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M3Master

How to install a dash cam on a 2019 Silverado

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On 12/14/2019 at 8:03 PM, Michael2020AT4 said:

So I tried this today with a Rove 4k dash cam. I am not sure that it is correct. I definitely don't want to mess up my truck.

Here is my experience and questions/concerns.

So I have the dash cam positioned on the windshield. I ran the wire up by the bracket around the rearview mirror, tucked it at the top headliner over to the pillar, down behind the weather stripping and into the fuse box area. 

I disconnected the negative first. I finally got the kick panel off which was harder than I thought and found a place for the ground wire.

I used the fuse that was mentioned by OP for the garage door opener which is always on.

I didn't realize that the orientation of the fuse mattered. I tried a few combinations of the two fuses in the same spot but turned around. 

After each time, I reconnected the negative terminal and checked things.

1. the camera powered up but garage door button would not work. I turned the truck fuse around but left the add a fuse in the same orientation and tried everything again.

2. the camera powered up but garage door button would not work again. 

Finally after turning them 3-4 times, finally the camera powered up and the garage door button worked.

But I noticed a couple things while sitting in the truck reading the dash cam manual. 

1. I heard static briefly over the radio and the parking assist button briefly flashed on and  then went off. After the first and second fuse switch, the parking assist button did this cycle several times. After the last time when I got the garage door button to work, the parking assist just flashes once and then done.

2. Normally when the truck is on and I turn it off then open the door the radio shuts off and if I close the door again there's a horn honk letting me know the key is still in the truck. This is hard to explain but it is no longer happening or working that way now.

 

I am going to watch it for a day or two and see what happens but was wanting to get others opinion especially if you have already done this.

Thanks for any tips or comments.

Any news on this?  Single dashcam or Dual?  Have you had any TPMS issues or proximity sensor issues or key fob range issues.  Supposedly the power cable on some devices can cause interference with these things.

 

See my post for the issues I'm having. 

 

  

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Pictures of where you mounted the camera please.

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6 hours ago, Contra said:

Pictures of where you mounted the camera please.

Here is where I mounted my front one. 

20191227_153814.jpg

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6 hours ago, Contra said:

Pictures of where you mounted the camera please.

And my rear one.  Not really mounted.  Have to switch the cable around so the right angle is in the rear.  Otherwise the connector hits the roof limiting how high I can mount it.  Works for now and window operates normally.  

20191227_181449.jpg

Edited by Philipgonzales3
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Any news on this?  Single dashcam or Dual?  Have you had any TPMS issues or proximity sensor issues or key fob range issues.  Supposedly the power cable on some devices can cause interference with these things.
 
See my post for the issues I'm having. 
 
  

I read your post but I am not having those issues.
I have just a single front cam. I’m currently still having the static discharge after truck has shut off.
My hard wire kit only has one power wire that I ran to the ACC fuse of the heated steering wheel. I am wondering if this is my problem of only having one positive/power wire instead of two power wires like other hard wire kits.

My two thoughts that I am debating are:
1. Changing The current hard wire kit back to the constant power of the garage door button.
2. Getting a new hard wire kit that has three wires with the two power wires and running one to the accessory fuse and one to the constant power fuse.

Right now the dash cam is recording while I am driving. It is not recording in parking mode or motion sensor mode. I am pretty sure from the directions that those two modes need the constant power fuse.
A couple pics showing it on the passenger side next to my valentine V1 radar detector: 731139ddc9a0f0fb58334b4bcacc1f7e.jpg5e4ee10238eddaf7a4410099b4bfa80a.jpg
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2 hours ago, Michael2020AT4 said:


I read your post but I am not having those issues.
I have just a single front cam. I’m currently still having the static discharge after truck has shut off.
My hard wire kit only has one power wire that I ran to the ACC fuse of the heated steering wheel. I am wondering if this is my problem of only having one positive/power wire instead of two power wires like other hard wire kits.

My two thoughts that I am debating are:
1. Changing The current hard wire kit back to the constant power of the garage door button.
2. Getting a new hard wire kit that has three wires with the two power wires and running one to the accessory fuse and one to the constant power fuse.

Right now the dash cam is recording while I am driving. It is not recording in parking mode or motion sensor mode. I am pretty sure from the directions that those two modes need the constant power fuse.
A couple pics showing it on the passenger side next to my valentine V1 radar detector: 731139ddc9a0f0fb58334b4bcacc1f7e.jpg5e4ee10238eddaf7a4410099b4bfa80a.jpg

Hmm I personally would get the 3 wire hardwire kit.  Not sure about the static but I think that may just be RF interference.  But at least I'd think you'd get more use out of your cam with parking mode available. 

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Your method worked perfectly. Thank you. I did the power magic pro with the fuse tap so I can record in parking mode. I have a BlackVue dr900s 2 channel dash cam setup

A91CF390-3BD0-41B1-8B42-7E1273466616.jpeg

45F6F74C-6350-4D70-8A77-733B107C5569.jpeg

49AC4ED8-08CB-41EE-BDDB-178B519120DE.jpeg

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Is anyone else having issues with the dash cam shutting off when the truck goes into auto stop mode?  I know it’s a hated feature and I could turn it off every time I start the truck but it really doesn’t bother me any except for the fact that it turns my dash cam off. 
 

What really seems weird to me is that the camera turns off but the accessory that I have the fuse tap on stays on (like the heated steering wheel for instance) unless maybe it does turn off but the light on the steering wheel stays on. 

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On 11/26/2020 at 9:51 AM, mpappas87 said:

Is anyone else having issues with the dash cam shutting off when the truck goes into auto stop mode?  I know it’s a hated feature and I could turn it off every time I start the truck but it really doesn’t bother me any except for the fact that it turns my dash cam off. 
 

What really seems weird to me is that the camera turns off but the accessory that I have the fuse tap on stays on (like the heated steering wheel for instance) unless maybe it does turn off but the light on the steering wheel stays on. 

Good question. I might take my passenger fuse panel off before I install my next dashcam, let my buddy drive down the street and stop to initiate "Auto Start/Stop" as I jump out the passenger door with a voltage tester to test all the available powered fuses during "Auto Start/Stop". Just bought a new Thinkware U1000 on black friday, but wrapped it up for my wife to give me at Xmas. ?

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So from the consensus of this thread so far,
F3 (garage door opener) fuse plus F22 (heated wheel) fuse are working for everyone?  Then, also run the rear cam wire along driver side (instead of passenger side) as to not mess with TPMS sensors, etc., correct? 

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On 1/11/2019 at 1:33 PM, M3Master said:

So, this will be the high level version but it's super easy.  I've followed this recipe in all my cars for the last several years.  I put this together because a dash cam just saved my ass with respect to an accident.  Many of you offered valuable input on that and I appreciate it.  Get a dash cam!

 

Disclaimer:

This procedure works for me.  If you don't feel comfortable poking around in your fuse box, this procedure isn't for you.  If you don't have some of the fuses/options that I reference in this, you'll have to locate an alternative fuse which should be pretty easy.  Just be really careful poking around with a test light.   If you mess your truck up..it's on you.  Just keep in mind the concept of retained accessory power.  Something may appear to have +12v when you turn the ignition button off...but it may only be hot for a few min.  The way I checked this was to hit lock on my alarm remote.  From what I can tell, this should kill RAP.  If you still have +12V, then it should be a good source.

 

Also, if you have suggestions or see problems with my procedure, by all means shout it out.  I'm all for making a safer/better procedure.

 

What you need:

A dash cam.  I like the Garmin 45 but you have about a million to choose from.

https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Extremely-GPS-enabled-Recording-G-Sensor/dp/B06XFQTDQL

 

The hardwire kit for that dash cam. 

https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Parking-Mode-Cable-010-12530-03/dp/B06XTBPYS2

 

2 ATR/Micro2 Add-a-circuit Adapters

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ or Autozone

 

2 5amp Micro2/ATR fuses

Autozone!

 

10mm socket

 

Summary:

You need key on power for the camera.  If the camera you choose has a parking mode(the Garmin does), you need a +12v source when the ignition is off(not a RAP only source).

 

1.  Disconnect the battery negative terminal.

2.  Pull the fuse box cover on the passenger side of the dash board.  Grip the bottom and pull it directly away from the dash.  It will unsnap.  It is MUCH easier to remove on this truck vs. the previous generation.

3.  If you have a pull handle on the passenger side, remove the covers and the 2 10mm screws.  BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE WINDSHIELD.  IF YOU DO, YOU'RE SCREWED.  You don't really need to pull the handle, you just need to loosen it.

4.  Mount your camera in center/right side of the windshield.  Make sure to mount it far enough away from the review mirror assembly as to not have that in the field of vision.  You can also mount it on the right side of your windshield.  This particular camera has placement configuration in the software.  Technically you can mount it wherever you want!

5.  Plug in the cord to the camera and start CAREFULLY tucking in the wire along the headliner.  Be very careful about prying it down as to not damage the liner or crack the windshield.  Run the wire all the way over to the pillar/handle that you loosened.  Run it down the handle trim and tuck it in under the plastic and behind the weather stripping.  Run this all the way down.  The cord will pop out nicely right above the fuse box you just exposed in step 2.

6.  Gently pull the lower kick panel trim.  You may have to pull the scuff panel trip to remove it.  It just pops out and pops in.  Very easy.

7.  Behind that kick panel trim, there is a very nice ground.  Run your ground wire to that.

8.  For the +12v key on power, I used the heated steering wheel fuse.  It's a 7.5 amp fuse.  Pull that fuse out.  Add it to your add-a-circuit.  Put one of your 5A fuses in the other fuse slot.  Make sure you have the right fuse in the right place.  I didn't the first time and when I turned on the heated steering wheel it blew the fuse.  Strange that a 7.5A is enough but a 5A isn't.  Seems to be cutting it pretty close but what do I know.  Anyway, I reversed the fuses and put in a new 5A fuse and everything is good.  Plug your new circuit into that slot in the fuse box.

9.  For the +12V key off/battery power, I used the garage door opener.  It's a 10A fuse.  Seems to have power when the key is off.  Odd because it would seem that if someone breaks your window, the garage door opener would work.  Maybe it doesn't transmit or something but that circuit definitely has key off power.  Assemble your add-a-circuit w/ your fuses in the correct orientation and plug it in to the fuse box.

10.  Tuck in all your wires.  Use zip ties to bundle up the excess.  Make sure all your connections are good and secure.

11.  Reconnect your battery and make sure your camera works in run mode as well as parking mode.  For this camera when you turn the truck off, it should say "Starting parking mode" on the LCD...or something like that.  When you turn on the ignition/engine, you should see the camera power up.

12.  Assuming everything is good, put all your trim back in place and carefully reattach your pillar handle. Don't hit the windshield!

13.  Got for a drive and then check the video when you get home.  Make sure it's clear and free of obstructions.

 

Fusebox image:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z0hd6gptnsrupdc/2019-01-11 14.53.58.jpg

 

Hey bro, I made an install video using your specs since I could've used an install video prior to tackling my hardwire installation and I gave you a shoutout and linked to this thread (as it's the only one I could find on the interwebs about hardwiring dashcams into this truck). Works great, thanks! I'm sure I'll get some auto/alarm electricians all riled up over it, but your chosen fuses works for me! Here's the link in case it helps anyone else ... 

 

 

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