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By Seth Trebatoski
New to this site, just bought a new 2021 Silverado LT Trail Boss a few weeks ago. One of the first things I am doing to this truck is upgrading the few halogen bulbs that GM decided to keep on it. The Rear backup and license plate lights all went super smooth, no issue. But when I went to remove the front blinker bulb from the housing I was faced with a different configuration than what I've seen. The place where you would normally find the circular grip for twisting out the bulb has a small hex head there in place, and it does not look to actually come apart (Please see attached picture). I think that I might have a different blinker than what normally comes with this trim (and I think it may already be LED) but I am unable to find anything online that resembles or mentions this configuration. I am only able to find the typical bulb backing which does not match mine.
Does anyone have insight to this or possibly know what kind of blinker I have? I have included a picture of the back of the blinker as well as the light housing itself as I think it too looks slightly different than others I have seen.
Thanks in advance!
By Jarid Ashman
Alright, before you say you don’t hear anything let me explain first. This video posted below is my 2021 Trail Boss 3500k miles and has the most annoying exhaust sound. I know there’s some serious pro’s on here who could tell me what’s going on.
Essentially any time I start it up high RPM, accelerate, or decrease RPM’s I’m greeted with this annoying metallic rattling noise coming from exhaust.
Took it to dealer who claims it’s normal (per-usual) and says it’s the liters I can hear in the exhaust tone. They checked exhaust donuts and heat shields and found no issue.
However you can hear a rattle and what sounds like an exhaust leak. Was told it’s a flapper but it’s not, flapper is toward back passenger side. This is front passenger side.
I could best describe it as escaping air coming from somewhere near the manifold I’d assume. Almost like a metallic farting exhaust noise for lack of better description.
Videos to follow of noise while commuting.
I found a cheap pair of T1 Power folding mirrors on 1AAUTO (NON OEM) that are meant just as a replacement to the OEM Memory Package mirrors, obviously I don't have the memory package but I really wanted to give this a try and so far I would call it a success!
This is what I ordered:
P/N: 1AMRP03092 The Mirrors (from 1AAUTO.COM) P/N: 84532268 The OEM Power Fold Switch (from any GM Parts store) 22-20 Ga. Female GT 150 Series, Sealed #12191818 The Terminals (from amazon)
22 AWG 6 conductor wire The Cable (from amazon)
And The heart of the project: a generic, Chinese, Cheap Power fold mirror controller (from amazon)
I WILL MOSLTY BE FOCUSING ON EXPLAINING THE DRIVERS SIDE FOR THIS POST, IT IS ALMOST THE SAME ON THE PASSANGER SIDE EXCEPT THAT SIDE HAS THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR. WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THIS SENSOR AND RECONNECT IT THE TRUCK WILL SHOW -40 DEGREES, TO RECALIBRATE THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR YOU MUST DRIVE GREATER THAN 65MPH FOR MORE THAN 1 MINUTE.
Now my goal for this project was just to be able to power fold my mirrors when I leave my truck and lock the doors, but also unfold when I unlock. I haven't received the interior switch just yet but I am planning on figuring out how to make it work!
I started with checking my door harnesses for any existing wire that would make this easier, my truck came from the factory with the wiring for power adjustable mirrors, heated mirrors, and the puddle/task lamps (which is odd because my OEM mirrors did not have the puddle nor task lamps. The new aftermarket mirrors did include the two lights and I was able to get both of them working.
Next I played with the generic power fold mirror controller to see how it worked. It has the inputs for lock and unlock as well as inputs for an interior switch. The power inputs are +12V,GND, and ACC. There is just one two-wire output to fold and unfold the mirrors by switching the polarity of the motors. The ACC Wire (Accessory) is required because the controller folds and unfolds the mirrors based on the lock status. When ACC is applied the lock and unlock folding feature is disabled.
Next I looked at the GM Upfitter Electrical pinout section to see what pins I was looking for on the Mirror. There are only two pins for the Power Fold Motor,
Pin 3 Circuit 3412 Driver Mirror Motor Fold IN Control Pin 15 Circuit 3411 Driver Mirror Motor Fold Out Control
I first ran the new wires from the drivers side fuse panel to each mirror going under the dash and through the door harness holes and boots. I then terminated two leads on each side right at the mirror, the cable I used had 6 wires but I just wanted extra for any future projects. The mirrors went on without a hitch, and I pulled the locking pin off the mirror connector and put in my new two terminated leads in there correct positions (polarity really doesn't matter because reversing the polarity will just make the motor turn the wrong way).
Now we have two new power folding mirrors with our own DIY harnesses installed and ready to go.
Next is finding your power sources and Lock and Unlock signals. For the +12V I used literally any fuse on the drivers side (they are all always powered) and for the ACC I had to run a wire to the heated steering wheel fuse on the passenger side (The passenger side fuse box has both always on power and accessory power). For the lock and unlock signals I used Pins 2 and 4 of the K9 Body Control Module pink X6 connector. These are for the drivers door lock actuator.
Finally with the ignition off so that ACC is not powered connect the Fold control wires from the controller to the mirrors and press the lock and unlock button to get the polarity correct. If its wrong just flip the two wires for that corresponding mirror.
If you have any questions just reply!
You can see the Generic controller tucked away inside the drivers side fuse panel.
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