What kind of oil

[16LT4]

1 minute ago, MaverickZ71 said:

As for myself, in my never-ending search for the perfect oil (that is, oil that is easily obtainable to the common man at the usual places that automotive parts and fluids) to combat AFM problems, I've migrated to Shell Gas Truck motor oil.  

I too was thinking on switching to the Shell gas truck oil once my 2 "free" oil changes get used up (I'll have the dealer to them every 4k).

 

I read an analysis on filters, and was considering switching to Motorcraft filters (such blasphemy!) due to somewhat better internal structure in some aspects.  Wix aren't available locally, but the local AZ does stock both AC Delco and MC filters.

[swathdiver]

On 6/12/2019 at 3:50 PM, JimCost2014 said:

I have been using the new AC Delco synthetic at the dealership, seems to be a good oil, either made by Mobil, or Phillips 66.

 

On 6/13/2019 at 11:05 AM, dukedkt442 said:

I too was thinking on switching to the Shell gas truck oil once my 2 "free" oil changes get used up (I'll have the dealer to them every 4k).

 

My old Gen IV all aluminum LS is pretty quiet motor but was beginning to make some noise on start up once a few thousand miles had passed since the oil change.  Was using Mobil 1 full synthetic, regular weight oil, nothing fancy.  Viscosity numbers are a little thinner than ACDelco's new oil and Shell's Rotella Gas Truck.

 

The ACDelco oil I'm running was made by Phillips 66 Lubricants and has been great so far, resulting in slightly higher oil pressures across the board and has improved the truck's fuel efficiency.

 

The only engine oils whose specs show better viscosity numbers are the Group IV based oils, like Amsoil and Red Line.  I was a lifelong M1 guy, been using it since the 1980s but they changed from Group IV to Group III about ten years ago and was a little thin for my engine's liking.

 

10-9147/88865743 for 5-Quart Jugs - BUT Those Gen V DI motors take 0W20, so get that!

 

Edited June 15, 2019 by swathdiver

[Jacoby]

4 hours ago, MaverickZ71 said:

Time for ol' Cowpie to chime in on here to remind us all that the additive pack in the oil is as important as the base oil, and that while the base oil may last a long, long time, the ingredients in the additive pack do not necessarily last that long.  

 

As for myself, in my never-ending search for the perfect oil (that is, oil that is easily obtainable to the common man at the usual places that automotive parts and fluids) to combat AFM problems, I've migrated to Shell Gas Truck motor oil.  It's a full synthetic, is Dexos-certified, is for any mileage, it stands up to severe heat/cold and towing/hauling, and it contains their diesel oil additive pack specially modified for gas engines.  Shell Gas Truck oil is rated higher than Shell's own Pennzoil Platinum and Quaker State Ultimate Durability, which are both rated higher than Mobil1).  I get my Shell Gas Truck oil at WalMart (5 quart jugs) or Autozone (jugs or quarts) and my Wix oil filters (same as NAPA Gold or Platinum) from O'Reilly Auto Parts, since my cache of AC Delco non-E-core oil filters ran out.  

 

4 hours ago, dukedkt442 said:

I too was thinking on switching to the Shell gas truck oil once my 2 "free" oil changes get used up (I'll have the dealer to them every 4k).

 

I read an analysis on filters, and was considering switching to Motorcraft filters (such blasphemy!) due to somewhat better internal structure in some aspects.  Wix aren't available locally, but the local AZ does stock both AC Delco and MC filters.

I swapped over to Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 a couple of weeks back and immediately went on a 600 mile trip pulling my toy hauler to the beach.  So far I like it over the 0w-20 I was using.  Engine was quieter and oil temps were lower than before in identical conditions. 

 

I was one of those whatever is on sale I use type of guys but I think I'll stick with the Rotella for now. 

[16LT4]

I’m not up on the AC Delco filters...did their construction change (for the worse)? 

 

I know from my brief blue oval days, use of non-MC filters was a sure fire way to bring about valvetrain noise, and cause the old 7.3 Powerstrokes to have increasing cranking times before starting. 

Edited June 13, 2019 by dukedkt442

[TXGREEK]

Ok, just did a 4K mile oil change, Mobil1 0W20 Annual Full Synthetic is always black when I change it at 4K miles, this is Amsoil 0W20 Signature Series at 4K miles, looks like it’s only got 2K miles on it, proof is in the oil change, EXTREMELY IMPRESSIVE!

 

 

Looks like I’m getting a bit low

 

 

Sent from above

 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

12 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

Ok, just did a 4K mile oil change, Mobil1 0W20 Annual Full Synthetic is always black when I change it at 4K miles, this is Amsoil 0W20 Signature Series at 4K miles, looks like it’s only got 2K miles on it, proof is in the oil change, EXTREMELY IMPRESSIVE!

Just this oil change I've been pulling the stick for a look every 500 miles to have a color look. 4K a few days ago and the exact same result with the Red Line you got with the AMSOIL. Ditto on both Mobil 1 and QSUD. Black as tar by 4K...by 3K actually. Thanks for posting that! 

 

That should answer the 'color' question. As both of these oils are PAO/Ester and esters have excellent solvency you now know that the color is NOT suspended solids. So back to my original question. Why do you change oil? 

[TXGREEK]

Just this oil change I've been pulling the stick for a look every 500 miles to have a color look. 4K a few days ago and the exact same result with the Red Line you got with the AMSOIL. Ditto on both Mobil 1 and QSUD. Black as tar by 4K...by 3K actually. Thanks for posting that!   

That should answer the 'color' question. As both of these oils are PAO/Ester and esters have excellent solvency you now know that the color is NOT suspended solids. So back to my original question. Why do you change oil? 

 

 

I’m adding information to the OP’s question, Grumpy you should start your questions as to why change engine oil on your own Topic but for right now I’m answering the OP’s question in order to help decision on choosing the right oil that does not break down as quickly as other well known over the counter oils. We all know you love to over analyze everything you put your interest in but OP started a topic “What kind of oil to use?”

 

 

Sent from above

 

[KARNUT]

6K miles on my Toyota Camry since last oil change. Oil just started to show color. Whatever that means.


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[TXGREEK]

6K miles on my Toyota Camry since last oil change. Oil just started to show color. Whatever that means.


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Darker the oil the quicker break down and more soot accumulated from the oil. Apparently, it gets especially bad in DI motors


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[KARNUT]

Darker the oil the quicker break down and more soot accumulated from the oil. Apparently, it gets especially bad in DI motors


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Yes. It makes a good argument for more frequent oil changes.


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[TXGREEK]

Personally, I believe changing your motor oil at what’s considered as safe intervals is the way to go, unfortunately, our DI motors help escalate the breakdown of the engine oil and with extra soot but I believe changing motor oil earliest at 5K Miles while using a real 100% synthetic motor oil helps the longevity of the motor oil helping to save in the long run. Last I checked, a quart of Mobil1 0w20 Annual protection was the same price as Amsoil Signature Series (members price) which it’s a no brainer there.


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[TXGREEK]

Yes. It makes a good argument for more frequent oil changes.


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Hopefully no arguing comes out of it but all in all everyone is going to do what ever they want to anyway and arguing will only boost an insecurity factor of ones intelligence. I just showed my 2cents and leave it at that except I’m going on a 5-6k mile change the next time lol


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[Black02Silverado]

5k mile intervals is a great time frame.  Easy to remember ie: 5k, 10k, 15k and so on.  Plus you can rotate your tires as well and depending on how long it takes to put the miles on, change out wiper blades and cabin air filter. 

 

One thing, from my UOA's showing great results is 7,500 miles is a good target as well. Since we have an 8qt sump, it isn't as bad for that mileage as it was for a 5qt sump.  

 

Just food for thought. 

[TXGREEK]

This is what I’ve been talking about all along, Mobil1’s best oil not even being 100% Synthetic is almost $3 more per quart than the Amsoil 100% Signature Series. At 3k miles Mobil1 Full Synthetic breaks down and turns black where it takes literally twice as long for Amsoil to “VISIBLY“ show darker discoloration which obviously proves the point, longer intervals saves money at the same time best protection available for our engines. A buddy of mine that spends enormous amounts on his race cars told me that 100% Synthetic takes much longer to break down than the Full Synthetic oils. I’m completely sold and especially since I’ve actually noticed a much smoother running engine since I’ve switched to Amsoil Signature Series. Here’s a pick of today’s Auto Supply store, Amsoil at $10 per quart versus Mobil1’ best, it’s a no brainer!

 

 

 

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[Grumpy Bear]

7 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 

I’m adding information to the OP’s question, Grumpy you should start your questions as to why change engine oil on your own Topic but for right now I’m answering the OP’s question in order to help decision on choosing the right oil that does not break down as quickly as other well known over the counter oils. We all know you love to over analyze everything you put your interest in but OP started a topic “What kind of oil to use?”

 

 

Sent from above

 

Brother if you don't know the why you will not figure out the KIND. I'm on point here and AGREED with you. How often does that happen. Gift horse bother, gift horse. 

 

Now I'm starting to doubt what is meant by "kind".