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I dont usually buy extended warranties but....


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Ok I dont usually buy extended warranties, but I hit 30K on this 2017 and in the course of a week Ive had to have a fuel injector replaced and an collapsed AFM lifter. Now I know the lifter would be covered on the 5/60  but the injector is not! Ive read of many issues of these two items on these trucks. The exteneded to cover up to 100k is 2k which covers these an many other items. Just wondering your thoughts?

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45 minutes ago, Jacoby said:

Never heard of injectors being an issue and lifters are few and far between

They are known to fail...DI injectors regardless of brand aren't as robust as port injection injectors.  

 

The question is what is the online cost of these DI injectors?  I'd presume it is a fairly easy DIY.  Everyone that buys a warranty quotes how much they "saved" when they get a dealer repair.  But would those same people have went to the dealer for the repair if it wasn't under the warranty?  I've done $300 repairs myself a dealer wanted over $1500 for.  Or dealer wants 2k but an independent mechanic will do the same job for under 1k.  

 

If $2000 gets you 5 years bumper to bumper ON TOP OF the 3 year factory bumper to bumper, that's probably not a bad deal.  That would be $400/year for bumper to bumper coverage on a 3 year old vehicle - there would be some value there.  

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I have the knowledge and probably most of the tools to do the injectors my self. The lifters not so much. In either scenario I would NOT take it to the dealer. I would have one the the mechanics at work do it or take it to a private shop. Its not full bumper to bumper but its close. It would be Ally Majorguard, which covers almost everything. I would have the 250 deductable on it. Im mildly annoyed about this whole thing. When they fixed the collapsed lifter they went ahead an did all four on that side. GM would not allow them to do the other 4. As far as the other injectors they are in spec. I also have had the leaf springs in the rear replaced because of the bushing issue,  and the AC control board, a light went out. 

 

 

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33 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

They are known to fail...DI injectors regardless of brand aren't as robust as port injection injectors.  

 

The question is what is the online cost of these DI injectors?  I'd presume it is a fairly easy DIY.  Everyone that buys a warranty quotes how much they "saved" when they get a dealer repair.  But would those same people have went to the dealer for the repair if it wasn't under the warranty?  I've done $300 repairs myself a dealer wanted over $1500 for.  Or dealer wants 2k but an independent mechanic will do the same job for under 1k.  

 

If $2000 gets you 5 years bumper to bumper ON TOP OF the 3 year factory bumper to bumper, that's probably not a bad deal.  That would be $400/year for bumper to bumper coverage on a 3 year old vehicle - there would be some value there.  

Not sure why you thought you had to sell me on a warranty as I simply said injector failure doesn’t seem to be an issue on these trucks. You make it sound like their failure is a common occurrence.   Would love to see something to back up your claim

With that said. I think you got your injectors mixed up. DI injectors are way more “robust” (interesting choice of word) then port injectors. All you have to do is look at the two to see that. DI injectors are made of metal because they have to handle high temperatures because of their placement in the cylinder and also have to handle higher internal pressures. Port injectors are made of plastic and don’t have to handle as much heat or pressure. As far as their cost goes, DI injectors only run maybe $50 more. 

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10 hours ago, Jacoby said:

Never heard of injectors being an issue and lifters are few and far between

The first time I dropped a lifted on my ‘15 6.2 actually didn’t drop was sticking & replaced- 2nd time one started going which was not too long thereafter it dropped just as I got to dealer, ended up replacing 2 more lifters + passenger side fuel rail due to it being “heavily oxidized” & damaged by tech removing it- was removed b/c a couple injectors also needed replacement. Write up about the experience somewhere on the forum.

 

all was well after that for about 20k miles just recently before I lost the truck to a wreck @ 62k miles started Getting “tinkling” sound on cold starts- probably another lifter.

 

you only got a 60k warranty on your ‘17- even w/ a 100k powertrain on my ‘15 if it did indeed have another lifter/injector/AFM issue again @ 62k I would’ve had the dealer fix but ordered a DOD delete cam kit @ same time & just replace it - get rid of the headache , gain some power, sound like a proper V8 truck 100% of the time.

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20 hours ago, Jacoby said:

I simply said injector failure doesn’t seem to be an issue on these trucks. You make it sound like their failure is a common occurrence.   Would love to see something to back up your claim

With that said. I think you got your injectors mixed up. DI injectors are way more “robust” (interesting choice of word) then port injectors. All you have to do is look at the two to see that. DI injectors are made of metal because they have to handle high temperatures because of their placement in the cylinder and also have to handle higher internal pressures. Port injectors are made of plastic and don’t have to handle as much heat or pressure. As far as their cost goes, DI injectors only run maybe $50 more. 

I own multiple DI motors.  There are many threads here with experiences of injector failure at low mileage.  

 

I understand the construction of a DI injector.  By robust, I am referencing their failure rate is much higher than a port injector.

 

As for pricing, I took a look at Rock Auto, as their pricing is generally one of the lower ones around for most parts.  I compared the L86 injectors to the L92, as that's about as close as we can get to a similar PI and DI GM engine.  L92 was $27; L86 was about $50.  I am very surprised the DI injector was so inexpensive; I've done BMW DI injectors which are over $200 a pop and unreliable.

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Warranty's are a calculated gamble. If you can't absorb a sudden $2k repair bill, then go for the warranty. I generally get a warranty for the length of the loan I have on the truck.

After the truck is paid off if you have a $2k repair bill that is basically 3 to 4 months of truck payments then the truck is basically paid off again.

My 16 lt has been one issue after another and if I decide to keep it I am glad I have peace of mind with the warranty.

Also usually it's the electronics I worry about. My wife's Subaru with all the cameras, sensors, blind spot radar, large touch screens, keyless push button etc, it was glad to pay for the extended warranty, it was about $15 month for 80k warranty bumper to bumper.



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I bought an extended when I bought my 18 new a couple months ago. 96 month bumper to bumper. No deductable.  IMO driving any new vehicle you plan to keep these days with all the electronics without an extended warranty is like picking up hookers and not wearing condoms.  You're gonna get burned.  I love my truck but I have no doubt I will use the warranty several times over next 8 years.  I also have no doubt that it would be the same no matter what I bought.

Edited by Mike GMC
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I’ve rebuilt motors,transmission, rear ends, hydraulics, no problems they don’t scare me. Electronics, computers, all that’s involved in cars and trucks, hell no Im buy extended warranty’s on those.


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  • 2 weeks later...

I am having the same problem with my 2016 it started about 4 months ago with only 47k miles now; after replacing spark plugs, o2 sensors and going crazy... dealer told me I have a bad injector # 7 however the recommend to replace all 8 injectors and while we are at it replace the fuel lines at a "discounted" price of only $1800.  ( it stinks to be asked to pay that much for truck you are still making payments on)

The service adviser pulled all the lame excuses; he even told me I have been putting some bad gas in there, I told him that it was the same gas that goes into the rest of the cars in my household and none of the other cars have any issues. (a Ford and a Honda that are running like champs with more miles)

Gordon and Partners is a law firm that has a office in the same building where I work; they have filed class action law suet in the past against car makers before for problems such as this one... as son as get around to it I will let you all know if we have a case and see if you would like to participate.

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