ? Wish i had a pic of the original nuts. I got the new ones from my dealer, but i just don't trust them. They messed up the tsb pretty bad, they just squirted in sealant didn't remove the spoiler nothing, kinda glad they didn't, they would have messed it up even worse. i hope they gave me the correct nuts, just want to make sure.

Edited May 25, 2020 by abraham Lincoln

SilveradoRST · May 25, 2020

15 minutes ago, abraham Lincoln said:

@LeevonI admire your commitment and work, awesome job, iam going to do some of your fixes to my truck, just one question man, are these the new nuts that gm is supposedly using they're black washers with silver nuts and have teeth ("teeth" because i dont know the correct term) on the outer edge, or should i re-use the silver flat no teeth slightly larger in diameter ones that are what came with truck ? Wish i had a pic of the original nuts. I got the new ones from my dealer, but i just don't trust them. They messed up the tsb pretty bad, they just squirted in sealant didn't remove the spoiler nothing, kinda glad they didn't, they would have messed it up even worse. i hope they gave me the correct nuts, just want to make sure.

What is the part number for these nuts?

And is it just new nuts or new bolts too?

JohnTz · May 25, 2020

This is a great thread and super informative. Does anyone have some thoughts on why some small number of these leak but the vast majority do not? I am trying to see what the characteristics of a leaker are so I can proactively inspect my rear window for the fault that may cause a future leak and maybe be proactive with a fix to prevent a water disaster inside the truck?

vanwinkle · May 25, 2020

My 2019 Trail Boss is having the exact same problem, except the damage is severe. The dealer has had my truck for two weeks, wouldn’t return my calls and when I finally got the receptionist on the phone she told me to pick it up. Nope, carpet still soaking wet and all metal brackets are covered with corrosive rust, headliner still has huge water mark, shop guys got grease shoe prints all over the soaked carpet, and the mildew/ mold is so strong I could hardly breathe. There are even exposed mechanical parts behind the gas peddle with rust on them. So basically my truck is destroyed and can’t get anyone to take it seriously. I can’t believe they let me see it this way. They even spray painted the brackets under the seat thinking I wouldn’t look further behind to see the extensive damage. Maybe it’s because I’m a woman or maybe they just don’t care. Getting a lawyer tomorrow. Already contacted Georgia’s lemon law attorney.

Edited May 25, 2020 by vanwinkle

Porterhouse · May 25, 2020

Just a tip for you guys that might help with dealing with dealerships. Once I told them my kids have sever allergies they bent over backwards in replacing the carpet and the headliner. Also, when looking at trucks I've noticed most leakers have discoloration on the storage compartment carpet under the rear seat.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Porterhouse · May 25, 2020

Here's the carpet discoloration that should've been a red flag on my truck when I purchased it.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Andrew David · May 25, 2020

Spoke to the service director today. They were not happy with the seal as it was still leaking so they are doing it for a third time. As I suspected the leak is not coming from the window. They confirmed that It is coming from the spoiler bolts on the roof and channeling down to the window. This is such a piss poor design on GMs part. This has to be a much larger problem but I just think that most people don’t notice it.

DCazares · May 25, 2020

3 hours ago, Andrew David said:

Spoke to the service director today. They were not happy with the seal as it was still leaking so they are doing it for a third time. As I suspected the leak is not coming from the window. They confirmed that It is coming from the spoiler bolts on the roof and channeling down to the window. This is such a piss poor design on GMs part. This has to be a much larger problem but I just think that most people don’t notice it.

see my post on the previous page on the same flaw on the Malibu. It's basically going to to be the same fix with different size gaskets of course.

Andrew David · May 25, 2020

50 minutes ago, DCazares said:

see my post on the previous page on the same flaw on the Malibu. It's basically going to to be the same fix with different size gaskets of course.

I agree but until GM admits it and actually designs some gaskets it’s even adds some weather stripping where the spoiler meets the roof it’s just going to keep happening.

they have 1 more time to get it right if it happens again in my truck with less than 1500 miles on it before I lemon law it

honestly this TSB should be part of PDI before the trucks make it to the customer.

Thomcat · May 26, 2020

21 hours ago, JohnTz said:

This is a great thread and super informative. Does anyone have some thoughts on why some small number of these leak but the vast majority do not? I am trying to see what the characteristics of a leaker are so I can proactively inspect my rear window for the fault that may cause a future leak and maybe be proactive with a fix to prevent a water disaster inside the truck?

A lot of the leaking posts mention urethane sealant on the window frame. Examination of the excess squeezed out on mine which remains leak free for over a year appears to be flexible black silicone rubber.

Edited May 26, 2020 by Thomcat

Jav_eee · May 26, 2020

A lot of the leaking posts mention urethane sealant on the window frame. Examination of the excess squeezed out on mine which remains leak free for over a year appears to be flexible black silicone rubber.

Did they seal the actual slider?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Mogur · May 26, 2020

On 5/24/2020 at 3:35 PM, Leevon said:

Today I finished up my slider to solid window conversion. Would I do it again? Yes. But cutting the urethane seal to remove the glass is a pain and I'd leave that step to a pro next time to save the aggravation. I can say confidently that these leaks COULD be fixed by removing the spoiler and sealing the top of the sliding window IF performed with the right products and extra cleaning and care. Replacing the glass is overkill. But with a slider you'll always have a cracked window frame, unless the design is eventually fixed and the glass is replaced.

....snip....

Is the slider you removed still usable for someone with a concerted effort to put in a truck? Curious. Maybe you want to sell it?

If so, can it be made waterproof with more seals,etc, when installing?

I am interested.

Let me know, msg, PM, whatever. (I am in SE ID)

YMMV