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15 hours ago, 14GMCZ71 said:

Anyone using this yet?  Don't want to start an oil debate.

Lol, bless your heart OP. Asks an oil related question, then states you don't want to start an oil debate. Have you ever read any threads about oil, tires, catch cans, lifts, tunes, what octane gas to use, or driving with your fog lights on during the day??? These are all automatic debate starters (see previous posts to mine). I appreciate your optimism though :D

 

FWIW, I do my own oil changes and have only used Mobil 1 full synthetic oil/filters in my last 3 GM vehicles. Never had an issue and all vehicles were sold with 200k+ miles on them. As mentioned by others, I do know guys who swear by AMSOIL. I recently bought their severe gear oil and ATF products to do my front/rear diffs and transfer case, so far so good.

Edited by midwestdenaliguy
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Here is a quote from GM

“The New Vehicle Warranty would not be void simply because an owner failed to use proper engine oils or did not perform maintenance at the prescribed intervals. Warranty applicability is contingent upon the cause of failure.” 

Service Policies and Procedures Department, General Motors Corporation"

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31 minutes ago, elcamino said:

 

 

Here is a quote from GM

 

“The New Vehicle Warranty would not be void simply because an owner failed to use proper engine oils or did not perform maintenance at the prescribed intervals. Warranty applicability is contingent upon the cause of failure.” 

 

Service Policies and Procedures Department, General Motors Corporation"

 

Here is the preface to your copy and paste...

Automakers cannot deny warranty claims solely on the basis of using synthetic motor oil, and they cannot specify a certain oil brand to be used in their vehicles. Instead, they require the oil meets the appropriate API performance classification and SAE viscosity grade specified in the owner’s manual.

 

It is specifically referring to owners that use an oil and change interval other than what is recommended: GM uses "Full synthetic" with a SAE of 0W-20. If you're using something different than SAE 0W-20 and they have a way to find this assuming there is any oil left in the vehicle, warranty most certainly can be denied. Vehicle owners may appeal to a factory representative if the dealership and district manager do not satisfactorily settle the warranty claim. Factory representatives appreciate the value of used oil analysis and do consider preventive maintenance oil analysis reports in their evaluations of warranty claims, while post-failure oil analysis is critically important to the disposition of a warranty claim. Their findings pull more weight than the opinions of dealerships or district managers. 

 

I guess my question is why not just use the right stuff regardless of brand? Change your oil AT LEAST when the OLM says it's due and not worry about fighting a company should it fail? Your truck do as you wish but don't make statements that some may take as gospel. "Well, the guy on the internet said I could use this oil so it's gotta be true." While he sits there and reads his warranty isn't gonna cover his truck because he's been using lawn mower oil.

 

***It should also be noted that the oil does more than just coat your cylinders and crank...it also is instrumental in the proper function of the AFM system***

Edited by SS502
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IMHO, I’d assume that the oil would be tested by the dealership at the time it’s brought into servicing for an oil related engine breakdown. Case closed.... your oil is perfect, your oil is empty, your oil shows extreme neglect. Whatever the case, it’s up to the vehicle owner to do what’s required to keep up with their vehicles required by maintenance and warranty.


Sent from above

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Here is the preface to your copy and paste...

Automakers cannot deny warranty claims solely on the basis of using synthetic motor oil, and they cannot specify a certain oil brand to be used in their vehicles. Instead, they require the oil meets the appropriate API performance classification and SAE viscosity grade specified in the owner’s manual.

 

It is specifically referring to owners that use an oil and change interval other than what is recommended: GM uses "Full synthetic" with a SAE of 0W-20. If you're using something different than SAE 0W-20 and they have a way to find this assuming there is any oil left in the vehicle, warranty most certainly can be denied. Vehicle owners may appeal to a factory representative if the dealership and district manager do not satisfactorily settle the warranty claim. Factory representatives appreciate the value of used oil analysis and do consider preventive maintenance oil analysis reports in their evaluations of warranty claims, while post-failure oil analysis is critically important to the disposition of a warranty claim. Their findings pull more weight than the opinions of dealerships or district managers. 

 

I guess my question is why not just use the right stuff regardless of brand? Change your oil AT LEAST when the OLM says it's due and not worry about fighting a company should it fail? Your truck do as you wish but don't make statements that some may take as gospel. "Well, the guy on the internet said I could use this oil so it's gotta be true." While he sits there and reads his warranty isn't gonna cover his truck because he's been using lawn mower oil.

 

***It should also be noted that the oil does more than just coat your cylinders and crank...it also is instrumental in the proper function of the AFM system***

That reminds me ( happens a lot cause I’m older) when the Fords 4.6 engine first came out. It required a lighter oil than people were used to. Had to do with the long timing chain and the tensioners. People who insisted on using heavier weight oil ended up with a rattle caused by stretching the timing chain. That was caused by the tensioner stretching the chain do to too heavy weight oil. Of course those people were smarter than the manufacturer.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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24 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

I am still waiting for the explanation as to why the L86 calls for 0W20 yet the LT1, with the same rotating assembly, calls for 5W30.

I have read the answer to your question somewhere on the site.

So many posts...  LOL

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4 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

I have read the answer to your question somewhere on the site.

So many posts...  LOL

If I had to guess, I’d say the Vette and Camaro are probably expected to be driven much harder than the trucks but honestly don’t have a clue.

Edited by SS502
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5 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

I am still waiting for the explanation as to why the L86 calls for 0W20 yet the LT1, with the same rotating assembly, calls for 5W30.

5W30 would seem to be the logical choice but I’m old school. I run 15W40 Shell Rotella in the Chevelle.

 

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37 minutes ago, SS502 said:

If I had to guess, I’d say the Vette and Camaro are probably expected to be driven much harder than the trucks but honestly don’t have a clue.

Yet neither are expected to tow.

 

The REAL answer is CAFE.  Every little bit counts even at the expense of engine wear. I will be short change intervals through my freebies then moving to 5W30.

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I've always used Castrol Edge. Its ridiculous how much it quiet's down the engine/valvetrain; at idle and under load. Afm works a million times better too, snaps in and out with no hesitation compared to the gm full synthetic. (noticeable because of my catback)

 

 As far as l86 vs lt1 oil weight. I've read that the oil delivery system is different. Believe it supply's more of it, and faster because of the lighter weight. I believe gm went this route for fuel economy and colder climates. Who drives a Camaro or vette in -20 and lower?

 

*Edit*

 

Oil delivery is the same. But they are completely different applications, the lt1 revs to 6500 and the operating temp of the oil could be different. I'm thinking its likely the truck has a much better system to maintain oil temperature and possibly keeps it at a lower temp then the lt1's. And... 19 vette's/camaro's are coming from the factory with 0w40 now. No need to switch between different grades for street or track. 

 

 

Edited by M1ck3y
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11 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

I've always used Castrol Edge. Its ridiculous how much it quiet's down the engine/valvetrain; at idle and under load. Afm works a million times better too, snaps in and out with no hesitation compared to the gm full synthetic. (noticeable because of my catback)

 

 As far as l86 vs lt1 oil weight. I've read that the oil delivery system is different. Believe it supply's more of it, and faster because of the lighter weight. I believe gm went this route for fuel economy and colder climates. Who drives a Camaro or vette in -20 and lower?

 

*Edit*

 

Oil delivery is the same. But they are completely different applications, the lt1 revs to 6500 and the operating temp of the oil could be different. I'm thinking its likely the truck has a much better system to maintain oil temperature and possibly keeps it at a lower temp then the lt1's. And... 19 vette's/camaro's are coming from the factory with 0w40 now. No need to switch between different grades for street or track. 

 

 

i used Castrol Syntec in my 2002 SW...i did really like it...never had any issues...I think i switched to Mobil 1 on either marketing or research...Castrol markets to 'higher revving vehicles' maybe that was my main reason for switching...it served me good for years as has Mobil 1 though...

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15 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

Yet neither are expected to tow.

 

The REAL answer is CAFE.  Every little bit counts even at the expense of engine wear. I will be short change intervals through my freebies then moving to 5W30.

This,  GM sells way more trucks than Camaro's and Vette's so the difference for CAFE is huge when you multiply it with all the trucks being sold.  As far as engine wear, that is minimal at best.  There are vehicles on the road that have been running 0w-20 for over 200k miles with no issues.

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On ‎2‎/‎20‎/‎2019 at 5:36 AM, Jacoby said:

You guys tripping out about the lack of Dexos certification are funny. 

 

If something catastrophic was to happen to your engine there is no possible way GM could determine the oil you were using was Dexos approved or not. Absolutely none

 

you guys are paying a premium for a stamp on a bottle meanwhile the oil you’re using is no different from an identical oil without the stamp. 

 

 

That is a false statement.  The Dexos standard was recently even revised to higher standards for GEN2 and it has everything to do with deposit build up at high heat.  It's burn off or what is left is the problem child over the course of ownership.  

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