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Grjfer

UPR single side catch can install 2018 GMC Sierra 6.2.

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It's actually pretty open and not difficult at all.

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7 hours ago, flyingfool said:

ahh just as i thought it does have a check valve, yes it does flow in both directions like all pcvs, but it closes when presssure exceeds a certain level of vacuum or positive crank case pressure,

 

so there is no need to add a check valve on those aftermarket catch can kits. 

Why would it close if the crank case pressure got too high?

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too much negative or positive pressure can potentially cause high oil consumption due to oil windage or oil in vapor  in the engine block flinging around at high rpm..

 

I am rethinking the whole pcv catch can idea,  and completely disabling the PCV circuit, by blocking it off and just ventilate the valve covers. as long as the pressure in the block is balanced the main seals will not get blown out...

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27 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

too much negative or positive pressure can potentially cause high oil consumption due to oil windage or oil in vapor  in the engine block flinging around at high rpm..

 

I am rethinking the whole pcv catch can idea,  and completely disabling the PCV circuit, by blocking it off and just ventilate the valve covers. as long as the pressure in the block is balanced the main seals will not get blown out...

Well you’re not doing that yet that’s why I asked why it would close with pressure raising? If it closed wouldn’t that add even more pressure to the crank case??? Not arguing trying to understand how in the world excess pressure in the crank case would cause the PCV valve to close which would cause even more pressure! 

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5 hours ago, Mike GMC said:

Any issues getting to the oil fill cap with the can installed in that position?  It looks like it might make pouring oil in more difficult in the pictures.

Can is completely out of the way. The lines do run over it, but are flexible enough to not be an issue. 

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11 minutes ago, Grjfer said:

Can is completely out of the way. The lines do run over it, but are flexible enough to not be an issue. 

Even if they were in the way with the UPR lines you can easily pop them off and out of the way, they use (as you know!) quick disconnects...push a button and pull, done. 

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27 minutes ago, SS502 said:

Well you’re not doing that yet that’s why I asked why it would close with pressure raising? If it closed wouldn’t that add even more pressure to the crank case??? Not arguing trying to understand how in the world excess pressure in the crank case would cause the PCV valve to close which would cause even more pressure! 

PCV is an emissions device, .. but it also does increase the life of engine oil by cleaning or removing water vapors from the blow-by gasses from combustion. otherwise you will get whit milky substance  under your oil filler cap and mixing with the oil, increacing acid corrosion of internal parts in the block.  its designed to have vacuum pulling on it, feeding into the manifold for reburn.

 

when you open throttle and add fuel you loose manifold vac. then there is no more "vac/low pressure" in the engine block. the pressure is equalized to the atmosphere. and possibly above atmosphere positive. thats when the pcv check valve moves the otherdirection to block the flow..    then at WOT high rpm the pistons pump the case pressure up, to higher pressures positive air press. that gets vented off thru the valve cover breathers, otherwise you will blow the main seals if not vented.

 

 

for a daily driver truck , its best to stay stock and keep the pcv...., a race truck is going to have oil changed every time its driven or raced.  so different factors at play 

Edited by flyingfool

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8 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

PCV is an emissions device, .. but it also does increase the life of engine oil by cleaning or removing water vapors from the blow-by gasses from combustion. otherwise you will get whit milky substance  under your oil filler cap and mixing with the oil, increacing acid corrosion of internal parts in the block.  its designed to have vacuum pulling on it, feeding into the manifold for reburn.

 

when you open throttle and add fuel you loose manifold vac. then there is no more "vac/low pressure" in the engine block. the pressure is equalized to the atmosphere.    then at WOT high rpm the pistons pump the case pressure up, to higher pressures positive air press. that gets vented off thru the valve cover breathers, otherwise you will blow the main seals if not vented.

 

 

for a daily driver truck , its best to stay stock and keep the pcv...., a race truck is going to have oil changed every time its driven or raced.  so different factors at play 

I still (and you explained it well) don’t understand why it would close when pressure in the crank case is rising and thus raising it even higher. I thought the PCV valve is open to keep crank case pressures from building and blowing out the RMS. Now I know they are supposed to close if manifold pressure is stronger (WOT) preventing blow back into the crank case. My guess as to the reason the catch cans use check valves is to prevent that same pressure from stressing the fittings and lines used. If no can then the PCV valve just closes, with a can, you have those lines and fittings that would be subject to said pressures and possibly start leaking.

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stock gm pcv might just be one way flow. , i've seem other designs from toyota that are a 2 way chek valve to a certain level of flow , 

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20 hours ago, SS502 said:

Even if they were in the way with the UPR lines you can easily pop them off and out of the way, they use (as you know!) quick disconnects...push a button and pull, done. 

True.  I'm just a bit Leary of that install location and the UPR locks you into it with the premade lines.  I really liked my location on my 15.  I had it on the radiator core support on the driver's side near the spare battery tray.  Just to the side of the fan shroud but not over the tray.  It was well out of the way of pretty much everything.  I had to make a small notch in the plastic cover over the core support, but that was it, just find a suitable bolt and use an existing hole. 

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14 minutes ago, Mike GMC said:

True.  I'm just a bit Leary of that install location and the UPR locks you into it with the premade lines.  I really liked my location on my 15.  I had it on the radiator core support on the driver's side near the spare battery tray.  Just to the side of the fan shroud but not over the tray.  It was well out of the way of pretty much everything.  I had to make a small notch in the plastic cover over the core support, but that was it, just find a suitable bolt and use an existing hole. 

I know this spot! Was one of my test fit areas and it’s a good one for sure. This is a screen shot of the video I made for install in that same spot, very easily accessible and out of the way! That’s the bolt for the radiator support and it’s a heavy duty bolt. It’s pointing right at the hole with the heavy rubber grommet.

***Oops, maybe not where you are talking about now that I read the whole post but this works well too and uses the existing bolt***

C9BEFD8E-D67E-4AC7-85E6-31C20EDE3E5E.jpeg

Edited by SS502

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Very close to the spot, it looks like the heal of your hand is on the spot I used.  Just trimmed a notch into the plastic cover were it folds over the edge.

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1 hour ago, Mike GMC said:

Very close to the spot, it looks like the heal of your hand is on the spot I used.  Just trimmed a notch into the plastic cover were it folds over the edge.

Yep, good spot too, the spot I show is great if your bracket allows it, I decided on the fender brace location 👍

F232EA97-985E-44CF-A60A-92E8603D571E.jpeg

D650371E-2D75-4003-BD19-B319EDE86C12.jpeg

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