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19 SILVERADO FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE


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On 6/12/2019 at 10:48 PM, ModJunky said:

18 is factory for 19 models so I’m pretty sure it will fit I can get you measurements for center hub to outside of caliper if you need to give you a ideas of how much clearance there is 

This measurement plus a measurement from the face of caliper to the rotor face by the wheel studs would give everyone they need to see what wheel combinations will work with their truck. Can you do this and post the values?

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  • 3 months later...
On 6/13/2019 at 12:07 AM, flyingfool said:

unfortunatly big brakes dont stop better, they are just more heat and fade resistant. stock is great. the smaller lighter rotors and calipers have better handling that these porky bits.. where did you source these from an ISUZU NPR 4500 HD?

 

These trucks need better brake bias in the propotioning valves, and more aggressive brake pad compounds...   unless your pulling a 14,000lbs boat or trailer this is a waste of money and time IMO

The calipers are 2019 GM calipers. As far as bigger breaks dont stop any better I put Cadillac CTS-V rotors and calipers on my wifes 2008 Pontiac G8 GT and the difference in braking was night and day. In daily driving they stop much better than the stockers.

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8 hours ago, flyingfool said:

how big is the bore size on the caliper vs the oem stock set up? and what was the difference in pad compund...? 

 big rotors dont stop faster. they are actually more difficult to slow down. its called physics..

All things being equal that is incorrect. Bigger rotors put the clamping force farther out from the center line for better stopping torque on the wheel, so physics show that they do stop better. It's just like using a longer wrench to get more force to break a bolt loose. 

 

Compared to the K2 platform the rotors are a 1/2" larger in diameter resulting in a 2.3" pad contact surface width compared to 2.1".  The inside rotor diameter looks to be 7.2" on the new rotors, but I can't find what it is on the K2 for comparison, but I'd guess they are smaller.  Larger rotors also dissipate heat better which is another benefit.  

 

Edited by truckmann
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Like so many threads it’s always impressive the confidence displayed through comments made with no actual knowledge or understanding of the topic. That being said has anyone other than the OP done this mod yet? I’ve been looking at Bear recently but the ticket on this has a much better ring to it. For that I would probably pick up some slotted rotors to run to help ease the pain of the new 26x14’s in 38x15.5’s. So anybody give this a shot, 1SLOW1500 I’m looking in you direction haha

Edited by CovetedStyle
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On 1/9/2020 at 1:23 AM, CovetedStyle said:

Like so many threads it’s always impressive the confidence displayed through comments made with no actual knowledge or understanding of the topic. That being said has anyone other than the OP done this mod yet? I’ve been looking at Bear recently but the ticket on this has a much better ring to it. For that I would probably pick up some slotted rotors to run to help ease the pain of the new 26x14’s in 38x15.5’s. So anybody give this a shot, 1SLOW1500 I’m looking in you direction haha

I have parts coming in this week to do the swap so if all goes well I should know how it does soon. 

 

 

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the biggest issue on this truck is the brakes system's proportioning valve 70/30 or 80/20 which is typical GM tuning,  so much brake power is not being utilized , by over driving the front rotors and under utilizing the rears. you guys are wasting money on giant brake kits, twhen the factory system is perfect, its just out of tune

 

you could just redesign the oem proportioning valve  internal components, for $20 in parts and have the same if not better performance than this oversize monster brake kit for $1000

Edited by flyingfool
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1 hour ago, flyingfool said:

the biggest issue on this truck is the brakes system's proportioning valve 70/30 or 80/20 which is typical GM tuning,  so much brake power is not being utilized , by over driving the front rotors and under utilizing the rears. you guys are wasting money on giant brake kits, twhen the factory system is perfect, its just out of tune

 

you could just redesign the oem proportioning valve  internal components, for $20 in parts and have the same if not better performance than this oversize monster brake kit for $1000

"you could just redesign the oem proportioning valve  internal components"

 

Yup, that definitely sounds like something people with no knowledge of the design of braking systems, or the tradeoffs involved, or a knowledge of the capabilities and limits of the braking components of the truck, should do.

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On 1/18/2020 at 6:14 PM, flyingfool said:

the biggest issue on this truck is the brakes system's proportioning valve 70/30 or 80/20 which is typical GM tuning,  so much brake power is not being utilized , by over driving the front rotors and under utilizing the rears. you guys are wasting money on giant brake kits, twhen the factory system is perfect, its just out of tune

 

you could just redesign the oem proportioning valve  internal components, for $20 in parts and have the same if not better performance than this oversize monster brake kit for $1000

I don't think you understand the purpose of brake proportioning. All manufacturers use similar proportioning ratios for safety reasons. It would be really bad if you had the rear brakes locking up before the front ones. Most any changes from stock form (tire size, lift, level, etc.) make some changes to the braking bias. Sure there would be some braking performance gained from being able to adjust the proportioning valve, but unless you have access to the expensive testing equipment used by a major car company you will have no way to know how to properly set the valve and then you would run the risk of creating a much more dangerous braking bias thus doing more harm than good. 

 

I don't know where you are getting this is a $1000 upgrade or that it's a monster size upgrade. The biggest change here is going from 2 piston calipers to the new 4 piston calipers. I spent around $500 for all the parts including new SS braided brake lines and can probably sell my OEM brakes to help offset some of the cost. I did the K2XX upgrade on my old 2003 silverado and it was a nice improvement. Better than that was switching to Hydroboost. I can't say I really expect this change to make the truck stop shorter, but I'm expecting better pedal feel and less effort to get to maximum braking. In the end it all comes down to how good your tires are for the shortest stopping distance anyway and the last thing you want is the rear tires locking up before the front ones. 

 

Hopefully I'll have time to get it all installed soon. I didn't have time to get to it last weekend. 

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I don't think you understand the purpose of brake proportioning. All manufacturers use similar proportioning ratios for safety reasons. It would be really bad if you had the rear brakes locking up before the front ones. Most any changes from stock form (tire size, lift, level, etc.) make some changes to the braking bias. Sure there would be some braking performance gained from being able to adjust the proportioning valve, but unless you have access to the expensive testing equipment used by a major car company you will have no way to know how to properly set the valve and then you would run the risk of creating a much more dangerous braking bias thus doing more harm than good. 
 
I don't know where you are getting this is a $1000 upgrade or that it's a monster size upgrade. The biggest change here is going from 2 piston calipers to the new 4 piston calipers. I spent around $500 for all the parts including new SS braided brake lines and can probably sell my OEM brakes to help offset some of the cost. I did the K2XX upgrade on my old 2003 silverado and it was a nice improvement. Better than that was switching to Hydroboost. I can't say I really expect this change to make the truck stop shorter, but I'm expecting better pedal feel and less effort to get to maximum braking. In the end it all comes down to how good your tires are for the shortest stopping distance anyway and the last thing you want is the rear tires locking up before the front ones. 
 
Hopefully I'll have time to get it all installed soon. I didn't have time to get to it last weekend. 


I would like to hear a review of any improvements once you get installed. Also what part numbers you used and anything extra needed.


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