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chevydeth

6.2L 8spd 4.10 Gears Quote

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32 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


I’ve shown the proof, You’re all assumption, therefore assuming the towing capacity is not affected is not proof, the End!

Sorry OP, for going off post. I’m done here and as typical coming out of the woodwork


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so then CST is NOT FMVSS No.126 compliant also, odd for such a superior lift

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On 4/11/2019 at 9:39 AM, TXGREEK said:

OP, highly recommend you hold off on switching your 323’s out till after you do a lift especially because “I’ve actually got a lifted 6.2 with 323’s and can easily be tuned if you notice any slight performance difference which is what I did and LOVE IT! I’m also getting 19-20 mpg with a sport tune at 65mph and 18-19 doing 73-75 mph. I also highly recommend you talk with a gearing expert with lots of experience especially with your 6.2/323’s cause you don’t want to freak out losing mpg’s while not towing.

Speaking of lifts, CST Performance Lifts is something you may want to look at, far superior built lifts with reinforced gussets and full welds as well as excellent powder coating. A CST lift wont widen your track width giving you that wide goofy look requiring you to install controversial rear spacers and doesn’t widen your turning radius either. CST Lift doesn’t take away from your towing capabilities keeping stock towing rating. It’s an option especially if you’re considering keeping your truck cause the suspension is your trucks foundation.

https://www.newlevelmotorsports.com/cskc3191.html





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honestly i think people are just tired of you reiterating CST's talking points in thread after thread after thread. your comments are just about word for word taken from their website, it borders on plagiarism lol. 

 

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6 minutes ago, jimmyboy8301 said:

honestly i think people are just tired of you reiterating CST's talking points in thread after thread after thread. your comments are just about word for word taken from their website, it borders on plagiarism lol. 

 

DILLY DILLY 

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On ‎4‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 6:31 PM, chevydeth said:

 

Hey guys I am looking into lifting my 2016 Sierra 6.2 8 speed and throwing on 35’s. Before doing so I know it’s highly suggested to do a gear swap especially on 3.23’s. Below is what I was quoted for a gear swap to 4.10’s. I am by no means a gear expect so do you guys think this seems like this is a good price and parts list?

 

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For what its worth...

 

If you have no plans to tune the truck once its lifted and you have larger tires, so lets say you just do a speedo recalibrate and no gear swap. 

 

In 8th gear(0.65:1), stock tires (31.5"), at 60mph, you should be at 1360-1390rpm, give or take.  Lets say you want to keep that in line as an end goal, maybe a bit higher. 

 

If you throw 35's on, no re-gear, that drops you to 1200rpm at 60mph.  The truck will want to downshift a good bit more I would think, and probably spend a lot of time in 6th and 7th gear. 

 

Going with a 4.10, that would put you to approximately 1520rpm at 60mph.  With a 3.73, you'd be right at the stock 1360-1390rpm range. 

 

So, if you don't plan a tune with stock gearing, and you'd prefer to re-gear and leave the powertrain alone, I'd go no less than 3.73 ratio.  Both would offset the larger tires properly, and even with the weight penalty on the wheel/tire package, should allow a stock 6.2 to run very close to stock.

 

IF you do decide to tune, either with or without the re-gear, do a good tune.  Skip on the boxed crap, and find a reputable shop or someone like BlackBear Performance that can make a great custom tune that would work very well.   

Edited by newdude
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3 hours ago, newdude said:

 

For what its worth...

 

If you have no plans to tune the truck once its lifted and you have larger tires, so lets say you just do a speedo recalibrate and no gear swap. 

 

In 8th gear(0.65:1), stock tires (31.5"), at 60mph, you should be at 1360-1390rpm, give or take.  Lets say you want to keep that in line as an end goal, maybe a bit higher. 

 

If you throw 35's on, no re-gear, that drops you to 1200rpm at 60mph.  The truck will want to downshift a good bit more I would think, and probably spend a lot of time in 6th and 7th gear. 

 

Going with a 4.10, that would put you to approximately 1520rpm at 60mph.  With a 3.73, you'd be right at the stock 1360-1390rpm range. 

 

So, if you don't plan a tune with stock gearing, and you'd prefer to re-gear and leave the powertrain alone, I'd go no less than 3.73 ratio.  Both would offset the larger tires properly, and even with the weight penalty on the wheel/tire package, should allow a stock 6.2 to run very close to stock.

 

IF you do decide to tune, either with or without the re-gear, do a good tune.  Skip on the boxed crap, and find a reputable shop or someone like BlackBear Performance that can make a great custom tune that would work very well.   

His signature shows that he is Blackbear e85 tuned, so it should just be a simple reflash for him.  I completely agree, 3.73 should be the minimum ratio for a gear swap and 35s.  I would do a 4.10 swap with 35s for the extra grunt if it was my truck.  I gear swapped my NNBS from 3.73 to 4.56 gears with a 33" tire, and the truck felt like it got an extra 100hp, it was amazing (man I regret selling that truck).  Lets be honest here, if you have a 6.2 already, you bought it for the performance.

 

OP are you getting a quote for the gears and lift from the same place?  You should get a break on labor for the front differential since they will already have to drop it to install the lift.  Good luck man.

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His signature shows that he is Blackbear e85 tuned, so it should just be a simple reflash for him.  I completely agree, 3.73 should be the minimum ratio for a gear swap and 35s.  I would do a 4.10 swap with 35s for the extra grunt if it was my truck.  I gear swapped my NNBS from 3.73 to 4.56 gears with a 33" tire, and the truck felt like it got an extra 100hp, it was amazing (man I regret selling that truck).  Lets be honest here, if you have a 6.2 already, you bought it for the performance.
 
OP are you getting a quote for the gears and lift from the same place?  You should get a break on labor for the front differential since they will already have to drop it to install the lift.  Good luck man.


Yeah, probably going to have both done at the same shop. I’ve shopped around to all the other local shops and 4wheelparts seems to have the next competition beat by $200-$400. But that is a good point on the labor, I will have to run that past them. Thanks!


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For what its worth...
 
If you have no plans to tune the truck once its lifted and you have larger tires, so lets say you just do a speedo recalibrate and no gear swap. 
 
In 8th gear(0.65:1), stock tires (31.5"), at 60mph, you should be at 1360-1390rpm, give or take.  Lets say you want to keep that in line as an end goal, maybe a bit higher. 
 
If you throw 35's on, no re-gear, that drops you to 1200rpm at 60mph.  The truck will want to downshift a good bit more I would think, and probably spend a lot of time in 6th and 7th gear. 
 
Going with a 4.10, that would put you to approximately 1520rpm at 60mph.  With a 3.73, you'd be right at the stock 1360-1390rpm range. 
 
So, if you don't plan a tune with stock gearing, and you'd prefer to re-gear and leave the powertrain alone, I'd go no less than 3.73 ratio.  Both would offset the larger tires properly, and even with the weight penalty on the wheel/tire package, should allow a stock 6.2 to run very close to stock.
 
IF you do decide to tune, either with or without the re-gear, do a good tune.  Skip on the boxed crap, and find a reputable shop or someone like BlackBear Performance that can make a great custom tune that would work very well.   


I’m already blackbear tuned. Only reason I picked 4.10 over 3.73 is I do tow at times. I know the rpms will be elevated a little more and I’ll lose some highway mpg but I also feel more comfortable knowing having 4.10’s should give the transmission a little more of a break with the larger tires.


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16 hours ago, chevydeth said:

 


I’m already blackbear tuned. Only reason I picked 4.10 over 3.73 is I do tow at times. I know the rpms will be elevated a little more and I’ll lose some highway mpg but I also feel more comfortable knowing having 4.10’s should give the transmission a little more of a break with the larger tires.


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One other thing is that Yukon differential they are selling you is a OPEN  diff :       https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=13562

 

You'd be better off buying a factory G80 for the 3.42 trucks, they're pretty cheap through GM sites, and might be able to get better shipping from RockAuto or others: https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-differential-case-23404621

Edited by pewterliftedz

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