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Anyone hve information on lifting a sonoma 4x4, there isn't many options out there and i don't want to Fab it? i'm looking for more clearance to enjoy the 4 wheel drive without loosing the ride integrity if possible
I have a 1991 gmc sonoma with 4.3 and I recently replaced idler pully and no more then a mile after replacement my truck stalled out. Immediately after replacing pully truck idled weird for a moment so I shut off the engine and restarted the motor. I took it for a test ride around the block and it seemed to be driving great as soon as i pulled back up to the shop the engined stalled out and I could not restart the engine. It seems like my fuel is being delivered to throttle body as i have replaced fuel pump and i am still having the same problem. The fuel lines have gas at the throttle body and i can hear fuel pump turning on . if I spray staring fluid it will crank but then it dies. I dont know if it is bad injectors or if its something else. About2 weeks ago i installed a throttle body spacer not sure if that has anything to do with this but I drove the truck daily and it was only after the pully install that this issue began. Please help i miss my truck
Hey y’all, new to the forum and to chevys here (used to drive an 84 Jeep CJ) and bought my K5 a few days ago
off the bat it came with a few problems the guy who sold it told us about, he said that the brake light bulbs would pop while driving, but we took it home (had someone drive behind us) and confirmed that we don’t have brake lights (the bulbs are not blown) or turn signals (front or back) and when we got home I confirmed that the backup lights and hazards (all four corners) do not come on either. And this didn’t happen when we first got it, but the morning after I found the interior light on and had to take the bulb out (wouldn’t turn off) in the fear of running out the battery
however, the taillights and the dailys (I’ve heard those little yellow lights on the sides called that before but I don’t know if that’s the proper term) do come on when the headlights are turned on.
ive checked the fuses for the brakelights and turn signals and nothing seems to be wrong with them, so I’m assuming there must be something wrong in the steering column, but I’m at a loss of how to go about fixing the problem, and I’d love to get some advice before i go about taking the thing apart or having a shop look at it.
anything is greatly appreciated, thanks!
By Andrew Giroux
Hello, I will be doing an engine swap in my s-10 fairly soon. The specific truck I have is a 1992 s-10 ext. cab 2.5l 4-banger, with RWD and a 5 speed manual.
What I am thinking for engine/ tranny is a Chevy 350 with a NV3500 transmission. It would be easier for me to find a 350 that already has a NV4500 married to it, but I have heard that it is difficult to fit a NV4500 in an s-10. I can't find any info for my exact model, so I'm asking if the combo of the 350/nv3500 will be a good fit. I won't be racing this truck, I just want more get-up and towing capacity. if you know of a better setup I am very open. also originally I was thinking of putting a 5.3 Vortec instead of the 5.7/350 but everyones been saying the 350 is easier.
I recently rebuilt the 4l60e on my 2000 S10 4.3L 2WD.
It was slipping out of 4th while in D so I drove it for a week in 3. Eventually, 3rd gear was slipping, especially when warmed up, so i decided to rebuild.
I got a vacuum tested reman valve body from Shift Rite Transmission shop with the Sonnax TCC Isolator Sleeve installed. It included all new solenoids. I also got a reman pump (old pump was scored up inside) from same shop with upgraded Sonnax boost valve. I installed pinless accumulators and new Transgo seperator plate with new gaskets and new checkballs. I upgraded to Sonnax smart shell and installed Sonnax Heavy Duty 3-4 backing plate with appropriate steels and frictions. All new steels and all new HE frictions - All clearances (including input shaft endplay) within spec checked 3+ times. New Borg Warner Dual Input Sprag. New reverse input drum. New 2-4 band. New 3rd accumulator checkball capsule tested for leaks. Sonnax Servo Release Check Valve installed over it. Standard Toledo rebuild kit for seals and gaskets, etc.. Also, new VSS and new Neutral Safety Switch. All new bushings. 400 grit emery cloth sanded journals on everything. Cleaned MAF sensor with cleaner.
I diagnosed a leaking input drum housing at the shaft and got a new one with new blue rubber pistons. Old 3-4 clutch pack was in decent shape from before but still replaced new. Air-tested new input drum cold and it did not leak where the shaft and housing meet. The plate stiffener was loose during disassembly so after rebuild delayed thud into Reverse was fixed.
When I bought the truck about 500 miles before the 3-4 went out the CLUSTR fuse was blown causing limp mode. After replacing the fuse truck drove fine until 3-4 problem. This leads me to believe that there is maybe some electrical issue, but no code was thrown until the slipping got terrible. It was solenoid A electrical (P0748), which I replaced and code disappeared. It came on again a few drives later and then disappeared the drive after that no changes on my part.
During test drive after rebuild it was SO damn nice and smooth at first I couldn't believe it. THEN after it warmed up all of the 3-4 slipping returned and I had to drive it home in 2nd.
I disconnected the MAF sensor and drove it until warm to rule that out. No luck there. Slightly firmer shifts, but did not help slipping.
I'm thinking now that possible causes could be: New solenoids - one may be bad, The input drum doesn't leak when cold, but does when hot, The 3rd accumulator check ball is bad when hot (I wasn't too sure of my vacuum test being accurate, which said it didn't leak, so I tested with 50/50 solvent and ATF and it did not leak while cold), or there is a bad wire somewhere considering the original P0748 code that came on and off 2 times.
ANY insight or ideas would are very appreciated. I've spent countless hours on this and is my 1st rebuild.
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