Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Sign in to follow this  
Bear1688

Sport Bar Lighting, Wiring & Switching

Recommended Posts

23 hours ago, Bear1688 said:

On a dumb side note, are you aware of anyone drilling drain holes in the bed , close to the cab? I park on a steep driveway and it often pools water. 

Mine came from the dealer with holes drilled near the cab and I also have a factory spray in liner. I’ll get some pictures of where exactly they are if you want them. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/5/2019 at 11:18 PM, EpicLT said:

Mine came from the dealer with holes drilled near the cab and I also have a factory spray in liner. I’ll get some pictures of where exactly they are if you want them. 

Very sorry about not responding sooner, been very busy. I would greatly appreciate some photos honestly. I plan on drilling my own and would like to see how others look. Anyone know around the cost of getting a bed coated?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/4/2019 at 12:04 AM, Crazyjoker77 said:

I've added tons of lights to my truck.  Started with adding 2 12" combo beam light bars on the GM sports bar.  These lights are absolute cannons.  Each light pulls 72W

 

bhqJVxG.jpg

 

QwYULDj.jpg

 

I was super impressed with the lights but there was a big shadow in front of the truck because the cab gets in the way.  So I added the rough country bull bar that has there 20" single row LED bar integrated.  This single light bar is flood optic and draws 90W worth of power.

 

jhds54y.jpg

 

HuCVJSS.jpg

 

This now provides a solid wall of light in front of the truck but still decided to add a pair of ditch lights for more side lighting.  This was a very cheap mod.  I got the pair of lights for 25$ and the hood mount brackets where 12$ for the pair.  Each light pod pulls 12W of power but has a very unique optic that makes a very wide beam of light.

 

Ess8z83.jpg

 

NNFW38o.jpg

 

Had some leftover leds laying around so I put them in the wheel wells.

lbIJObB.jpg

 

All the exterior lights are wired up to the factory upfitter switch.  Mounted the relays to the firewall behind the battery.  all the wiring is in plastic conduit and follows the factory harnesses.  I made one of the aux switches work as a master switch that turns on all the lights with the high beams.

ENGhzKK.jpg

 

Also threw some RGB leds under the dash and rear seats.  The controller for the lights are pull power from the driverside fuse panel and the colour/brightness are controlled with a RF remote.  

1nujvoI.jpg

2K73f2V.jpg

DV3M77z.jpg

 

 

How did you wire the factory upfitter switches?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2019-06-16 at 12:52 PM, 1500silveradocustom said:

How did you wire the factory upfitter switches?

 

I've posted numerous other times in other threads how I've done it.  Just search my posts you'll easily find it.  There is also a whole multi-page thread on the switches and whats needed to get them to work.

 

I went the easiest route and just ran a 4 pin cable from the back of the switches to a set of aftermarket relays mounted in the engine bay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

gonna sidetrack the thread and see if anyone knows what size the sport bar's bars are.  I got a free rough country 20" lightbar that I want to hang under the sport bar shooting back but need to order the mounting brackets.  I'm thinking there 3" but would like confirmation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

 

I've posted numerous other times in other threads how I've done it.  Just search my posts you'll easily find it.  There is also a whole multi-page thread on the switches and whats needed to get them to work.

 

I went the easiest route and just ran a 4 pin cable from the back of the switches to a set of aftermarket relays mounted in the engine bay.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong with the search but I'm not finding too much. all I'm wondering is what wire did you use to get from the switch panel to a relay? If possible, can someone post the link to the original post that this is explained in. thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, 1500silveradocustom said:

Maybe I'm doing something wrong with the search but I'm not finding too much. all I'm wondering is what wire did you use to get from the switch panel to a relay? If possible, can someone post the link to the original post that this is explained in. thanks

 

I used a 10' USB extension that I cut both ends off.  Works perfect as a USB cable is 4 shielded conductors in a nicely coated cable but really you just need any 4 wires to go from the back of the new switch to your aftermarket relays.  They carry almost no current so they don't need to be very big at all.

 

My truck had wires already in the plug that goes into the back of the switch but didn't have any of the other factory parts to do a oem installation so I just cut the wires and soldered my usb cable to the 4 wires.  (the yellow,red,grey,and blue striped wires in the following picture)

 

OL1r8gw.jpg

 

If your truck doesnt have those wires to scavenge GM does sell pigtails that will plug into that black connector that you can crimp/solder your wires to.  GM Part Number: 13575783 .  They are kinda of expensive though at almost 13$ each (the part number is a single connector with about a 4" wire crimped to it so you need to order 4)

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Rhett VanZandt
      Hello,
      I just recently got some additional lights to put on my offroad bumper, and don't know where exactly to put the switch or how to integrate it into my dash. I just need to be able to add two sitches. I was thinking of trying to put them near the parking brake, or on the instrument panel. The instrument panel already has two spots not being used but they don't press down. Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
      Thank you.
    • By DJPepper
      So I'm living out of my truck now while I save some funds to by a houseboat in San Diego. I just bought a cheap inverter from walmart to run my laptop and I'm wondering what implications this has for my battery. I have an ACDelco silver line (30 month) that's about a year old and has never had excessive drainage. So I guess my question is what exactly is the excessive drain limit? I mean is there a minimum voltage I should keep in mind to avoid premature battery failure. Obviously I want to avoid a no start condition. What voltage could that occur at? I'm just charging my laptop with it (130w charger) and am assuming running it while the engine is off is fine for a while. I tried to google and youtube for some answers but was inundated with garbage results so hopefully this question is fine here. Any other inverter related advice that might not be obvious to consider would be appreciated too. And inverter recommendations. I'm pretty sure this is a modified sine wave (cheap, Everstart plus 400w), are the true sine wave models worth it?
    • By youn1033
      For sale are my Chevrolet LED Tail Lights. I originally purchased these to replace my existing tail lights but had a change of heart and painted my existing housings instead. In great shape and will be cleaned and polished for new owner. Asking $400 ($420 shipped)
       
      If you have any questions or want additional pictures, shoot me a message,


    • By h1000101b
      I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc.
       
      MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU
       
      My goal is to add the following:
       
      1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi)
      2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78)
      3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit)
       
      From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows:
       
      1. Install the Alternator
      2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery
      3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A)
      4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground
      5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A)
      6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately)
       
      I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit).
       
      I decided not to do either.
       
      The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio  to reduce lights from flickering.  The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries.
       
      The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues.  I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice.  I'm still a bit on the fence on this one.  But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues.
       
      I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.
       

       
       
       
    • By Samuel Blackwell
      I have been trying to wire up a new stereo for my 2005 express, and I have already cut the factory harness (oops). The problem I have is that I cannot find out where the accessory wire is, and consequently the new unit will not shut off with the car because it's only wired to the 12v constant. I gave tried to use a multimeter to find the accesory wire by having the key in the on position and seeing which wire reads 12v, but the only wire I get a reading for is the 12v constant wire. Anybody know which wire is the accessory wire? Or whether there even is one?
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    221,275
    Total Topics
    2,371,091
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    208,807
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Michael Rogers
    Newest Member
    Michael Rogers
    Joined
  • Who's Online   23 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,359 Guests (See full list)



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.