Anyone start tearing down a 2019 to install sound system?

Goobax · January 30, 2020

Looking at purchasing a DSP in lieu of an Audiocontrol LOC (hated the LC7 I had in a previous car) and wanted to ask for recommendations. I was always an Alpine guy but it seems they are limited to amplifiers with built in DSP instead of standalone units. Looks like the JL audio Fix86 +/- JL audio TwK 88 (or D8) are the best options for adding a 2 channel (sub) and 4 channel (doors) amplifiers? Anyone running both the Fix86 w/ the TwK?

Edited January 30, 2020 by Goobax

ArcherMP · January 30, 2020

2 hours ago, Goobax said:

Looking at purchasing a DSP in lieu of an Audiocontrol LOC (hated the LC7 I had in a previous car) and wanted to ask for recommendations. I was always an Alpine guy but it seems they are limited to amplifiers with built in DSP instead of standalone units. Looks like the JL audio Fix86 +/- JL audio TwK 88 (or D8) are the best options for adding a 2 channel (sub) and 4 channel (doors) amplifiers? Anyone running both the Fix86 w/ the TwK?

You could go with the Zen (https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT955/zen-avb-gm.html) and hook it straight to a JL Audio VXi amplifier. No need for a FIX or TwK.

Goobax · January 30, 2020

15 minutes ago, ArcherMP said:

You could go with the Zen (https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT955/zen-avb-gm.html) and hook it straight to a JL Audio VXi amplifier. No need for a FIX or TwK.

Not sure that will work on the Custom, I only have the IOR unfortunately. No Bose either but that's probably for the best.

Edited January 30, 2020 by Goobax

JH1973 · January 30, 2020

That NavTV unit is only going to work on a factory Bose system.It replaces the stock amp basically.The I0R base system has completely different connectors and wiring configurations.

Zelas · January 30, 2020

14 hours ago, Goobax said:

Looking at purchasing a DSP in lieu of an Audiocontrol LOC (hated the LC7 I had in a previous car) and wanted to ask for recommendations. I was always an Alpine guy but it seems they are limited to amplifiers with built in DSP instead of standalone units. Looks like the JL audio Fix86 +/- JL audio TwK 88 (or D8) are the best options for adding a 2 channel (sub) and 4 channel (doors) amplifiers? Anyone running both the Fix86 w/ the TwK?

I did the fix 82 in my Custom. I used it instead of of the 86 due to the fact that I dont care about fading. I also used the VXi amps and can control all my settings via bluetooth and ipad. No need to remove seats or panels to make an adjustments. Its the best sound I have ever had.

Edited January 30, 2020 by Zelas
spelling error

Goobax · January 31, 2020

13 hours ago, Zelas said:

I did the fix 82 in my Custom. I used it instead of of the 86 due to the fact that I dont care about fading. I also used the VXi amps and can control all my settings via bluetooth and ipad. No need to remove seats or panels to make an adjustments. Its the best sound I have ever had.

Forgive my ignorance but what is gained by retaining the fix 82 when using the VXi line, shouldn't this be a redundancy given the VXi has DSP already in or do you need both for other reasons?

Thanks

MrSavageTim · February 1, 2020

Ok So after hours upon hours of audiophile research heres the deal, if you’re going to put a system into a BOSE 2019+ then you need the NAV TV Unit. Period. It converts the bus data signals to optical/digital or coax and allows the cleanest signal possible with no time alignment issues etc. If you choose to use a harness, (which none on the market to date have zero interference), or if your like me who figured out all of the wire connections on the amp and spliced from there, you are going to need a DSP since the issue with the bose amp is mainly some timing correction that cannot be altered with an LC7i. For the non bose, Im not entirely sure but again the NAV TV unit is without a doubt your best bet for the cleanest possible sound and best bang for your buck build for an audiophile grade signal. I have tried everything, I will also be making a color coated wiring diagram for all the speakers and amp input/output for those who are not going to to buy the NAV TV unit. Again, no matter what, you are going to need a DSP regardless if you have bose or not. Otherwise its not even worth the money upgrading. The whole issue is these newer trucks have converted the signal from

the head unit into BUS DATA which obviously is not able to be used by aftermarket amps or DSP’s. So the NAV TV unit essentially changes those pre amp bus data signals into digital or analog allowing you to actually bypass the bose amp or factory amp without losing all of your door chimes etc. If you dont use the nav tv unit you are going to have to tap into the amp post amp signal, and use a dsp to clean up the incoming signal as best you can, then have the dsp convert the signal to rca to be able to plug into your amp. Again you will need a dsp no matter what because the signal coming through has its own factory time alignment which will not suit any aftermarket system you install. As far as tapping into the truck, there is a wire cluster under the passenger rear sill panel, but its best to remove the rear seats and tap in there since its much easier to clean up the wiring mess. Currently Im waiting on my NAV TV unit so Im going to be soddering back all those wires I spliced and when the Nav Tv unit comes In Il install that and send a digital signal to my DSP then send the signal to my amp and finally have a truly worth your money audiophile grade sounding system.

Edited February 1, 2020 by MrSavageTim

Zelas · February 3, 2020

On 1/30/2020 at 8:09 PM, Goobax said:

Forgive my ignorance but what is gained by retaining the fix 82 when using the VXi line, shouldn't this be a redundancy given the VXi has DSP already in or do you need both for other reasons?

Thanks

The Fix is only to correct the signals from and provide a flat baseline to then use whatever method you gonna go. Its the best option out there for Non bose units.

JH1973 · February 3, 2020

7 hours ago, Zelas said:

The Fix is only to correct the signals from and provide a flat baseline to then use whatever method you gonna go. Its the best option out there for Non bose units.

The Fix86 is certainly a fine choice but by no means a "must" for Non-Bose systems.Many have ran their stock speaker signals straight into the speaker level inputs of a 4ch amplifier and used the RCA passthrough to feed signal to their mono bass amp yielding fantastic results.

TNAT4 · February 6, 2020

So thought I’d post this here to let you guys know about a problem with the NavTv. I have a 2020 AT4 and just had a new sound system installed. I had factory Bose replaced with NavTv, Audison 5.9 bit 5ch amp with built in DSP, pushing Hertz speakers throughout with a Illusion Carbon 10” sub. Sounds great, except there’s a software problem with the NavTv. It randomly shuts off all sound from the head unit, including door chimes and blinker. Once it’s off the unit (NavTv) has to be reset to get sound back. Turning the truck off does not fix it when started back up. Short term fix is a toggle switch my installer put under my dash until the next software update to correct the problem. He called NavTv and they expect a software update to roll out in a few weeks to correct the problem.

ArcherMP · February 6, 2020

5 hours ago, TNAT4 said:

So thought I’d post this here to let you guys know about a problem with the NavTv. I have a 2020 AT4 and just had a new sound system installed. I had factory Bose replaced with NavTv, Audison 5.9 bit 5ch amp with built in DSP, pushing Hertz speakers throughout with a Illusion Carbon 10” sub. Sounds great, except there’s a software problem with the NavTv. It randomly shuts off all sound from the head unit, including door chimes and blinker. Once it’s off the unit (NavTv) has to be reset to get sound back. Turning the truck off does not fix it when started back up. Short term fix is a toggle switch my installer put under my dash until the next software update to correct the problem. He called NavTv and they expect a software update to roll out in a few weeks to correct the problem.

I have different components, but have the same end results with the NAV-TV. I changed the amplifier turn on to "DC Offset" instead of relying on the NAV-TV remote wire. It almost seems like the blue remote wire is losing voltage which is causing the amp to shut off. Granted it has only been a day since I changed to DC Offset but so far seems to be working. Probably will make a fool out of me tomorrow, hehe.

It drives me up the wall that I spent $600 for a device that works intermittently, and has non-existent support resources.

TNAT4 · February 6, 2020

5 hours ago, ArcherMP said:

I have different components, but have the same end results with the NAV-TV. I changed the amplifier turn on to "DC Offset" instead of relying on the NAV-TV remote wire. It almost seems like the blue remote wire is losing voltage which is causing the amp to shut off. Granted it has only been a day since I changed to DC Offset but so far seems to be working. Probably will make a fool out of me tomorrow, hehe.

It drives me up the wall that I spent $600 for a device that works intermittently, and has non-existent support resources.

My installer was told they'd have an update within 2 weeks or so. They told him they need to get a 2020 truck in there to "play" with in order to figure out the software update. Let me know if the DC Offset is a true solution because something tells me it will take them longer than 2 weeks to get the software update and its annoying having to hit the toggle button and wait for a bootup every couple days.

ArcherMP · February 6, 2020

3 hours ago, TNAT4 said:

My installer was told they'd have an update within 2 weeks or so. They told him they need to get a 2020 truck in there to "play" with in order to figure out the software update. Let me know if the DC Offset is a true solution because something tells me it will take them longer than 2 weeks to get the software update and its annoying having to hit the toggle button and wait for a bootup every couple days.

Nope, didn't work, although I did not have to reboot the NAV-TV, only the JL VXi.