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25 minutes ago, PabloK said:

Yes, I installed it, yes I know what I'm doing (past life working for car audio shop) doesn't mean I don't make mistakes though which is why I'm asking here.

iPhone is garbage (LOL) I use hard wired Android.  At time of the original post I was using Pixel 3XL but my new 4XL does the same.

Yes, it firing I can feel it.

Wiring was good other than the spare connector near the sub.  My wiring harness had one connection at the sub and another connection to the amp but there is a third connector that doesn't go anywhere.

I will move the switches back to original today and try it again.

Everything was off when I plugged in the bass control knob.

Maybe ShopChevyParts sent me garbage lol

Thanks for making suggestions (maybe see if you have a spare connector?)


Did you install it? Do you have experience with kind of stuff? It’s not noise canceling.

What’s your source? iPhone hardwired is best, get song with bass (Ini Kamoze - World-A-Music) is often used in audiophile community.

First is it firing? Jam your hand under there and you can easily feel the sub and how hard it’s hitting.

Look over your wiring, triple check.

Put the dials back in orig config. That’s critical

Make sure the system is off and no power before plugging in bass knob or it will throw off entire systems gain.

There is nothing different between my AT4 and your Denali that would affect this. The sub, when properly installed, shakes my truck.

It’s either installed incorrectly or your amp is dead.



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I did have the knob. It’s was just a waste of time if you already have the Bose system
 


Are you listening to music from the 40s?

The “top tier” Bose system is barely acceptable for this $ range and it being the year 2019.

The $450 sub makes it significantly better from a bang for your buck point.

Solid critical feedback as well “waste of time”?


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Sorry didn’t mean to get basic, I dont know how much folks know about this stuff...I got mine from same place....

Maybe you got a dud?

Buy a 2nd unit from someplace with a good return policy, swap the amp.

Otherwise... do you have the correct bass knob? Have you done the fade test to see if it’s clipped in to ffront passenger speaker?




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1 hour ago, PabloK said:

Sorry didn’t mean to get basic, I dont know how much folks know about this stuff...I got mine from same place....

Maybe you got a dud?

Buy a 2nd unit from someplace with a good return policy, swap the amp.

Otherwise... do you have the correct bass knob? Have you done the fade test to see if it’s clipped in to ffront passenger speaker?




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I might go that route or see if I can find just the amp.  Did you have the spare connector near the sub not hooked up to anything?

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7 hours ago, PabloK said:

 


Did you install it? Do you have experience with kind of stuff? It’s not noise canceling.

What’s your source? iPhone hardwired is best, get song with bass (Ini Kamoze - World-A-Music) is often used in audiophile community.

First is it firing? Jam your hand under there and you can easily feel the sub and how hard it’s hitting.

Look over your wiring, triple check.

Put the dials back in orig config. That’s critical

Make sure the system is off and no power before plugging in bass knob or it will throw off entire systems gain.

There is nothing different between my AT4 and your Denali that would affect this. The sub, when properly installed, shakes my truck.

It’s either installed incorrectly or your amp is dead.



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@Pturn, i can also attest to this. When the kicker is playing, it shakes the back window and i can hardly see through the rear-view mirror. Thankfully I have the rear view mirror camera so i don't need to worry about the back window vibration. 

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[mention=189213]Pturn[/mention], i can also attest to this. When the kicker is playing, it shakes the back window and i can hardly see through the rear-view mirror. Thankfully I have the rear view mirror camera so i don't need to worry about the back window vibration. 

Oh yea, one song makes my HUD vibrate to the point I can’t read the numbers


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On 10/31/2019 at 7:03 AM, PabloK said:

 


Your looking at $3300 in parts to do that setup properly. (Not some hillbilly amp from bestbuy).

Plus your average joe will need it installed which is easily $300-500

Who’s going to dial in the tuning? Hard to find a installer that gets the mic out and creates a specific DSP file for you.

Then to Run that setup with our $5 paper cone Bose speakers? If you have money to burn, yea it’s a solid setup, the box is overpriced though.. and you’ll overpower and drown out your mains..


for $450, find me a factory tuned class d 32bit amp, sub, and sealed box with a factory fit.


And I’m not taking a dump on JL... I have 3 stealth boxes with w6s and a 8inch w7 paired with a 13w7 in my boat..


If you just need that kind of bass,

Get a hertz or w7 10 inch, custom built pine box, sealed, best amp you can afford (if JL, no less than $800). That will acoustically sound better, and hit harder than those 2 shallow w6s




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My set up was only $1700 -- all in.  

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On 10/31/2019 at 8:42 AM, Pturn said:

I might go that route or see if I can find just the amp.  Did you have the spare connector near the sub not hooked up to anything?

 

I had an extra that wasn't plugged into anything. When I was looking at it, I believe it is only used when you get the system for the trucks without Bose that has the additional amp and DSP. I just electrical taped over the connector and buried it with the rest of the wires.

 

I can say for the $450 or so I spent on it I'm pleased with it. I actually have to dial it down on some tracks. I'm running a system in my car that has PPI Art series amps Hertz components and JL subs and yeah the kicker is not in the same league but I also dont expect it to transform my truck's stock system into what I have in my car. It's all about managing expectations. 

 

If anyone installed the kicker sub and it does not shake your rearview to the point of not being able to see out of it I highly suggest you check your install.

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On 10/29/2019 at 2:55 PM, Wakezilla said:

Ok, I finally got my system installed. I have a 2019 Silverado Crew Cab with Bose.  It hits hard and deep and clean.  I did not want to fork out the $1500 for the JL Stealthbox with 2 of their thin 12'' subs.  I've always had the W3s and loved their clean deep sound and didn't want to risk being dissappointed with their thin subs. So I did a lot of research and ended up with the following:  (PLUS, I saved about $500 overall doing it this way.)

 

 I hope this posts helps clarify some challenges/questions.  

 

Amp: JL JX-1000

 
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Jx500-Mono-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0081K3M5G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=jl+audio+amplifier&qid=1570760485&sprefix=jl+&sr=8-4
 
Amp Wiring Kit: (high quality stuff)
 
 
Subs: 2 x JL 10w3v3 4 ohm
 
 
Bass Volume Knob:  installed up front under the steering column.  Allows me to turn the bass all the way down -- just Bose system playing. Or up to desired level.
 
 
Box: (very happy with quality of build and fitment in my truck) I did apply some additional caulk inside the box where it looked like some of the cracks were missed)
 
 
Wiring:
 
 
You'll need to determine if you have the 'noise cancelling' feature.  If you do, you'll see a microphone thing on the ceiling above your rear seat.  LLJ Customs can provide you a harness bypass plug as part of your T-harness purchase if you do.  I did not have that feature so all I used was the T-harness. 
 
You'll need to order a Line Output Converter (LOC) with the T-harness from LLJ so that you can get clean signal to your amplifier.  I went with the upgraded "active" LOC -- https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/ -- WHICH LLJ will hook up for you as part of the T-harness purchase.
 
NOTE: You'll need to remove the back seat from the back wall in order to run your wires and install the Lc2i.  I don't have a picture of it, but my installer used double sided sticky tape to adhere it to the back wall just to the right of some other electronic box that was alread in there. (there's plenty of room on the back wall for it)
 
Here's a good video that is helpful.  However when he talks about pushing down on the seat locks, don't do that.  I used a long allen wrench to lift up on the hook on top of the locking mechanism which made it much easier.  There are 4 10mm bolts on the bottom you'll have to use an extender to reach.  Once you get them started, you can remove them by hand.  
 
 
Here are some pics of my install:
 
 

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.42 PM.png

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Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.24 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-10-29 at 2.46.12 PM.png

 

 

 

 

 

UPDATE:  Added a custom plexiglass window with red LED lighting...

 

Screen Shot 2019-11-08 at 5.32.59 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-11-08 at 5.32.51 PM.png

Screen Shot 2019-11-08 at 5.32.38 PM.png

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So has anyone heard the difference between the  19417164 kit with just the kicker sub and the  19417165 kit with the additional amp?

Trying to decide between the two. $550 difference. Wondering if its worth it...???

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1 minute ago, qaton said:

So has anyone heard the difference between the  19417164 kit with just the kicker sub and the  19417165 kit with the additional amp?

Trying to decide between the two. $550 difference. Wondering if its worth it...???

If you have Bose you are limited to the 19417164 kit. 

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GM is offering 20% off online purchases with code HOLIDAY20A through 12/2/2019.

Im looking to pull the trigger, just cant decide which audio upgrade to get. I do not have the Bose so both are an option for me.

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How big of a difference does the second amp add to the non Bose system?  I am looking to upgrade all of my speakers and seeing how that sounds first vs spending the $1200 for the kit.

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Good evening all...Long time reader first time poster.  I received the Factory sub for Christmas from my family.  First time I have had in a week to do the install.  First off, sounds great right out of the box, but I am going to order the Kicker sub level controller(CXARC).  

Wanted to post that I found a different color combo for the twisted pair to tap into.   Mine were(took a wild guess after reading all of the post on this thread) Yellow/green and Yellow/blue.  I attached the green wire to the yellow/green and the brown wire to the yellow/blue.  I hope this  helps someone else out so you don't have to guess like I did.

 

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