Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Exhaust valve tip failure.


Recommended Posts

Original owner, all stock 2015 2500HD WT 6.0 gas 190k miles.  Cylinder 3 exhaust valve tip almost gone.  

 

Engine developed a low noise valve tick on start up and idle, 3k miles later, louder and at all rpms.  Intermittent (twice) P0303.  Removed valve cover, rocker arm and observed damaged valve.  Roller lifter and cam journal showed no signs of damage.  

 

Of the eight valves, one destroyed and three others showing wear( pic 3)  Inspected passenger cylinder head valve bank, no signs of wear or damage.  Oil stain seen through exhaust port.  

 

Informed GM and assigned case

#9-5190338716.  The truck has been a solid performer and provides great service. The short years and high mileage may indicate future issues with valve lots that may be below specification. 

 

My plan is to replace all valve parts including lifters.  Should GM want to inspect these parts, I will make them available upon request.  

 

FDA59ADC-2D88-4EB7-B68D-AA099A516592.jpeg

10D5365A-FC90-47A6-8663-A00D9A31A4B5.jpeg

37D9C01B-56EB-41A8-8209-A2E33368E2A8.jpeg

B68D246A-1163-4809-940F-2164E6B055DB.jpeg

64240D3A-8872-442A-8D8F-500581564F08.jpeg

Edited by Jedibusiness
Added info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since the issue seems to be specific to a couple valves i would have an independent engine builder check the valve stem guides and basically rebuild the heads. Most shops I've used charged $150-200 to do so. Could of just been something simple.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the miles on the truck I would just put a new engine in it. 

 

GM isn't going to want to see the parts.  LOL they don't care, they want you to buy a new truck. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

True on GM caring about little ole valves. 

Top end is 5-700 bucks.  New truck 500 a month.  New motor 3-5k.  She’s a good mount and makes coin every time I sit in it.   Stick with what I got.  Keep in mind this rig has pulled between 6-10k while at full payload 98% of its life. Been up and down the IKE, handled I-40 crosswinds, and AZ summer heat. While heat radiated through the roof the transmission never rose above 195 F.   Cost per mile slays a Duramax.  Anyone who says the 6.0 with a 4:10 can’t hang...brings a smile and a chuckle. 

0BA9C559-EC48-45B1-BBC9-41BCC2F9D051.jpeg

Edited by Jedibusiness
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes. New springs and any valves needing replacement.  All lifters changed, new lifter buckets and valve guides.  Then I’m replacing all sensors.  Oil pump is good, replaced o-ring at the pick up tube.  Asked about replacing the cam for a a moderate 30 hp and 40 torque and Georgie suggested not to because my truck comes up for emissions next year. 

 

Really got lucky catching this before it dropped a valve.  Haven’t pulled heads since the late seventies.  Knew what had to be done, just had to dig in.  Easy pulling parts, I’ll have a ? when back together and running. 

Edited by Jedibusiness
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes. New springs and any valves needing replacement.  All lifters changed and new lifter buckets.  Then I’m replacing all sensors.  Oil pump is good, replaced o-ring at the pick up tube.  Asked about replacing the cam for a a moderate 30 hp and 40 torque and Georgie suggested not to because my truck comes up for emissions next year. 
Nice! Good to hear.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good catch and this should be in the HD section.

 

The 6.0 is about as bulletproof a motor I have seen. Many in service trucks have gone 300k no issues.

 

I would also use synthetic oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Heads back from the shop.  Confirmed the exhaust tip let go.  All new exhaust valves and springs/keys.  Shop reported one entire exhaust bank valve seats needed attention.  Most likely the passenger side showing an intermittent P0306 code.  P0303 code is explained with the damaged exhaust valve.

 

TECH TIP.  The shop relayed if motor in truck go ARP kit 134-3610 and torque as directed (no need to torque to angle).  Helps with bolts near firewall.  Motor out go GM bolts.

 

Waiting for thread chaser to start the rebuild.

IMG_3746.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Content

    • By Dillion Padgett
      I recently bought a (Gen 3) LQ4.
      I'm trying to swap this into an (Gen 4) 07' Silverado which uses 58x Reluctor, 4x Cam Gear, Front Timing Cover/Crank Sensor, and 2 Knock Sensors located in the sides of the block.

      I have a (Gen 4) Truck, So the timing cover/ crank sensor/ knock sensors can be used. I also have a (Gen 4) ECM/Harness.
      I know I need to get 58x Reluctor Gear put on & get a 4x cam gear already

      My questions are as follows:
      1. Can I put a 4x Cam Gear on a (Gen 3 Cam) ? or do I need to get a (Gen 4 Cam) for the (Gen 4 Cam Gear) to work ?
      2. Can I use the (Gen 4 Knock sensors) on the side of the (Gen 3 LQ4) ? Just drill/tap & mount them ?
      3. If I keep the (Gen 4 Fuel Setup) could I just install that on the (Gen 3 LQ4) ?

      Any help or advice will be appreciated.
      I'll be documenting everything so others will have better knowledge when putting a Gen 3 Block into a Gen 4 Vehicle. 
      Thanks guys !
       
    • By Chevy25002007
      Hello,
       
      I own a 2007 Chevy 2500HD Classic, I was driving around when suddenly my ABS light came on as well as my service brake system light came on. When this happened my transmission became stuck in 1st gear in drive mode, but when I used the manual mode to shift it into 2nd it worked, also when I put the truck in reverse it stalled on me, these are a very strange group of symptoms and they’ve all started happening at once, also the speedometer stoped working as well.  I have no idea where to start with this so I’m hoping someone has a slight idea of where to start, Thank you!
    • By Tech Machine-Tool-Repair
      Hello guys & lady mechanics, 
      I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have???
       
      1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking.
      which is my next question,
      2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one? 
      O’Reilly shows 8 options 🤣
       
      3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct? 
       
      My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum
      differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done…
       
      Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though. 
       
      Happy holidays you’ll
      Dave 

    • By VinceWeiss
      I have a 2000 Silverado 2500 6.0 that is having some hesitation/cutting out on acceleration. It’s weird it seems like if you ease into the throttle it doesn’t cut out but if you mash on the gas it acts like it wants to die. It does it in park and in drive. First noticed it when I was pulling my boat out of the lake and I could barely make it up the boat ramp, it was spitting in sputtering until it eventually seems like it cleared up and started going normal. I replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, ran seafoam through the gas, and change the air filter but it seems to not of helped there’s also no check engine light. What could be the issue, thanks!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    242.1k
    Total Topics
    1.4m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    309,758
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Oscar126947
    Newest Member
    Oscar126947
    Joined
  • Who's Online   9 Members, 0 Anonymous, 447 Guests (See full list)



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.