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Silverado issues.
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By mmm98
I have a 1994 Chevy C1500, 5.7L engine.
My truck idled high and I finally got around to replacing the idle air control valve. This didn't fix the problem and it continued to idle high. I determined the issue to be a vacuum leak, so I replaced my vacuum hoses and checked connections. I tested by spraying carb cleaner and the engine still bogged down at this so I cleaned the throttle body and made a new gasket for the throttle body because that one was falling apart. After doing this, the truck began idling extremely low. It threw the EGR code, so I have since replaced the EGR valve and EGR solenoid. Neither of these fixed the problem. Next on the list is to replace the throttle body gasket along with the distributor cap and rotor. Additionally, my truck will also struggle to accelerate.
The confusing part is this- there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to the low idle. Sometimes, the truck idles in park at 800-900 RPM and is able to adjust the idle to the load of the AC being turned on. Other times, it idles in park at what is most likely 300-400 RPM because it doesn't even register on the gauge. It does not seem to have any consistency as to if the engine is hot or cold- it just seems to be whenever it feels like it. This evening, while working on it, it started straight up once and idled great at 800 or so RPM and handled AC and headlight load. While the AC was running, we unplugged the wire that makes the AC compressor run- this dropped the RPM down to around 700 and it never recovered from that. The truck was turned off and started again. This time it idled around 700. Truck was turned off and started again- this time it idled around 500-600. The truck was turned off and now it had to be given gas to start and idled low, around 400-500.
Any ideas to explain what is causing this? We are all going mad trying to troubleshoot this and figure it out. We've checked so many things and nothing seems to be causing the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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By ChalupaBatman
2014 Sierra 5.3
My truck developed a new shake/hard vibration. While in park I feel it a little, but when I shift to Reverse the shakes starts. Then when I shift to Neutral, it's stops. When in drive, the shakes starts again.
Blower motor seems to be fine.
While in Park, the motor and belts look normal. As well as under the truck, nothing seems to be moving.
Engine mounts looks solid.
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By NorthIdahoTexan
Experienced a one-off braking issue while descending a 7% grade. Had driven ~100 miles, stopping as needed with no issues. Began descending about 3 miles of maximum 7% grade touching the brakes infrequently as my 2018 Silverado 2500HD Duramax does a great job of reducing speed when off the petal. No towing selector, downshifting, no engine brake engaged. I’m just about to level ground, slowly apply my brakes and HELLO! Front-end/wheels start shaking like I’m about to throw a wheel. I feather braked to a stop on a side street, checked for play in the wheels and nothing evident. Continued another 120 miles, up hill/down hill, two 9% grades and only one instance of a very light wobble.
Suggestions/similar situations?
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By Guinnessmike
I have a 2016 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L engine, 111k miles. About 6 months ago I changed the spark plugs & wires and one of the wires accidently got pulled out by the stupid long bolt in the steering shaft that run way to close to one of the spark plug wires. The truck misfired but I was only a few miles from home. I limped it back, realized the problem, plugged the wire in and all seemed good. Unfortunately, 10 miles later the check engine light came on again, this time just showing P0420 code (catalyst efficiency below threshold, Bank 1). I changed all (4) of the O2 sensors, but the code came back after 10 miles. I then bit the bullet and changed the drivers side cat with a aftermarket weld-on from rockauto, nope. I then paid a muffler shop to replace the passengers side cat (generic) and fix my sad welding on the drivers side. The light stayed off for about 50 miles this time but as always came back on. I then tried to put a spacer between the 2 rear O2 sensors to pull them out of the exhaust stream, light on after 10 miles. I even tried plugging the old 2 rear o2 sensors in the wiring harness and just zip tying them to the frame so they were breathing fresh oxygen, but still the light! My mechanic is out of ideas and suggesting taking it to the stealership and having them replace both cats again with the OEM setup for @$2000. I have almost zero faith that will solve the problem and that it will just be more money that I don't have going into the trash, and the dealer will just shrug their shoulders. Any other suggestions of things to look at/try before jumping off that cliff? I am a backyard mechanic with just a basic OBD2 reader. I do know that all (4) O2 sensors are putting out voltage, but really don't know how to interpret that data.
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By Michael Henrich
I have an '02 Sierra 1500, 4WD, Canadian built, 4.8L V8. It starts perfectly every morning and I have no issues while the engine is running. After the first start if i turn the engine off for more than 10 minutes I have a rough start and get intense fumes in the cab. If it's off for 10 mins or less it starts up without issue. Within the past 8 months I have replaced:
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
All four O2 sensors
MAF sensor
Catalytic converter
Spark plugs & wires
I'm not getting a check engine light and a code reader comes up empty. Any suggestions?
Mike
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