Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Recommended Posts

2007 suburban k2500. 6.0/4l80e. I have a click when cranked situation no start. Also, power locks cycle every time it’s cranked. If you hold the key in the crank position it’ll click every few seconds. With the key in the on position I’ve had multiple windows roll themselves down, locks cycle, all kinds of dash lights. So far I have replaced the battery, the starter, main power wire from fuse block to battery, starter power wire to battery, I’ve cut the end off the alternator power to battery cable and terminated all these wires with a different style battery clamp. I am bypassing the 175 amp megafuse. All 2 gauge wire. To my knowledge the oem battery cables are shit so I opted to make my own. On the ground side I’ve replaced the chassis ground to battery wire, the engine to battery ground wire, and I’ve added an engine to body ground wire to rule out the. Braided ground strap on the back of the drivers side cylinder head. No blown fuses, I’ve switched the starter relay with another of the same size, and nothing has changed this trucks condition. I’ve tried tilting the steering wheel to see if that would let the truck start and it didn’t. I’m waiting on an ignition switch to come to oreillys this evening. I’m completely lost. I removed the under hood fuse block and inspected it and didn’t see any corrosion on any connectors. I’ve heard there’s some intergrated relay in the fuse block that could be the issue but I have no idea. I just bought this truck knowing it needed a battery and brakes, drove it off a trailer and parked it and went to move it 3 days ago and got this by surprise.

Edited by RandallPink
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve now attempted to jump the starter solenoid, I rigged the key up to be in the start position, got out of the vehicle, then bridged across the two terminals on the starter with a screwdriver and it arced and I couldn’t tell if it either groaned trying to start or didn’t engage with the flywheel, but still no start. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, C/K Man said:

Battery cables good?

I made my own out of 2 gauge wire. And I’ve put a multimeter on the negative side of the battery and poked every wire on both ends with the positive side and got the same voltage that the battery has, and did the same vice versa for the negative cables. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

7 minutes ago, RandallPink said:

Bought the truck with a shit battery, bought a new Napa battery. This Napa battery is what I’ve been using 

I got u just Wonder if the new one is  bad...

Edited by Racindave
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Racindave said:

 

I got u just Wonder if the new one is  bad...

Very well could be an issue. But the thing is is the truck started ran and drove with a jump with the original shit battery in it when I drove it off the trailer and parked it

Edited by RandallPink
Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, Formulabruce said:

check for any codes? This may need a tech 2 at the dealer, especially if the ecm got a lil fried

I haven’t checked for codes, and I’m doing my best not to have a dealer look at this thing lol. My wallet has already suffered. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Content

    • By SubParMechanic
      I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado with a 6.2L. About 2 months ago I had bent a rod on Cylinder 4. I replaced all the rods, cleaned all the rockers, new lifters (even AFM), new gaskets, plugs, and plug wires. After the truck ran fine for about a week, then threw code P0106, which is a MAP sensor code. And for the life of me I couldn't get the code to stop showing up. If the code is deleted the truck runs perfectly fine for about 30 miles, then it throws the code and has a bogged down, flooded feeling. I've checked everything I can think of and don't know where to go next. 
      What I've checked:
      Wiring Harness and Ground Connections
      New MAP and cleaned MAF
      Air intake gaskets and filter
      Cleaned Throttle body
      Checked Fuel Rails 
      Plugs, Wires
      Compression tests (all at spec or very close) 
      No leaks in intake 
      All fuses 
       
      After I spent two weeks after work on this thing I decided to take to the shop, they tried a new computer, new sensors, and ran a cylinder leak down test. The truck still is not fixed but I brought it home today because they told me the only option was to send the heads in to be cleaned and new valves. Said the carbon build up was causing this issue but I'm confused as to how that would affect MAP sensor. Especially when compression tests are all right where they need to be. When I replaced the rods I even checked to make sure valves weren't stuck and didn't make contact with head of piston. 
       
      Anything help and am open to all options. My next step is to take a look at injectors and to replace/clean the valves myself. 
    • By 01Silverado2wd
      hello gm-trucks commuinty i’m having issues with a smog readiness monitor not completing. any information on this issue would be greatly appreciated. my truck is a 2001 Chevy Silverado LS 1500 with a 5.3L v8 and it’s 4x2. all the readiness monitors complete except the secondary air system causing the truck to fail smog in california. i’ve heard the air pump turn on at cold starts and even replaced the passenger side check valve. also replaced the solenoid that sends vacuum. everything in the secondary air system seems to be operating properly but the monitor won’t complete. i’ve driven 100s of miles and done countless cold starts but no luck. even the smog referee said the system is working properly and i should just drive the truck more. anyone else experience this issue and what did you have to do to complete the monitor? there are no codes stored currently and the truck runs fine. thank you to anyone that helps
    • By Jgardow92
      I have a 2022 trail boss lt that has about 6100 mile on it now. Bought it brand new in may 2022 and it seems like the drivers seat leans to the left towards the door. Almost feels like Im gonna fall out of it and no matter how I adjust it it seems the same. Visually it looks like it sits level and is fine. Is it possible something is broken inside like the frame? I would assume the frame would have to be sturdy. Is there any place that sell a better bottom cushion?
    • By drmilesbennell
      Hey all,
       
      I have a 2022 Sierra SLT with passive entry locks on the front handles. Does anyone know if I can easily add passive entry locks to the rear handles? Acquiring the actual handles would not be the issue but I'm wondering if there is a harness (or whatever powers the front passive entry buttons) in the rear door to begin with. I know they come standard on Denali, so was thinking GM might just leave the wiring in the door for different trims but not include the passive handles all around. As I type this, though, I'm sure there's programming that needs to be done but figured it was worth a shot - because why not!
       
      Any help is appreciated, thanks!
    • By youn1033
      or sale are my set of custom painted, OEM Sierra Denali LED Tail Lights. I had these painted to go on my truck and unfortunately they took so long I had to go a different direction before I got them back.. I have since moved up to a 3/4 diesel and am hoping these can find an owner who will appreciate the time, effort, and $$$ that went into creating them!
       
      These OEM LED Tail Lights are selling for $300 - $500 a piece online, and the cost to have these custom painted Mineral Metallic to match the Denali paint + the lens smoked (lightly, not enough to dim them when lit!) was $700 - looking to get $1,000 including shipping. Can cut a better deal if wanting to pick up in person in the Houston, TX area.
       
      Please reach out for additional pictures, questions, etc. I respond much quicker via text (405) 642-9097
       
      Thanks!





  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    242.1k
    Total Topics
    1.4m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    309,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Markjhon
    Newest Member
    Markjhon
    Joined


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.