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BTR Cam 223/228, .604"/.604", 114 LSA


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20 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Well Brandon I have a solution for ya. Title your truck in my name and in my state. :thumbs: Love to help you out. :lol:

Thanks but im actually trying to build the truck smog legal anyways.  Cops in my area pull me over just for what my truck looks like. Pop the hood and its legal :) makes them look like jack wagons for judging

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This is crazy. My engine has all that and a super charger. If I was just going to do one thing a super charger would be it. I’ve done several. Hell I can go from 500 HP to 600 with a ten minute pulley change. And if I keep my foot out of it, it drives normal.


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On 11/18/2018 at 7:58 PM, Centex14 said:

Several but few here do stuff that in depth. Performancetrucks.net is where you’ll get better answers. This site revolves around towing, leveling kits, and problems.


2014 z71 LTZ
Volant Intake
Borla Exhaust
Diablo
Bilstein 5100
Rough Country Level

I got no response over these either.

 

I will be install myself. New parts to include, Cam, Lifters, lifter trays, push rods, timing chain, DOD delete, valve springs, valve stem seals, head bolts, head gaskets, 1 7/8" TSP headers, catted mid-pipe, all for under $2K. I am going back and forth on a torque converter... I probably should go ahead and do it as a Circle D 2800-3200 stall is under $600. 

 

I might supercharge down the road but really more focused on eliminating the junk that GM puts in these engines from the factory. I want it more reliable, end of story. Was hoping for some feedback on past experiences with a similar set-up. I guess I will go with my gut.

 

Thanks

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On 11/18/2018 at 8:06 PM, Nasty said:

That is a pretty big cam as well. Do you really want that much in a daily (if its your daily)?

How do you know it's too much? That's why I posted to get some real world feedback if anyone had a similar set-up. I don't think in a 6.2L that this cam is too big. I might need a converter and am leaning on getting one.

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On 11/18/2018 at 8:58 PM, M1ck3y said:

If your not installing it yourself you mays well just put a supercharger on instead. Cam is cheaper but not by much.

Under $2K in parts and installing myself. A Whipple supercharger is $6200. I did see a small Magnuson supercharger for $4500 Black Friday deal but I hate the inlet on that blower. 

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3 hours ago, 6.2_GMC_DEN said:

How do you know it's too much? That's why I posted to get some real world feedback if anyone had a similar set-up. I don't think in a 6.2L that this cam is too big. I might need a converter and am leaning on getting one.

Considering a 225/231 635 cam from texas speed is a stage 4.  The specs you gave are about the same    thats a pretty big big cam.  

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25 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Considering a 225/231 635 cam from texas speed is a stage 4.  The specs you gave are about the same    thats a pretty big big cam.  

It's a Stage 1 for a 6.2L like I stated in the beginning. Not a Stage 4. 

 

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-4532-texas-speed-performance-lt1lt4l86-62l-camshaft-package.aspx

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You are on the wrong site for asking about a cam.  Most as mentioned do levels, big tires and catbacks.  Not that there is anything wrong with that and it's a good group but it's just not the niche of the site

 

Performance trucks dot net is a dying site but it still has guys that can help... or do like I do and figure it out on my own.  The Gen V is not as easy to swap like an LS was.  It's no reason not to do it but it's not as cheap and simple either.  

 

I think I blew minds doing gears and a locker in my 17 here haha.  It's way more fun to be stock and undergeared forever...not haha.  My 04 has a blower but it's a 2300 Maggie on a forged 370.. not much stock GM is left on  it anymore haha.  

Edited by SierraHD17
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On 11/18/2018 at 10:53 PM, Centex14 said:

It’s such a canned response. Someone wants to do some actual engine work and everyone instantly says go the forced induction route. It’s become a cop out. Installing a cam isn’t easy or for the faint of heart but you get to really appreciate what it takes to make an engine live and breathe and thrive.

The cam is the brain of the engine. All of the computers in the world and they are still told what to do by that single stick of steel. That stick of steel tells the valves when to open and close and that’s what makes the power. It dictates whether the power comes in early or late or narrow or wide. The computers can assist and aid that in a big way but at the end of the day the cam still rules all.

Adding a blower is meh. It’s become so easy to add a 150-200hp to an engine that no one appreciates it. Sure it’s cool but slapping one on and calling it done is so lazy in my opinion. Not to mention that the proper cam when combined with a blower can make even more power.

I guess if you’re weird and you have some sort of emotional investment into the heart and soul of the engine inside a pickup truck. Anybody that has a family and a job probably doesn’t give two shits and likely doesn’t have an entire week to pull their motor and build it.

 

This is not to mention that it is indeed a pickup truck, that weighs 5500lbs unloaded. Cam’s and NA builds make hp but they also reduce torque, especially at the very low end like off idle.

 

So we have option A

-spend a lot of time and money building a motor that makes 150whp more and suffers performance on the low end for daily driving and towing

 

or option B

-spend much less time and about the same amount of money and slap a supercharger kit on the weekend and make 200whp more and have increased daily driving and towing performance

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4 minutes ago, truckguy82 said:

I guess if you’re weird and you have some sort of emotional investment into the heart and soul of the engine inside a pickup truck. Anybody that has a family and a job probably doesn’t give two shits and likely doesn’t have an entire week to pull their motor and build it.

 

This is not to mention that it is indeed a pickup truck, that weighs 5500lbs unloaded. Cam’s and NA builds make hp but they also reduce torque, especially at the very low end like off idle.

 

So we have option A

-spend a lot of time and money building a motor that makes 150whp more and suffers performance on the low end for daily driving and towing

 

or option B

-spend much less time and about the same amount of money and slap a supercharger kit on the weekend and make 200whp more and have increased daily driving and towing performance

First time ive agreed with you 

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On 11/25/2018 at 1:12 PM, truckguy82 said:

I guess if you’re weird and you have some sort of emotional investment into the heart and soul of the engine inside a pickup truck. Anybody that has a family and a job probably doesn’t give two shits and likely doesn’t have an entire week to pull their motor and build it.

 

This is not to mention that it is indeed a pickup truck, that weighs 5500lbs unloaded. Cam’s and NA builds make hp but they also reduce torque, especially at the very low end like off idle.

 

So we have option A

-spend a lot of time and money building a motor that makes 150whp more and suffers performance on the low end for daily driving and towing

 

or option B

-spend much less time and about the same amount of money and slap a supercharger kit on the weekend and make 200whp more and have increased daily driving and towing performance

Once it is tore down I will share pics of what I suspect a scored cam lobe. Dealer replaced lifters and bent pushrod and said cam was fine at the time. I am sure it is toast now.

 

I am not changing this cam for huge HP gains but sure I will gain 50 and because of VVT they are able to maintain torque down low on this cam if tuned right. Also doing a cam swap is no big deal for me. 

 

I understand how you could feel the way you do. Thanks

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I might supercharge down the road but really more focused on eliminating the junk that GM puts in these engines from the factory. I want it more reliable, end of story.
My thoughts exactly.

I have systematically been changing parts out to improve the reliability of my truck. And, because I really enjoy learning how everything works. The AFM/DOD system is slowly but surely creeping it’s way up the list of priorities. I have it electronically disabled for now, but I am itching to get the AFM lifters out of the truck and plug the towers. To do that, I need a cam and am happy it will add some power to the truck too. Aside from the tune, I haven’t read anything earth shattering about a cam install that requires more than patience, a good set of tools, all the appropriate parts and sufficient time to get it done.

Part of the thrill is figuring out which cam profile, lifter type, lobe separation, etc... that I will need to accomplish what I want out of this truck. Before this week, I had no clue what the numbers on a cam card meant. Now, I’m fascinated by how it all works.

This thread sure flared up some opinions, and to each their own. For the guys who are restricted by laws, time, energy, etc... I’m glad there are advancements that allow you the ability to literally bolt on a couple hundred horses for you to enjoy your truck and still be able to devote your time and energy where you value it the most.

For the guys who appreciate the intricacies of how all these parts come together and enjoy them for what they are in addition to the power that they produce, that’s great too.

For me, it’s liberating not to depend on a mechanic to perform work that I could have done myself and I enjoy the challenge of learning new things.

I’m looking forward to reading about your install as this is something I would like to do also. Have fun!

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1 hour ago, 6.2_GMC_DEN said:

Once it is tore down I will share pics of what I suspect a scored cam lobe. Dealer replaced lifters and bent pushrod and said cam was fine at the time. I am sure it is toast now.

 

I am not changing this cam for huge HP gains but sure I will gain 50 and because of VVT they are able to maintain torque down low on this cam if tuned right. Also doing a cam swap is no big deal for me. 

 

I understand how you could feel the way you do. Thanks

There is no cam that is going to make more power up top and not decrease power down low.

 

When the guys say “maintain” they mean it’s still comfortable to daily drive.

 

Perfect example is honda vtec, they have a small cam lobe for increased low end torque and a bigger lobe for top end power. Can’t switch cam lobes on a pushrod motor so your stuck picking low end power or top end power, not both

 

oh and vvt on a pushrod motor is BS, all it does it change the angle on the cam. One of the major limitations of having a single cam.

Edited by truckguy82
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I've read that the VVT on the genV can change the duration by like 30 degrees by changing that angle. That is like a big and a small cam at the same time. Key is finding a tuner that understands the technology and just doesn't want to disable everything cause it's "more reliable".   To me there is no argument, if you like N/a and tinkering go for it. You want easy power get the blower. I just think do it right either way and get the right supporting mods to take full benefit whatever you do.

 

for other sites I would check camaro6 since there are a lot of cammed guys over there pulling close to 500whp with just cam and minimal supporting mods. or corvette forums. The Gen V 6.2 really seems to reward with the right mods. even N/A.

 

That cam size in the subject line seems ideal for the 6.2LT for any all around use. 

Edited by kennerz
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On 11/27/2018 at 8:22 PM, truckguy82 said:

There is no cam that is going to make more power up top and not decrease power down low.

 

When the guys say “maintain” they mean it’s still comfortable to daily drive.

 

Perfect example is honda vtec, they have a small cam lobe for increased low end torque and a bigger lobe for top end power. Can’t switch cam lobes on a pushrod motor so your stuck picking low end power or top end power, not both

 

oh and vvt on a pushrod motor is BS, all it does it change the angle on the cam. One of the major limitations of having a single cam.

The large gear on the front of the cam is the actuator that controls the camshaft through its 31 degrees of potential movement. Also note the groove cut into the second journal. This groove is what directs oil from the main galley forward to the actuator. The cam bolt that also serves as the valve that directs oil in various directions to move the phaser to either advance or retard the camshaft.

 

Pic below is the HP Tuners page for VVT control. Maximum load would be at the bottom of the chart with highest rpm on the far right. Note that the biggest numbers occur at light throttle (shaded yellow). This is because GM “parks” the cam at full advance, so the numbers refer to the number of degrees of retard implemented. GM retards the cam at light throttle to reduce intake manifold vacuum.

 

Advance vs. Retard
Advanced
Early intake closing creates more cylinder pressure at lower engine speeds
Earlier exhaust opening reduces pumping losses to improve fuel mileage
Builds more cylinder pressure at lower engine speeds for better torque
Decreases intake piston-to-valve (P-V) clearance
Increases exhaust P-V clearance
Retarded
Later intake closing point delays maximum cylinder pressure to higher engine rpm
Delayed exhaust opening allows longer cylinder pressure push on the piston
Builds more high-rpm power
Increases intake P-V
Decreases exhaust P-V
Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) does not change with advance or retard

002-variable-valve-timing-cam.jpg

010-hp-tuners-graph.jpg

005-cam-phaser-actuator-solenoid.jpg

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