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By Brandon Allen
Question fellas And ladies, I typically don't post on forums, but I'm at a poss currently. My truck is 2010 Silverado 4.8 and after driving it for 30 or so minutes the traction control/ stabitrax light comes on, the tachometer cuts off and the truck feels like it's jerking going forward, if I'm stopping or stopped the truck stalls and won't turn back on for Maybe an hour. I've replaced the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, engine temperature sensor, replaced the plugs and wires maybe a year ago, and I don't drive it much because I live close to work. Yesterday I had been driving it a little farther because I thought it was fixed, but as I was getting on the highway, the truck popped/ jerked, and the stabitrax/traction control off displayed and a couple of seconds later, the tachometer went to zero. I was able to get her home, but the truck kept jerking all the way home. I think the problem is unrelated, but my oil pressure has been getting lower as I drive it. Any help would be great, thanks.
By zane richard
I bought another ride and it came with some HVAC issues . I’m not very good with wiring related trouble shooting so I need your help.
Its a 2002 suburban with the base hvac. No digital display and no dual climate.
*hot to cold switch doesn’t work
*vent change doesn’t work (blows out of front vents only)
[The Fan speed knob works fine And all fuses are good]
After reading up on the common actuator problems, I decided to try the relearn/calibration of the actuators. This literally did nothing and the part that has me stumped is that the actuators didn’t move at all during this calibration (you should hear them moving and calibrating)
So here is my thought on the problem. It’s either...
a) Both/ all actuators are bad and need replaced
b) The switch panel/ control unit is bad
c) There is something else and I’m lost.
Please help guys! Is there something I don’t know??
As the title states, I have a 2004 Suburban, 1500 with the 5.3L and it's a 4x4. The AC keeps blowing the 10A fuse.
A few weeks back the family and I were driving a few hours away in the car. I stopped halfway(but didn't turn off the car) to fill up with gas and grab snacks. When I came back in I noticed the AC wasn't cold, but all the blowers were going and the light was on the dash. I popped the hood and noticed the compressor wasn't going, so I checked the fuses and found that 10amp AC fuse was blown. I replaced it with a 15 amp(only one I had) and finished the drive down. For the rest of the day it kept blowing the fuse, and I eventually worked up to a 30amp fuse in order to make it home. I know that's bad but it was hot and I have a newborn so no AC for 2 hours wasn't really an option.
At home, I found this thread(that's pasted below). Seems like the exact same problem, so I went ahead and replaced the AC clutch earlier this week. Mind you everything appears to be working 100% normal. When I pop a new fuse in, the AC pump works and the AC is ice cold. After replacing the AC clutch, it's blowing the fuses again.
I'm not really sure where to look or where to start for fixing this issue. It just randomly started happening. Maybe it's a wire that's shorting out? The only semi-consistent thing I notice is that if the car is running, and I put in a new fuse, it won't blow unless I drive it AND put it back in park. Driving for hours its fine. Only once I put it in park it seems to blow then.
At my wits end. Any ideas? The only thing I can think is the wiring to the clutch compressor is shorting out somewhere intermittently. Thank you for any suggestions!!
Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com
Ford has been working hard behind the scenes to develop the world's first mass-produced, mainstream electric pickup truck. That development is now to the point where Ford is ready to start showing off a bit. This week, Ford's chief engineer for the F-150, Linda Zhang, hooked up the test mule to ten double-decker rail cars. She then tugged that train 1,000 feet. To add a bit of drama, she then loaded up 42 F-150s into those rail cars and did it again. Clearly, electric trucks will be tow monsters.
Ford is one of the best-positioned automakers to advance its fleet with electric drive. Ford is now a partner with not only Rivian, who is developing a luxury EV pickup, but also with VW. No other automaker has as much to lose by falling behind in the EV transition, and no other automaker seems better positioned to profit from EVs when they are finally ready for the masses.
Related Story: Is GM Working On EV Pickups?
Good evening everyone! This is my first posting on the forum!
I’ve got a 2011 GMC 2500HD 6.0 that has visited 2 tuners in the central Texas area. I have a TSP VVT2 cam, 3600 converter, forged internals, And exhaust, with more to come soon.
I have been told by these shops that my truck could not be dialed in like it needs to be due to missing airflow tables on HPtuners. Supposedly the 2011 HD’s have a odd computer that has to be torque based tuned.
I am having idle problems... pulling up to stop lights and turns the truck will die 8/10 times, but starts right back up.
Anyone know a way around this hiccup? These shops have gotten it to the best they could, which still is not enough obviously.
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