I replaced these wheels with aftermarket at the 2,000 mile mark. They are like new, as you can see in the pictures. I'm selling them all together (four Denali wheels, the spare, and five Goodyear Wranglers with full tread life). The Wranglers are 265/70R18. The 8x180 lug pattern is for the HDs, but they can be adapted to different lug patterns if you're trying to update an older model truck.
They're all beautiful with no curb scuffs or damage of any kind. I'm asking $1800 for all, but I'm somewhat flexible on that if you make a solid offer early. You can come pick them up, or I'm willing to ship them if you're willing to pay the shipping. PM me if interested or post publicly if you have any questions that could benefit the group.
If you look at my post history you'll see why I had to change out these injectors so I'll spare that story. Since I never found a guide on this I hope this helps someone else who needs it. I by no means am a proper mechanic but I have done something's in the past it was moderate in challenge. So right to it. Tools needed 10mm deep socket,13mm deep socket 17mm open ended wrench, fuel line removal tool, different size extensions, a palm grip socket tool, pry bar or clip removal tool, flat head screwdriver.
Remove the plastic shrouds from the sides of the engine. Remove the oil cap and the hose from the air box on the driver's side. Passenger side just remove the hose from the air box. Now that that's done, remove the fuel pump fuse and start your truck until it runs out of gas congratulations you've depressurized the gas lines. Unhook the battery. Remove the air box in front by in screwing the hose clamps and remove the 2 hoses. Starting with the hose on the passenger side then remove the middle. Remove all the connectors Attached and the grommets holding them to the shroud. Then unscrew the four screws on the plastic shroud don't bother trying to take the plastic shroud off the engine just yet. Remove the 10 screws 10mm off the sides. Warning there is a tricky one in the back of the passenger side way back I had to use a palm wrench to remove it. They are not on tight so it's not a leverage issue it's getting your hand on them to turn. Once you have them loose (they do not come out the just get really loose) tilt the screw towards the outside of the truck and pull out. Start with the ones up front so you can see/feel how it's done so when you have to do it blind you will know. There is a harness connected on the back I took a pry bar and popped them out you can feel back there with your hands there are 3. Now slide the whole top right off lifting the front and picking up the back slightly to pull towards the front of the truck. Remove the foam shielding underneath and now you can see the fuel rails. From this point it's straight forward. Remove the line with a 17mm wrench. I took these all off to separate the rails and replaced them. Now you need to remove the clips from the fuel line the remove the fuel line on the driver side with a fuel line tool I did mine above the bracket and removed the bracket for space. Now unhook the two quick connect electric plugs from the back of the fuel rails. It's tough but you can just barely fit your hand back there. With a 13mm socket remove the bolts holding down the rails. I removed the rails separately. You can just pull them out it's a bit snug but you don't need to hulk them out they just kind of pop out. Once out remove the connectors pop the clips out and pull the injectors straight out of the rail. Mine came out without any issues. Replace same way they came out pop them in to the rail then clip back on making sure the two nipples are in the square hole on the clip you'll see it when you try to get them on. Place the rail back into the holes and if it's in right without the bolts it's won't just pop out it will have slight resistance and snug. Do this for both sides put the two connectors at the back back in. Reconnect the fuel lines from the middle working your way to the final snap in line. Place the foam cover on top and reassemble your top. Remember to double check the connectors. Do not over tighten, everything was hand tight removing and should be going back in. Once all reassembled put your fuse back in for your fuel pump reconnect the battery and turn your car to power it but not turn over let the fuel lines re-pressure. I did it three times then turned it over, started up drove it 20miles shut it off and turned it back on no check engine light and ran wonderful. Saved 2k it took me 3hours start to finish but I did this with no guide and no assistance if you can have a second pair of hands it's helpful but not necessary. If I had to do this again probably would estimate it taking 1.5hrs knowing you cannot remove the plastic shroud on the engine is pretty silly but it was the single most frustrating part of the whole ordeal.
I'm exhausted but I wanted to post this now so I didn't forget the steps I will re-read this tomorrow morning and edit or add things I missed. I will try and add pictures to this post. I did not take any during because you know you don't think of these things during but I hope this helps.
I recently purchased a 2017 2500 diesel GMC Sierra Denali. I also own a 40 ft 5th wheel with a dry weight of 12,700. The truck has a recommeded maximum towing of 13,500. Once we load up our truck and 5th wheel, we will be over the towing maximum. What type of damages could I be facing to the truck?
In my 2014 GMC Sierra AllTerrain model the compass display in the DIC, which displays just to the left of the cruise control indicator, no longer shows up. It just went away, I’m not sure exactly when, but, sometime in the last 8 months or so. I recall that over the last several months it seemed that the compass would sometimes be there, sometimes not. Now it is not there at all. That little digital compass can be handy in some places!
I spent 2.5 hours at the GMC dealer and one of their best techs looking over everything in this truck. There are no codes indicating a failure in any components in the truck. He updated all of the software modules, which had some updates/patches due, checked that the truck was receiving GPS signal (it is...), checked all of the functions of the DIC and infotainment center and found nothing wrong or anything to correct this. He finally took an educated guess that maybe because my OnStar had expired (I let it lapse, didn’t want to pay for it...) maybe that was affecting the DIC compass display. Then I went through the interactions to reactivate my OnStar account to see if that would have any effect, no effect, the DIC compass still does not work. At some point in my calls I ended up speaking to the the GM Infotainment Level 1 tech support about this issue and, while they tried to be helpful, what they could add was that from what they know of the DIC compass it has nothing to do with OnStar and should not be affected by OnStar being active or not, nor does the DIC compass get updated by GPS. But, they were not really clear on how that compass works.
Anyone have any ideas?
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