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tgg19

Low Oil Indicator

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Does anyone know how much oil is in the crankcase when the low oil indicator warning comes on? Mine seems to burn an excessive amount of oil and it seems to be getting worse over time. The last time I changed oil, I started at the recommended 8 quarts and by the time the oil life indicator got to 50%, it gave me the low oil warning. I added a quart and went on. I got the low oil indicator again at 26% of oil life so I changed the oil. Total miles during that period was 5673. Engine is 5.3L.

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Does anyone know how much oil is in the crankcase when the low oil indicator warning comes on? Mine seems to burn an excessive amount of oil and it seems to be getting worse over time. The last time I changed oil, I started at the recommended 8 quarts and by the time the oil life indicator got to 50%, it gave me the low oil warning. I added a quart and went on. I got the low oil indicator again at 26% of oil life so I changed the oil. Total miles during that period was 5673. Engine is 5.3L.
About 2-3 quarts low. Last i checked.

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It has been speculated on here that's why GM changed from a 6-quart to an 8-quart oil capacity in 2014.  And also why the GM Owner's Manuals say to check the oil level at every fuel stop.  They had learned about the AFM oil usage problems in the prior generation of trucks.  Instead of fixing the oil usage problems, they just predictably acted to cover it up.  So if you increase the size of the oilpan, most of the time, you can use 2-3 quarts of oil and still operate normally between oil changes.  Most people these days have their oil changed at a shop, and don't even know how to check their oil, so if the low oil indicator warning never occurs, they have no idea how much oil their vehicle is using.  

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16 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

About 2-3 quarts low. Last i checked.

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The time my 2014 sprung a leak at the oil pan and I got this notification, it took 2 quarts to get it back to the full mark.

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The sensor is mounted as low as possible in the aluminum part of the pan, then there is still the metal lower pan. I removed my lower to install a fitting in the upper aluminum pan. So i saw it from the inside.
And I have ran 6 and 7quarts before with no light.
I will make to guesses one you have afm/DOD still on truck? Two you do not have a catch can?

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1 hour ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

I will make to guesses one you have afm/DOD still on truck? Two you do not have a catch can?

Correct on both. I have considered both and will probably do both eventually but I have just put it off. Since oil consumption seems to be going up, may need to consider going ahead with it sooner than later.

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The can will solve nothing on the oil lose. Unless it is oil going through the intake and at that amount you need to start saving for a new motor. Should be blowing smoke out exhaust. The amount you are saying is considerable. I mean I can lose have a cup a week but it is 90% water in my can.
If it is afm I would get that removed sooner.

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My next door neighbor is the service manager at one of the local GMC dealerships. He has always been pretty straight with me about issues that are common. I saw him this morning as we were both leaving for work and discussed the issue briefly. He mentioned the GM bulletin about the oil consumption issue and said he would get it for me. Basically, it says the oil consumption is normal up to a point and I think mine is currently borderline at that point, if not over.

 

He said the way to fix it is replace the rings/pistons. The rings get compressed into the pistons in these engines and don't spring back out all the way therefore allowing oil and fuel blow by around the rings. I asked ballpark price to do that and he said $3k. Ouch. My drivetrain warranty expired last week!

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3k is cheap. The engine needs to come out and the whole engine need to come apart to remove the piston and connection rods. I mean you could work around the crank shaft and push the rod and piston out the top, but literally every single other bolt is remove so why not check the crank bearings? Honestly you can buy a 40k mile engine and swap out in a afternoon. Way cheaper, cleaner and easier.
The pistons have compression rings and a oil control ring on them. Hard for me to believe oil is making it up from under the piston.
I would believe there is oil loss donto the afm/DOD and do to the amount of oil that gets pulled through the intake.
If you need a need engine or someone tears the engine down. Look in the intake, the head ports and throttle body. Wipe it with a white paper towel. I will put money all your oil is there.

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He mentioned he was just out of warranty. I would go to the dealer try being responsible. They may defer some of the cost of a new engine, depending what the problem is. I had one engine blow in the 90s. A V-10 dodge. They knew I pulled with it and it was 10K miles out of warranty. It was determined that I couldn’t be a fault. I paid 1/3rd the cost.


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Run some Shell Gas Truck motor oil (available at WalMart and Autozone) for a while before you have your engine torn down.  Some on here have had success running diesel oil in their gas engines to free up stuck AFM lifters and piston rings.  The new Shell Gas Truck oil contains a modified additive pack from their diesel oil, but formulated for use in gas engines.  It is helping my lifter ticking and oil usage problem.  (No, I'm not a Shell dealer, just someone who has tried just about everything short of an engine overhaul to solve the AFM problems.)

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Run some Shell Gas Truck motor oil (available at WalMart and Autozone) for a while before you have your engine torn down.  Some on here have had success running diesel oil in their gas engines to free up stuck AFM lifters and piston rings.  The new Shell Gas Truck oil contains a modified additive pack from their diesel oil, but formulated for use in gas engines.  It is helping my lifter ticking and oil usage problem.  (No, I'm not a Shell dealer, just someone who has tried just about everything short of an engine overhaul to solve the AFM problems.)
Hey what viscosity are you using?

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10 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Hey what viscosity are you using?

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Mine is an '09 Silverado with a LC9 aluminum 5.3L, and I'm back to using the factory-recommended 5W-30. 

 

A couple of years ago, I ran 10W-30 Pennzoil conventional for a year, based on a suggestion that a thicker dino-oil might halt the AFM oil usage.  Oil usage on the 10W-30 was the same, but the engine noises increased on cold starts.  

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Mine is an '09 Silverado with a LC9 aluminum 5.3L, and I'm back to using the factory-recommended 5W-30. 
 
A couple of years ago, I ran 10W-30 Pennzoil conventional for a year, based on a suggestion that a thicker dino-oil might halt the AFM oil usage.  Oil usage on the 10W-30 was the same, but the engine noises increased on cold starts.  
10-4.

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flush/clean out engine thoroughly.  Start with fresh oil to the top of line on stick.  Check every week same location after setting overnight.  Make a determination from that point on what or how much oil consumption you really have before doing a ring job?  

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