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Okay so I broke my foot a last month so my truck has been sitting during the winter. Just recently the check engine light has came on.
I used my code reader and is said the thermostat was running cold.
And the engine fan automatically comes on and stays on for a little even after I turn the truck off.
My question is there a simple fix to this? Or would this require a replacement?
Ok, I've got the tow mirrors, I have the recommends pins, and I know the pin locations in my case 9, 11, 41. What I cannot find ANY WHERE is how to correctly install the pins into the door connector the plugs in the X600. My understanding its important because if you screw up, well, your in big trouble. I've watch various YouTube videos but because of poor lighting, big hands, cramped space, small pins it's hard to see. So does anyone have anything that DETAILS the correct orientation when inserting pin in connector slot? Appreciated, thanks.
96 Chevy K3500 with the 5.7l It has about 215K miles. I am trying to diagnose a fuel pressure issue. My truck first started to run rough like it had a miss. Check engine light came on. I had codes for both banks being lean. I cleaned the MAF sensor with no change. I checked for vacuum leaks. I hooked up a scan tool and checked the LTFT for both banks. They are both at 25%. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the rail test port. Key on engine off it is around 45. As soon as the pump shuts off it almost instantly drops to 0. I am trying to figure out if I have a bad check valve in my fuel pump or if my FPR is bad. Before this all started, I noticed a loss in power. It could barely get a trailer up the slightest incline. I was trying to see if I could find out the difference in the speed of fuel pressure dropping when the check valve in the pump is bad and when the FPR is bad, to try and isolate the issue.
By AaronandAlicia Dailey
OK everyone I want to give thanks ahead for any advice and help.
Truck in question= 2003 Chevy Suburban Z71, 5.3 L Transmission= 4L60-E
So the story started when I was going down the road at about 50mph in cruise control, when suddenly I heard the engine begin to rev up. I hit the brake to take it out of cruise control and the engine stopped revving up. Apparently I lost transmission of power from the engine to the wheels because no matter what gear I put it into now, I get no movement from the vehicle. No reverse and no D1, 2 or 3. When I put the vehicle in park and attempt to push the vehicle it will not roll. When placed in any other gear I can then roll the vehicle freely.
Before this happened: Since owning the vehicle 4x4 has always been shifty.....hehehe...sorry couldnt help it. I have the model where there are 4 buttons with lights the buttons are located left hand of dash near the turn signal. When I first got the truck sometimes it seemed like it didnt want to switch between gears. for example I would have to hit the button multiple times before it would switch and even then it seemed like it hadnt really switched but the lights would indicate it had. Most of the time the light for the button I selected would flash multiple times and then return to previous selection. Often times after turning the vehicle off and then returning to vehicle to go somewhere I would find that the light has switched back to a gear that it wasnt in when i left the vehicle. It seems to favor 4x4hi. As of lately I havent been able to get the lights to switch at all. It seems to be stuck in 4hi permanently.
I have tested the 4wd switch and its fine.
I tried unhooking battery for half hour with lights on to reset PC. I then reconnected battery cable and turned vehicle on but not start it. Then I pulled a bunch of fuses and plugged them back in. ( seen it in a video and the guy said it was supposed to wake up the TCCM) Well that did nothing.
I have the truck off of all wheels right now and was trying to figure out if the transfer case is stuck in neutral. With the truck in drive as I turn the rear draft the front moves also. I am assuming that means it is in 4wd. But should I have someone hold the front drive shaft while i turn the rear drive shaft to confirm its not just from friction or something.
I actually have the front drive shaft partly out right now in an attempt to get at and remove the shift motor and manually put the transfer case into 2hi.
I am also considering changing out solenoids. I have gathered it is unlikely the shift solenoids. Is it possible it could be one of these:
1 * EPC (Pressure Control) Solenoid
1 * PWM Solenoid
1 * Manifold Pressure Switch
1 * TCC Solenoid w/Harness
Another thing I suspect which would be an easy fix is the transfer case fluid level. I removed the fill plug and nothing came out. I can tell it has been leaking. I would have already topped it off but I have been stuck at home (no running vehicle lol). Could low fluid cause this issue? I hope that's all it is lol. Anyways I got a ride to the store tomorrow and to look at a back-up vehicle. Anything you guys recommend to grab from the parts store while I'm in town tomorrow?
What would be your guys recommendation on how to solve this problem and fix it?
All help is appreciated.
thanks in advance,
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