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By kevin camps
driving a 97 k2500 camper special, 4l80e with 454 vortec
couple days ago I got in my truck after work and noticed it would stumble when hot, 100C no problem but a little bit warmer and i would have issues. always under load during acceleration. got home and idled in drive and it felt like an obvious misfire, RPM would drop to about 500. pop it in neutral or park and no misfire or stumbling, its been confusing me since in the mornings when i pull it out the garage it has no problems all the way to work (5 minutes highway and 5 minutes city) but end of the day and evening- same issue
bought the truck with 268km now has 276, oil change every 5000k.
did fuel pump (48psi at idle now) FPR, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires and plugs, ran seafoam through the intake and in the fuel tank.
ive heard of distributor gears going south but id assume then i would have the issue when cold too. runs like a top at any temp below 100C, no engine light, plugged the scanner in anyways and no codes whatsoever.
any help is appreciated, looked through forums for a couple days now but nothing exactly like what I'm experiencing.
kevin,
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By Tom_1991
Recently (9 and 10th Oct.) had a drive with my friend (2008 Ford E-350 with 6.0 diesel) in Eastern Sierra area, used route CA-88(Stockton - Alpine Village), 89(Alpine Village - Topaz Lake), 168(Bishop - Sabrina Lake), 120(Mono Lake - Manteca), US-395(Topaz Lake - Bishop), Virginia Lakes Rd.
The highest altitude was 9900+ ft at Virginia Lakes, and had a one-night camping at North Lake at 9300+ ft.
The performance is expected, it performs like a mid or early 90s Toyota Corolla with 4 adults on board.
At the climbing on US-395N, north of Bishop, (37°28'56.9"N 118°34'52.5"W or 37.482478, -118.581256 ), it can barely maintain 70mph, with the stupid and annoying transmission jump between 3rd and 4th gear. I believe it can actually maintain 70mph without problem if the transmission doesn't mess it up. I am planning to convert it into switch-flip manual or use stand-alone controller.
And the climbing on CA-168 is really a struggle, barely 40mph, with the stupid and annoying transmission again, jumping between 2nd and 3rd gear, until I have it enough, simply put the shifter at 2, let it revs at 3500 rpm, while 4000 is the red line.
So is it performs normal? Any advice on high altitude driving and tuning? Like base ignition timing?
The first day, the climbing on CA-88, 89, 168 and Virginia Lakes Rd, my new air filter is higher than original slight a little bit, caused the air cleaner lid can't seal, let hot air in engine bay get sucked in, I guess it's probably make the high altitude air density problem worse. The next day, I made a gasket with shop towels to seal the lid. I feel it performs better, but since I was grouped with my friend, I can't do the test on the same route to see if it really make difference.
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My vehicle: 1994 Chevy Suburban K2500 Silverado, 454TBI (L19)+4L80E, with towing package, 178k miles. Purchased used at 150k miles.
Engine was rebuilted at 75K miles, which is the only known thing, assuming other things are stock, transmission and torque converter are factory original and weresn't rebuilted.
New air filter, Engine oil changed at 175k (Mobil full synthetic), transmission oil changed at 150k.
Coolant / water is 60%/40%, new radiator cap, no boil happened. (Prestone for GM, orange color)
New spark plugs & wire, ignition coil, ignition control module, fuel filter, fuel pump, thermostat at 150k (right after I purchased it).
//edit: O2 and MAP sensor are also new, ACDelco.
Base ignition timing is 8 BTDC, factory is 4.
Load: 1 person (me), camping gears, road emergency kit and 2 boxes of tools for emergency, no trailer.
Fuel: Chevron or Shell 91.
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By DiaNali
I just bought a pre-owned 2015 Yukon Denali and I Love it!
I've been waiting for the feel of a big V8 engine with 4 wheel drive so this girl can dirty on any road.. It's beautiful and I'm SO happy to own a sexy Denali.
I've only had it for two weeks so I'm learning every thing about it with each drive. So far the engine purrs and all gauges read level. It's got 98k mi on it
so I'm expecting it to have some wear and tear. So just yesterday morning I pulled away from a stop sign and gave a good rev got up to 50mph in a few sec...
and as I approached a slow zone I took my foot off the gas.. lowered speed to about 25 then gave it a little more gas while going up a slight hill in the road and I hear what sounded like a knocking noise. I took my foot off the gas and the sound went away. So on the drive home where I have to ascend up to about 2200 ft elevation it did it again as I was coasting and had to accelerate from 25 to around 30 mph I kept my foot on the gas this time (engine sounding smooth as silk) and continued uphill about 45mph and the sound went away. It's always a short knocking/rattling sound. Not in the engine but below me, definitely upfront.
I've got an appt at GMC next week but until then I'd love to figure it out. Not sure what other details you need but any one got any idea?
Thanks everyone!
-Dia
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By ArcticCatIV
About 1 year ago I replaced the engine in my 1989 suburban v2500 with a 5.7L tbi engine in it, I used another chevy 350 from summit racing and used most of the old Accesory drive then, about 6 months after I completed the build it noticed a loud rattling noise that sounded like detonation to me but only under low speed acceleration and it would stop when I let my foot off the gas, so I began troubleshooting the issue. I replaced the egr valve, put colder spark plugs in it, replaced the knock sensor, tried high octane fuel, retarded the timing adjusted the valve lash and now I am lost, the noise only gets worse the more I drive it.
Any Ideas?
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By CoffeeMonster
Can a 454 W engine code bloc be used to replace a N code bloc?
I have a seized up 454 N TBI engine and a good running 454 W 4bbl. I just want to swap blocs and keep the TBI running.
It's in an early 90's motorhome and it's just to keep it running around
THanks all
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