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E8BF92E1-71C7-4FC7-AA20-AC31F2FE5772.thumb.png.9854bf5ddf208b11228c7bfeb3d0bdff.pngI have a 2004 Silverado 4.8 2wd and it’s been perfectly fine for the last 5 months of me owing it and last night I go to start it and it doesn’t do anything other than normal acc. Stuff. No crank at all. when I put it to the starting position the only thing that clicks is the starter relay and throttle body. I thought it was the starter so I tried crossing it and it worked fine but I still had my doubts so I pulled it and had it tested and it was fine. I tried jumping it didn’t work and I checked battery voltage and it was 12.6 so that should be fine. I went through every single fuse to make sure that some dumb fuse wasn’t causing all this. And they were all fine. I checked for power from the ignition to the fuse and from there to the starter relay when switched on and those were fine. I borrowed my friends ignition cylinder to see if there was some weird security thing but that didn’t work. I plugged in a code reader and it’s saying that all shift solenoids are bad including the one for the torque converter overdrive solenoid. And the shift timing solenoid is also bad. I don’t know if it’ll work but I’ll try leaving a link to my code read off at the end. Oh and also my blower motor is constantly on now no matter what unless I pull the fuse then it’llturn off. It’s weird no matter how much I stare at it and no matter how many tools I buy it still doesn’twork. Haha

 

 

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Do you have any aftermarket electronics, such as a remote start or anti-theft device, installed? Beyond that, it sounds like the actual ignition switch may be bad, though its not common with the '03-07 trucks, whereas it was quite common with the '99-02 due to a different style ignition switch.

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You could voltage test at various fuses,relays,test for same as battery power,and do it with key in crank position,it will probably drop, another easy test is turn headlights on,use them as a test light,start wiggling wires leaving battery,watch lights for response,and check for critter damage under relay center,it's a nice nesting area

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Korbin said:

E8BF92E1-71C7-4FC7-AA20-AC31F2FE5772.thumb.png.9854bf5ddf208b11228c7bfeb3d0bdff.pngI have a 2004 Silverado 4.8 2wd and it’s been perfectly fine for the last 5 months of me owing it and last night I go to start it and it doesn’t do anything other than normal acc. Stuff. No crank at all. when I put it to the starting position the only thing that clicks is the starter relay and throttle body. I thought it was the starter so I tried crossing it and it worked fine but I still had my doubts so I pulled it and had it tested and it was fine. I tried jumping it didn’t work and I checked battery voltage and it was 12.6 so that should be fine. I went through every single fuse to make sure that some dumb fuse wasn’t causing all this. And they were all fine. I checked for power from the ignition to the fuse and from there to the starter relay when switched on and those were fine. I borrowed my friends ignition cylinder to see if there was some weird security thing but that didn’t work. I plugged in a code reader and it’s saying that all shift solenoids are bad including the one for the torque converter overdrive solenoid. And the shift timing solenoid is also bad. I don’t know if it’ll work but I’ll try leaving a link to my code read off at the end. Oh and also my blower motor is constantly on now no matter what unless I pull the fuse then it’llturn off. It’s weird no matter how much I stare at it and no matter how many tools I buy it still doesn’twork. Haha

 

 

You very likely have a bad ground or battery cable(s).  A bad cell in a battery is hard to detect and wreaks havoc with an electrical system.  Clean your grounds and inspect your cables for corrosion.  They can even degrade inside the rubber and you won't see it but can detect it with an ohm meter.

 

Clear those codes and try to start it up again.

Edited by swathdiver
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I don’t have anything after market but a pioneer radio I put in. But I’ve genuinely installed close to 20 of these now and have never had a problem like this at all. I checked it over though just in case and it seems fine. I unplugged it to make sure and it didn’t fix anything. I spent a good hour or so with a friend searching though every connector and ground we could find and there all in great shape. I didn’t check under the fuse box though that’s a good idea. 

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5 hours ago, carkhz316 said:

Do you have any aftermarket electronics, such as a remote start or anti-theft device, installed? Beyond that, it sounds like the actual ignition switch may be bad, though its not common with the '03-07 trucks, whereas it was quite common with the '99-02 due to a different style ignition switch.

Do you Mean like the part that holds the ignition cylinder or like a ignition module. I didn’t really word it correctly before but my neighbor has the same truck so I pulled his ignition cylinder out and put it in mine and it didn’t make a difference. Idk if I just needed to clarify that or if your talking about something else. Sorry

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Leaning off the trans codes, I've found some info here:

 

Quote

 

#01-07-30-002E: MIL On, Transmission Stuck in Second or Third Gear, IPC Inoperative, DTCs P0740,P0753,P0758,P0785,P0787,P0973,P0976,P1860,P2761,P2764 and/or P2769 Set (Verify and Repair Source of Voltage Loss - (Sep 23, 2005)

 

Subject: Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Second or Third Gear, Instrument Cluster Inoperative (Verify and Repair Source of Voltage Loss In Transmission Solenoid Power Supply Circuit )

Condition

Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:

  • The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON.
  • The transmission is defaulted to second gear (4L80/85-E).
  • The transmission is defaulted to third gear (4L60/65-E).
  • The instrument cluster is inoperative.

Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P0787, P0973, P0976, P1860, P2761, P2764 and P2769 may be set depending on the vehicle.

Cause

The most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of voltage to the transmission solenoid power supply circuit.

This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.

Correction

Important: If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of voltage at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections.

  1. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, test for battery voltage at the circuit fuse in the transmission solenoid power supply circuit. Refer to the appropriate SI Document for the transmission solenoid power supply circuit information.
  2. If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect the ignition voltage circuit between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens.
  3. If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, test for continuity between the fuse and the ignition switch. If NO continuity is between the fuse and the ignition switch, repair the open in that circuit.
  4. If you have continuity between the fuse and the ignition switch, the most likely cause is the ignition switch. Replace the ignition switch using the appropriate Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in SI. Refer to group number 2.188 of the parts catalog for part description and usage of the ignition switch.

 

 

I'm thinking a bad ground or bad power situation. 

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Check your battery ground wire

The steering column has a key cylinder and an ignition module. They engage each other via a gear in the cylinder housing. The module and the gear have plastic teeth that can wear down or break.

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Everything I read is, comprised power or ground,po101,MAF won't behave with low voltage,but the blower motor staying on? ignition switch?two problems?why does everything have to be so complicated, somebody wrote a song about this

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Sorry it’s been a couple days but I’ve checked everything you guys mentioned and the only thing I haven’t checked is the pcm cause I don’t even know where to start with that is there any way to test this or do I have to buy a new one and try that? I also replaced the ignition control module and that didn’t do anything 

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Check the small wire on starter,had one a while back,relay clicked,but no crank,the connection on end of wire only had a few strands of copper left intact

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