Fluids change or leave them be?

Summit850 · July 22, 2019

I recommend changing the rear differential as soon as possible. i bought a December 18 built 2018 in march. The rear had a thin gray lubricant in it. I have not seen a hypoid gear oil that looked like it at all. Replaced with 75-90 Mobil1. If you really want to be bullet proof, i have used SHC 535 in my Jeep T90 and D18. Not a consumer lube, but you have to buy it to appreciate it. That oil is rated at like 10,000 hours.

Do this, especially if you plan to tow. Towing increases the temperature in the rear differential to temps like 200 degrees...

Truck isn't used for hauling much. Snowmobile in the box in the winter. Although I am running larger heavy ply tires. Mobil1 will likely be what I use. As mentioned before amsoil seems to be tuff to get ahold of here in new brunswick.

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diyer2 · July 22, 2019

3 hours ago, Summit850 said:

Well my 2010 is still going strong 300 plus. Cant argue with that.

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4 hours ago, Summit850 said:

What's the general opinion on changing your front and rear diff fluid along with trans and transfer case? I was always told dont touch the transmission unless it looks burnt and dirty. And with my last two trucks I havent changed any fluids other than motor oil and they have seen 300 thousand plus km's trouble free. Thanks.

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I'm confused.

Why you asking if you are happy with your method?

The owners manual answers the question if you want to do the recommended services.

I follow the severe duty for drive line and 3 K miles oil and filter.

If I feel like changing drive line fluids early it's cheap to do it your self.

I have used off the shelf fluids for years.

My last truck had to have a trans at 230 K miles but it towed regularly and I live in Colorado which means mountain towing and driving.

This is my 2 cents but everyone has an opinion.

Summit850 · July 23, 2019

I'm confused.
Why you asking if you are happy with your method?
The owners manual answers the question if you want to do the recommended services.
I follow the severe duty for drive line and 3 K miles oil and filter.
If I feel like changing drive line fluids early it's cheap to do it your self.
I have used off the shelf fluids for years.
My last truck had to have a trans at 230 K miles but it towed regularly and I live in Colorado which means mountain towing and driving.
This is my 2 cents but everyone has an opinion.

[emoji4]

Yes my method of just not servicing them seems to have worked well for me. Maybe a stroke of luck. Always ran P metric tires. Now running 34 inch toyos. Mileage has definitely not faired well. Along with that I'm guessing my drivetrain is seeing more stress with those tires. Truck is currently at 85000km to my knowledge motor oil is the only oil that's been changed on this truck.

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Eddie 70 · July 23, 2019

I am a believer in changing the engine oil and filter every 5k miles. I changed the trans fluid and filter at around 72k and it looked like chocolate milk. Since then, every 15kk miles I pull a gallon of trans fluid out the dip stick and add a clean gallon back to the trans.

Summit850 · July 23, 2019

I am a believer in changing the engine oil and filter every 5k miles. I changed the trans fluid and filter at around 72k and it looked like chocolate milk. Since then, every 15kk miles I pull a gallon of trans fluid out the dip stick and add a clean gallon back to the trans.

Much of a job to do trans and filter?

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300 Blackout · July 23, 2019

Much of a job to do trans and filter?

Easier than I though it would be.

Getting the exhaust out of the way will be the biggest challenge. Pulling the filter seal is the second hardest part if you don’t have a seal puller. If I were to do it again, I would just leave the filter seal in place unless I had a puller.

Other than those two things, it’s just a matter of disconnecting the cooler output line at the radiator or the cooler return line at the trans and flushing fluid through it to get as much of the old stuff out and new stuff in.

If you are determine to get all the old fluid out, buy an extra 4-6 quarts to use for flushing.

Also, even though the gasket is reusable, if you live in the rust belt, spend the extra $15 to have a gasket on hand in case your’s is compromised.

300 Blackout · July 23, 2019

I am a believer in changing the engine oil and filter every 5k miles. I changed the trans fluid and filter at around 72k and it looked like chocolate milk. Since then, every 15kk miles I pull a gallon of trans fluid out the dip stick and add a clean gallon back to the trans.

Mine looked black, like well used motor oil. I modified the thermostat to keep the fluid cooler and added an external auxiliary filter. Hopefully that will help things last a bit longer.

Grumpy Bear · July 23, 2019

4 hours ago, PPK said:

The rear had a thin gray lubricant in it.

Didn't look like that when it was filled. That gray is the phosphate coating that is applied to the gear for break-in. Repeat, not an oil issue. 75W90 is what was in it. ACDelco. (A Mobil product).

mookdoc6 · July 23, 2019

12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Didn't look like that when it was filled. That gray is the phosphate coating that is applied to the gear for break-in. Repeat, not an oil issue. 75W90 is what was in it. ACDelco. (A Mobil product).

Correct! Crunch the Gears for 15K then replace fluid to specified grade.

Eddie 70 · July 23, 2019

21 hours ago, 300 Blackout said:

Mine looked black, like well used motor oil. I modified the thermostat to keep the fluid cooler and added an external auxiliary filter. Hopefully that will help things last a bit longer.

I have thought about doing this several times. I really like the idea of an external spin on filter for the trans. It's got to help.

flyingfool · July 24, 2019

i just pumped out a gallon thru the trans cooler this weekend, was the easiest trans fluid drain I've ever done. truck has 30k on it and it was looking brownish.. I figure I'll pull the pan filter at 50k miles. all it took was 3/8 poly line and an empty water bottle and i didn't get dirty. lots of videos online for this trick.

flyingfool · July 24, 2019

anyone try adding Molybdenum disulfide to your rear diff fluid? I get a tube from Honda motorcycle dealer (hondamolylube) for about $18 and shoot it into the diff after a fill up. stuff is amaizing...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

KARNUT · July 24, 2019

Speaking personally as well as family vehicles. Cars and 1/2 ton trucks, unless I bought something use with very high miles to modify or rebuild. I never changed the gearbox fluids or rear end fluids before 100-150K miles unless modifying. Transmission fluid if didn’t already have synthetic I would pull a cooling line. Turn on vehicle pump out fluid and add synthetic. Then a simple dip stick smell and color check on the transmission. These of course were non pulling or hauling vehicles.

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