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By Christopher Haag
I've scoured the forums, and have tried some of the ideas with similar symptoms, but of course, I can find nothing exactly like mine.
2004 Silverado 1500 5.3L. Recent snow storm resulted in not starting the truck for several weeks, and the battery died.
I ended up jumping and getting it to the auto parts store. The whole drive, the DIC was all green squares, and none of the gauges worked (but the lights did). I replaced the battery, and I suspect the ~10 minutes disconnecting the battery "reset" the gauge. Worked fine on the drive home.
About a week later, I hooked up a 4wire trailer, and returned, leaving the trailer attached as I parked. The next day I went out and started the truck, the symptoms were back: All green squares in DIC and the gauge LIGHTS worked, but no actual movement of the gauges. I went back and unplugged the 4wire trailer, shut off and turned on the truck, and all was well.
So at this phase, I was suspecting a wiring/grounding issue with my 7wire/4pin harness. With the trailer disconnected, the gauges worked fine.
I let the truck sit for a couple days, did not connect a trailer or change anything from the last time I drove (when all was well) and the issue has re-presented itself.
The major issue is that the green DIC lights will not go off. I'm having to pull the fuse to avoid them entirely draining the new battery.
Some notes about my circumstance:
-Cluster was professionally rebuilt by reputable service in 2020 - all steppers replaced
-the cruise control stopped working late last year; the odd thing is it WOULD WORK if a 7pin trailer was attached. Weird.
-I've checked the grounding as best as I can with a lift right now, but it seems more like a parasitic draw somewhere, or power backfeeding from somewhere
I've checked the instrument panel fuse and have replaced it, although it was not blown. No change to issue
I would appreciate any help or clues on where to look next. Picture attached is with the keys out of ignition. The lights are just on eternally =(
By Caitlin Ellingson
Hi guys, just looking for some advice.
The issue: I recently had my battery replaced and shortly after this was done my low beams (both sides) quit working. The next day my stereo started turning off and on again, and there's a message on the dash saying "service theft deterrent system" with the lock symbol. I can still drive it though (not at night) and it doesn't lock me out. I checked the fuses and relay for the low beams and they seem fine. I haven't checked the bulbs yet but it seems too coincidental that both would go out at the same time, though I could be wrong.
In case this is relevant info: I had the battery replaced a month ago via AAA, but it turned out to be from a bad batch. It died after a few weeks while I was conveniently at a local shop getting a wheel alignment, so the mechanic there jumped it twice (once to get it onto the rack and another to get it back in the parking lot). They showed me how the interior lights were flickering before shutting it off (I didn't see the headlights at that point). AAA replaced the battery in the lot after that since it was under warranty.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'll take it to a mechanic next week but I wanted to do some research first to see if there's an easy fix I may have missed. Truck is a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE.
U0100 Lost communication with ECM
U0073 CAN Bus Communication
P2544 Transmission Torque Request Signal Message Counter Incorrect
P0700 Transmission Control Module Requested MIL Illumination
P1682 Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2
Good Morning Yall,
Long time lurker, first time poster as a member, and really appreciate this forum.
Recently the past year I have had some symptoms that didn’t affect the drivability of my 2014 Silverado z71 4x4 5.3, but were very present on a random basis, especially during rain.
Service Stabilitrak, Service Trailer Brake(nothing being towed) popping up the screen, sometimes binging back to back for extended amounts of time near to 30 minutes frequently.
Today the truck would not start, and presented these codes above under a check engine light. The truck started after having the battery disconnected for 15 minutes and has started since so far the previous 12 hours. Also while driving and the typical service notifications, one headlight being out, the truck engages the transmission at a slow roll/acceleration and a very very rough/lurching, almost feels like being rear-ended engagement, it would not engage power steering, and also presented a warning of reduced engine power. Some of these symptoms of course seem to be directly related to the codes, but seem to have progressed as time has gone on.
One issue noticed was a tail light having a small crack, and a sliver of water pooled inside of it. I am unsure if that may be related to the issues present, but I have ordered new lamps.
I have also previously installed a new ground cable from the battery to the block, and also verified the ground on the driver-side front beneath the dash/tweeter. The battery also tested good, so did all of the fuses on the battery side and the box side with the voltmeter. I have not checked the starter or alternator, but they are less than a year old.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
By Kevin Ernst
First post on the forum here so let me know if more info is needed. Was recently putting a new set of headers on the truck and decided that at 200k+ miles, I should replace the starter. My hope was to avoid having to pull the headers when it did eventually go out. I purchased a reman of the OEM part (GM Genuine Parts 323-1637 Starter, Remanufactured). Part went in no problem and I also replaced the heavy gauge wire to the battery as well as the smaller gauge wire to the ignition switch. All was functional for the first week or two, when I turned it over and got nothing... No clicks, but the battery had power, dash lights looked good. I hooked a power pack up and it started no problem. Thought it was a fluke or I left a light on, but after having a no-crank condition maybe one out of 15 times that I start it, there is definitely something going on. Here's the weird part... every time that it does not start, I eventually get it to start with no changed conditions. I've tried starting it in neutral which worked the first time, didn't work the second. Another time I screwed with the battery terminals and it started, one other time I just sat there for a minute or two after no-crank and it started. Battery tested fine but havent taken a multi-tester down because it's been starting anytime I am home. Any ideas?
By Jan Scott
Symptoms: (1) Driver’s side window sometimes (infrequent) will not stop going up and down when I want it to just go up or just go down--until you hold the up button position for several seconds--then it's ok; (2) Mystery pinging/chimes while driving with no warning light illuminated on dash (infrequent—no consistent conditions and no known cause or issue) (3) Intermittent starting issues. Tapping on the battery junction box and jiggling battery wires seems to solve the problem so truck starts. Intermittent starting issues don’t appear to be related to driving weather, humidity, ambient temps where truck is stored, or number of miles driven. When truck finally starts, system resets as if a new battery was just installed (e.g., clock changes time).
Status: New battery was just installed by dealership when I took truck in for routine oil change. Mechanic said battery was dead and truck wouldn’t start (yeah—probably the same intermittent starting problem I had been experiencing but forgot to tell them about--I also neglected to ask them if they actually checked the battery cells to see if the battery was indeed "dead"). Old battery had not been giving me issues relative to being “dead” although I did have a few start issues, so I never thought there was a battery problem. So the battery does not seem to be the root cause since the start issues are still happening even with a new one installed. I’m afraid the dealership will ream me for checking everything and insisting that I buy 5 new parts in the hopes that one of them will “fix” the issue. As a female, I'm already at a disadvantage for being lied to (it's happened in the past).
Things to Check?: Starter? Starter solenoid? Wires to the starter? Water infiltrating negative battery cable and rotting it out? Replace both the positive and negative side battery cables? I checked the fuses including relay and all appeared to be ok. Would a bad junction box be something to check? Worried to even drive the truck at this point for fear it won't start even with my tinkering with it in a parking lot. Found these things to check on another blog--maybe get these things checked? Blown 57 or 62 fuse in underhood fuse box; damaged wires or bad ground connections to various switches (e.g., P/N switch; IMS; TCM); bad switches...
If I go to an auto repair place, can I ask them to check specific things or do I have to be at their mercy for checking everything and them guessing but telling me something has to be replaced--based on their guess?
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