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By Rhett VanZandt
I just recently got some additional lights to put on my offroad bumper, and don't know where exactly to put the switch or how to integrate it into my dash. I just need to be able to add two sitches. I was thinking of trying to put them near the parking brake, or on the instrument panel. The instrument panel already has two spots not being used but they don't press down. Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
So I'm living out of my truck now while I save some funds to by a houseboat in San Diego. I just bought a cheap inverter from walmart to run my laptop and I'm wondering what implications this has for my battery. I have an ACDelco silver line (30 month) that's about a year old and has never had excessive drainage. So I guess my question is what exactly is the excessive drain limit? I mean is there a minimum voltage I should keep in mind to avoid premature battery failure. Obviously I want to avoid a no start condition. What voltage could that occur at? I'm just charging my laptop with it (130w charger) and am assuming running it while the engine is off is fine for a while. I tried to google and youtube for some answers but was inundated with garbage results so hopefully this question is fine here. Any other inverter related advice that might not be obvious to consider would be appreciated too. And inverter recommendations. I'm pretty sure this is a modified sine wave (cheap, Everstart plus 400w), are the true sine wave models worth it?
For sale are my Chevrolet LED Tail Lights. I originally purchased these to replace my existing tail lights but had a change of heart and painted my existing housings instead. In great shape and will be cleaned and polished for new owner. Asking $400 ($420 shipped)
If you have any questions or want additional pictures, shoot me a message,
I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc.
MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU
My goal is to add the following:
1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi)
2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78)
3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit)
From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows:
1. Install the Alternator
2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery
3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A)
4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground
5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A)
6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately)
I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit).
I decided not to do either.
The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio to reduce lights from flickering. The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries.
The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues. I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice. I'm still a bit on the fence on this one. But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues.
I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.
By Samuel Blackwell
I have been trying to wire up a new stereo for my 2005 express, and I have already cut the factory harness (oops). The problem I have is that I cannot find out where the accessory wire is, and consequently the new unit will not shut off with the car because it's only wired to the 12v constant. I gave tried to use a multimeter to find the accesory wire by having the key in the on position and seeing which wire reads 12v, but the only wire I get a reading for is the 12v constant wire. Anybody know which wire is the accessory wire? Or whether there even is one?
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