The "Catch Can" Explained - By Elite Engineering

[Penguin VII]

19 hours ago, batman900 said:

Having owned an elite can in the past, my opinion of them is fantastic. If you want to see an expensive can with a nice website and terrible quality, IMO check out Mishimoto. I’m not biased on getting one vs not, but the quality is good in my opinion. 

I don't doubt the quality of the machining is good, I'm less clear on the engineering. I may end up pulling the trigger as I plan to keep the truck well into the 200k range (we will see how long these trucks last), just don't want to do something that ends up being a bad choice in the end.

[Joe@UPRproducts]

 

20 hours ago, Penguin VII said:

I don't doubt the quality of the machining is good, I'm less clear on the engineering. I may end up pulling the trigger as I plan to keep the truck well into the 200k range (we will see how long these trucks last), just don't want to do something that ends up being a bad choice in the end.

 

Take a look at the UPR Plug n Play Catch Can System as it's the only system that offers a TRUE Plug n Play™ Solution as our internal Diffuser System is tuned through Air Speed and Volume to ensure the PCV System will maintain the same or more vacuum to improve your MPG and overall Performance. This helps for a smoother idle than other catch cans that use cheap rubber hoses, small check valves, and or plastic fittings. Our Catch Can System will give you the confidence that our UPR Plug n Play™ Braided Hoses will not fail, collapse or ever come loose. The most important aspect is we deliver the best oil control and make sure to keep that PCV doing the very best job to give you the best ring seal and crankcase evacuation.

 

Most people don't realize that the more air that flows through their PCV, results in a fresher cooler air stream being pulled through the engine and cooling the internals and allowing for a cleaner stronger combustion. Last but not least, the benefits come from eliminating or reducing positive crankcase pressure of that fights the piston during each stroke. I wanted to keep this short and simple even though there are many other aspects of PCV basics that must be followed when installing a catch can and or modifying your PCV system.

 

We give you a Full plug n Play™ Catch Can System with every single component being the very best and spared no expense as we always strive to meet or exceed all the vehicle manufacturer standards.

 

You can PM us or ask questions anytime. Hope everyone has a great weekend.

 

Joe

UPRproducts.com

 

 

Edited August 10, 2018 by JoeCCS

['17 Sierra]

I have an Elite CC on my '17 and although I believe in them, I too would like to see an unbiased study of with and without CC's at 100K miles. A lot of guys have said that if CC's really did help, why haven't manufacturers incorporated them in modern engines? Most likely due to the owner not emptying the can. But if that's the case, why not have a drain line go from the can (air/oil separator) directly into the crankcase? Better yet, drain it to the inlet of the oil pump so it gets filtered first.

Edited August 10, 2018 by '17 Sierra

[Joe@UPRproducts]

Just a quick heads up as you can find unbiased tests all over the place like you are looking for if you search. I am sure there are even posts all over these forums. Manufacturers will not add yet another thing that requires servicing or maintenance on their vehicles. They are all trying to get away from manual services to the engine and even stretch oil life further denying how much it wears the internals. The drain line should never be connected back to the oil pan as it will just dump all the impurities directly into the oil pan and eventually destroy the oil quality and take out the bearings and short block over a very short time. 

 

I can be PM'd for selecting the best solution for all GM-Trucks members the first time around.

 

Joe

UPRproducts.com

Edited August 14, 2018 by JoeCCS

[Elite Engineering]

2 hours ago, JoeCCS said:

Just a quick heads up as you can find unbiased tests all over the place like you are looking for if you search. I am sure there are even posts all over these forums.

 

Yes, there's a ton of information on this forum and others of the many benefits and tests of adding a Catch Can.  As we have always said, take the Catch Can Challenge. 

 

Simply install an E2 or E2-X Catch Can inline AFTER any other Catch Can on the market and run for 1000 miles. Make sure both are cleaned and free of all oil and gunk first. Drain and measure and document what comes from each (our Catch Cans will have caught as much, if not more than the other Catch Cans, no matter their claims), this will show how much gets past the average can.
 
Now clean both again and reverse the order with our Catch Can first, and you will find almost nothing gets past it.  The E2 and E2-X trap 90-95% of the oil and other cans on average only trap from 15% to 30% max in most cases.  
 
Now, aside from being the most effective at stopping the oil mist and other contaminates that are present in the crankcase vapors, the E2-X also evacuates the crankcase at all times preventing pressure from ever building to begin with unlike a breather or vented that allows pressure to build and then vent to the atmosphere. (unless you have a broken ring or pinched ringland, etc.) and it actually removes most of the contaminates that enter as blow-by before they can settle and mix with your oil keeping the engine oil cleaner to better protect.

 

[Roscopcoletrain]

I don't think the test folks are looking for are on the catch cans catching stuff. Its on the motor after x amount a miles with and without one. Everyone knows they catch stuff. The question I'm seeing is does it matter after 500k miles. 

['17 Sierra]

2 hours ago, Roscopcoletrain said:

I don't think the test folks are looking for are on the catch cans catching stuff. Its on the motor after x amount a miles with and without one. Everyone knows they catch stuff. The question I'm seeing is does it matter after 500k miles. 

This is exactly what I was referring to in my post above. Take an everyday 5.3. or 6.2 with 100K miles on it, pull the intake manifold and take a picture of the intake ports. Then do the same thing on another motor with the exact specs as the first one that has had a catch can on it it's whole life and put the pictures side by side. Not rocket science. I saw a picture of two Harley motors side by side with the heads taken off at 8K miles. One piston head was covered with carbon and the other one perfectly clean. The clean one had it's crankcase breather venting to the atmosphere and the dirty one was stock, venting into the intake. The problem with that was that the company that made the external breathers are the ones that did the comparison. I have the Elite2 Catch Can and as I said, I believe in them but I'd like to see proof too....accurate unbiased proof.

[Mike GMC]

Unfortunately, unless the 2 trucks in the test above literally followed each other around for 100k miles and encountered all the same conditions, fuel etc, a much larger sample size of each would really be needed to account for engine manufacturing differences and tolerances.  Either way, this is VERY expensive testing so unless you're ready to start spending orders of magnitude higher prices for catch cans it's not likely to happen.

['17 Sierra]

6 minutes ago, Mike GMC said:

Unfortunately, unless the 2 trucks in the test above literally followed each other around for 100k miles and encountered all the same conditions, fuel etc, a much larger sample size of each would really be needed to account for engine manufacturing differences and tolerances.  Either way, this is VERY expensive testing so unless you're ready to start spending orders of magnitude higher prices for catch cans it's not likely to happen.

Maybe for an official, published account of the with and without but I think that's over thinking it. All I'm saying is that I'd like to see the two examples that I mentioned.

You're talking about a scientific experiment using a control and variables. 

Edited August 14, 2018 by '17 Sierra

[Mike GMC]

True, but without it there will always be the people with more questions.  Such as mantenance practices fuel quality, driving conditions etc etc.  I don't need a study of any kind to convince me of their worth, but some do.  To me it's common sense.  Keeping contaminants out of the intake is a good thing.  Even if the contaminants don't really do much harm or it turned out that the catch can doesn't really keep much out, the can certainly can't hurt.

[EarlGrey]

Ok, it took me more than an hour to read this whole thread [emoji23] . I have a '16 Sierra , 5.3 with 18,500 miles. I recently modded to a new Cold air Inductions intake and new exhaust. My next move was certainly going to be a catch can, but I must say, this thread gives me pause. Well that, and I called my dealers service department to ask their opinion regarding warranty and catch cans, and he never even heard of a catch can??!!

 

I have a few questions:

1. Is there an install video regarding ccs/ dual exit e2 with an aftermarket cai? All videos I see on YT are with oem hammerhead. And Is the threaded adapter included with cc? The reason I ask is because my cai has the valve cover leads as permanent. Meaning if the cc goes into valve covers, then I'll have 2 random hoses just hanging there (plugged off ,yes, but still sloppy looking)

2. Is the ccs the only reason I'd have to drill into the cai tube? Meaning dual exit, no ccs means no need to drill at throttle body.

3. The whistling/hissing: if I mount near brake fluid canister, does less hose mean less chance of noise and collapse? Would the upgraded braided hose negate this?

4. Can the hissing be heard clearly with the hood down?

5. Finally, this is mostly my daily driver with a child seat in the back of the crew cab [emoji1]. However, I plan on tuning it, and I like to go wot when getting on the highway. It's not a race car, and I don't drive it like one (mostly) So is a single exit Port good?

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Elite Engineering]

16 minutes ago, EarlGrey said:

Ok, it took me more than an hour to read this whole thread . I have a '16 Sierra , 5.3 with 18,500 miles. I recently modded to a new Cold air Inductions intake and new exhaust. My next move was certainly going to be a catch can, but I must say, this thread gives me pause. Well that, and I called my dealers service department to ask their opinion regarding warranty and catch cans, and he never even heard of a catch can??!!

 

I have a few questions:

1. Is there an install video regarding ccs/ dual exit e2 with an aftermarket cai? All videos I see on YT are with oem hammerhead. And Is the threaded adapter included with cc? The reason I ask is because my cai has the valve cover leads as permanent. Meaning if the cc goes into valve covers, then I'll have 2 random hoses just hanging there (plugged off ,yes, but still sloppy looking)

2. Is the ccs the only reason I'd have to drill into the cai tube? Meaning dual exit, no ccs means no need to drill at throttle body.

3. The whistling/hissing: if I mount near brake fluid canister, does less hose mean less chance of noise and collapse? Would the upgraded braided hose negate this?

4. Can the hissing be heard clearly with the hood down?

5. Finally, this is mostly my daily driver with a child seat in the back of the crew cab . However, I plan on tuning it, and I like to go wot when getting on the highway. It's not a race car, and I don't drive it like one (mostly) So is a single exit Port good?

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. Yes, there's an installation video listed on our website for the Dual Exit and CSS

2. The Dual Exit does require you to drill into the intake and add a threaded hose barb fitting.  The CSS should be plug and play

3. The upgraded hoses help, but what we found it's really a result of the extra length of hose.  So keep your hoses as short as possible, and avoid any sharp angles or bends

4. No.  Most do not hear anything

5. Yes, you can get away with a Single Exit Catch Can.

 

Why the "Dual" exit? -  On a NA engine, during acceleration, the intake manifold vacuum is used as the suction source to evacuate the damaging compounds entering as blow-by from the crankcase before they can settle and mix with the oil. But, when you accelerate, that vacuum drops to zero and no evacuation takes place. It is during these periods that the water, raw fuel, sulfuric acid, and abrasive soot, carbon, and ash particles settle and mix with the oil, and these cause the wear to the engine.

 

The Dual Catch Can (second Exit fitting) is used to tap into an alternate evacuation suction source. This source is typically at a location just in front, or upstream of the throttle body.  In addition, we use one-way inline check valves to open and close, to always default to the strongest suction source at the time.  This provides full time crankcase evacuation instead of only when not accelerating or at wide open throttle (WOT) when no vacuum is present.

[EarlGrey]

 
1. Yes, there's an installation video listed on our website for the Dual Exit and CSS
2. The Dual Exit does require you to drill into the intake and add a threaded hose barb fitting.  The CSS should be plug and play
3. The upgraded hoses help, but what we found it's really a result of the extra length of hose.  So keep your hoses as short as possible, and avoid any sharp angles or bends
4. No.  Most do not hear anything
5. Yes, you can get away with a Single Exit Catch Can.
 
Why the "Dual" exit? -  On a NA engine, during acceleration, the intake manifold vacuum is used as the suction source to evacuate the damaging compounds entering as blow-by from the crankcase before they can settle and mix with the oil. But, when you accelerate, that vacuum drops to zero and no evacuation takes place. It is during these periods that the water, raw fuel, sulfuric acid, and abrasive soot, carbon, and ash particles settle and mix with the oil, and these cause the wear to the engine.
 
The Dual Catch Can (second Exit fitting) is used to tap into an alternate evacuation suction source. This source is typically at a location just in front, or upstream of the throttle body.  In addition, we use one-way inline check valves to open and close, to always default to the strongest suction source at the time.  This provides full time crankcase evacuation instead of only when not accelerating or at wide open throttle (WOT) when no vacuum is present.

Ok thanks,
The videos seem to be with oem hammerhead box. Although, I did find the picture diagram with the cai. Looks like one side goes from mit to clean side separator and the other gets plugged.
How do you handle the needed extra length of hose to reach from mit to ccs?
And all of this is mute if I go with single exit? Mit just goes/or stays in proper place?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[Joe@UPRproducts]

I would absolutely go with the single valve for your application As properly designed catch can is a great investment for the longevity and protection of every engine. It increases plug life and reduces tune-up frequency. Best benefits is the overall MPG will be higher and Crisp Throttle Response will always be there by eliminating oil from entering your cylinder giving your engine the cleanest possible combustion.

 

UPR does offer a Complete Plug n Play™ UPR Catch Can System. Requiring NO hose cutting, NO hose clamps and looks better than an OEM product. You can see it on under the Chevy and Dodge section of the UPRproducts website. Part number 5030-231 for satin and 5030-231-1 for black are the correct part numbers.

 

All UPR Catch Cans come with OEM Insta-Grip Braided Hoses and OEM Plug n Play™ fittings to give you the very best components available.

 

Thank you, Joe

[EarlGrey]

Ok thank you,
There are a few things I'm still hung up on.
In no way am I trying to debate, it's just honest questions I can't shake:
I get that you can see real results by simply watching the videos etc, and that the can actually works by collecting oil. But really, does it matter? It seems that all the moving parts, seated bevels on valves etc would remain clean. This just helps in keeping the surface areas (valve stems etc) from getting corroded/gunked up.


The moisture that is collected in the colder months, couldn't that just as likely be the can itself? The same science that explains condensation in the crank and block could just as easily be applied to the metal cc, right?





Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk