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By Matthew Cleaver
Hi everyone. It’s my first time here but I need some help. My 2007 Silverado with an LH6 5.3 DOD motor has intermittent oil pressure issues. Alittle back story, the truck has 274k on the original motor. Recently, I replace the valley plate gasket, but only the outer part. For convenience sake, I left the DOD tower gasket part. After that, I replaced the oil pickup tube o ring and gave the truck a full service. My issue now is, I still have intermittent low oil pressure. I’ve read about a service bulletin where the oil pressure relief valve sticks, which requires replacing the oil pump and such but there are so many possibilities I’m not sure what to pursue. I know the oil pressure sensor is good and the screen below it is clean. The issue happens randomly. I can start the truck and it will idle and warm up fine (maybe slightly lower than usual) and then I can drive it. I’ll be sitting at a light or a stop and I can slowly watch the oil pressure fall off. Sometimes even while driving slow and then the oil pressure stays low or 0. It doesn’t cause any bad noises that I know of because I shut it off immediately but I’m so confused. After letting it sit for a bit and starting it up it’s fine. I’ve heard many possibility between it being the oil relief in the pump, the oil relief in the pan that apparently exists, DOD lifter problems (although they aren’t giving me any bad noise) leaking DOD valley gaskets (the ones I skimped on replacing) and more. I’m lost as to what to do. Can anyone offer some insight?
Around 15K I had the transmission issue with it slipping and the dealership replaced the fluid with the mobile 1 which seem to resolve it enough that i could live with. The transmissions still clunks into first when down shifting but whatever. Well now at 30K I have something similar going on, but seems just slightly different. When I'm cruising around 35-40 it almost feels like the truck is braking or downshifting and then speeding up, but enough everyone in the truck can feel it. At first i was thinking it was the DFM kicking in and its opening and closing valves so i bought a pulsar box ( i needed it for tires and autostop/start as well) and disabled the dfm, but it still does this weird shimmy. I know that doesnt necessarily still mean its not dfm but... still.
This may sound crazy, but its much worse when its really hot outside and the truck has been sitting for bit. This morning it was cloudy and about 80 degrees. Didn't notice it too bad when i left, but this afternoon it was about 95 (truck had been sitting in the sun for several hours) and when i went to leave even the passenger was thinking i was about to run out of gas once we leveled out around 40. After stopping and going a few times it settles down enough that its back to just being very subtle, but still noticeable.
Is anyone else experiencing something similar? Is it DFM, Torque converter, transmission or just something i will have to trade out to resolve.
I appreciate any answers that are offered up because i really, really don't want to get rid of this truck.
By Abdulla Muhsen
I've changed the original belt driven radiator cooling fan in my GMC Sierra 2004 to an electrical driven type and want to know what is the best alternator to install to overcome the amp loss without adding/modifying alt. bracket/holder or wiring connections please?
Forgive me if this question has been discussed but I could not find anything with a search.
I have a 21 Trail Boss that I want to lift 4" for a total of 6" to fit 35's. I have been looking for awhile now at the available lifts specific to the Trail Boss and AT4 and have narrowed it down to two...
The BDS 1805H strut spacer lift with UCA's.
Rough Country 27550 with their Vertex damping adjustable coilovers.
The cost of the kits are within a couple hundred dollars of each other.
I have watched all the reviews I could find on the Vertex coilovers and they seem to be good. I like the idea of them but I understand they can't be rebuilt so if they fail out of warranty I would have to replace them. Add to that the general sentiment that Rough Country in general isn't necessarily the greatest in terms of quality makes me very uncomfortable putting the kit on my truck.
BDS on the other hand has great reviews and a stellar warranty but I only get a strut spacer lift with new UCA's that retains the factory coilover with the Rancho shocks.
What are your thoughts, opinions and or experiences? Your input is much appreciated!
Okay so last year my ignition locked up & wouldn't let me turn the truck off. Well we finally got it turning but it would work without the key now. I was going to order a kit from ebay containing OEM GM door locks & ignition cylinder, but I found this cylinder in storage. So I was wondering if I could simply swap out the cylinders & if that would fix my issue? The ignition looks to be the same as mine so its around my era(89) of truck.
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