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By Brad OSullivan
New to the forum here, and I have a 2005 chevy silverado 1500 with the 5.3L. I drive to and from michigan from chicago for college every couple of weeks. The last time I drove up to michigan 2 hours into my drive the oil pressure gauge started slowly moving down from 40psi. Every 10 minutes it seemed it moved down a notch until it got to 15psi and then I pulled over just to investigate because the truck was running perfectly normal and no warning lights or anything were on. I did a walk around, no leaks, no engine noise and the oil level was in the same place as when I left. Also when I stopped the pressure gauge dropped to 0 at idle and the truck idled normal. I continued to drive till i got to my destinations 30 minutes later. The next day when I started it back up the oil pressure is now reading normal and has read normal for the last week. I went to tech school and I know my way around an engine and i'm almost positive this isn't a mechanical issue, im thinking its the oil pressure sensor or sending unit or it could be the gauge itself because first gen silverados are famous for bad gauges but i feel if it was a bad sensor there would be warning lights? Not sure though, any of you guys experience an issue like this or have any idea of what to check or what it could be?? Much appreciated!!
It feels like a dumb question but me and my friend want to turbo my 2002 gmc envoy slt, it's a 4.2l in-line 6 with all stock internals I'm not sure how strong the factory internals are on that engine and we want to know what we should replace if we even have to. I was thinking lower compression pistons, rods and bearings. Anything I'm missing?
Im currently thinking on which lift i wanna get im definitely going with a bds 4 inch lift kit On my 2018 1500 . But whats the difference in ride quality between the normal one Which includes a whole new strut between the more expensive one which has fox coilovers and shocks?? and have any of yall ran either one and how did it feel?? Also can i fit 22x12s in a 4 inch ???
By Andy Brown
I apologize for the novel, but here we go!
Alright, so 2011 Tahoe 5.3 LMG Flex vin 0, 158k miles, never given me any issues ever before.
Drove it up on ramps last night to get under it to just check everything before I tow a trailer over the weekend. All fine and dandy.
Go to start it to back off of the ramps-dash and running lighter all turn on. Turn the key to ignition and....nothing. If I try to remote start it, I just get an electronic noise.
Took the starter off last night and tested it multiple times at my work (advance auto) and my starter was super dead. Sweet, found my issue, right? Got a new starter. Put it on. Still no crank. No click. No nothing except everything else on the truck acts like it normally would when you turn the key.
I checked connection between the positive terminal on battery and the starter with a multimeter -just fine.
My battery is perfectly fine. Tested it multiple times now. Have a charger. Made sure it's fully charged. Double and triple checked.
Looked at all the applicable fuses I can think ofand swapped the starter relay with the ac relay (they are identical) and it changed nothing.
This then led me to believe maybe the ignition switch in the steering column was bad. Put a new one in today. Same exact issue. It changed absolutely nothing. Everything turns on but no crank and no relay sounds or anything.
Almost thinking that something isn't sending the signal to the little wire connector that is on the starter selenoid (attached to the starter). But I feel like I've checked everything that could block that.
I'm running out of ideas and I NEED (super awesome timing!) this truck to move from Lincoln to Omaha starting tomorrow 😕 ugh
Was wondering if putting 12v constant to that little plug wire on the starter solenoid may skip whatever is not sending the signal, which I guess would just confirm that there's no signal. I dunno. 8+hours into this so far. First time this truck has ever given me issues in 158k miles.
Also, no, it will not start in neutral.
Any tips would be awesome!
By Kenidoesit Bigg
This is one for the ages to me. The truck has the correct: FUEL PRESSURE: 60psi SPARK: verified visually [AND WITH STARTING FLUID] correct injector pulse [verified by test light signal from ecm, test light neg to batt positive, test lead to INJ signal] and I went a step further unbolted the fuel rail and visually verified spray from all 8 injectors].
THE TRUCK WILL RUN --- OFF OF STARTING FLUID
There is also a shrader valve on the passenger side [Fuel pressure verified and in spec 58-62psi] I used Autel scan tool to verify and slightly boost the rail presssure, STILL NO START -- IT STARTS AND DIES IMMEDIATELY, as if the injectors are being cut off.
The throttle body was replaced 1 year + ago, but the truck has been driving since then, using the existing thrott body... until now.
NO CODES COME UP EXCEPT THE HEATED SEAT BACK -- on a system-wide scan.
I did notice that if i unplug the INJector harness connector (only did the driver's side) that NO CODES will come up either,
as if the ECM doesn't care if i unplugged the harness connector to the fuel INJectors, NO MALFUNCTION REPORTS it.
ANY IDEAS that experienced techs with Silverado LTZ 2013 would be great if anyone else has seen this before, THANKS.
NO PASSLOCK MESSAGES
However I do notice that the ENGINE (symbol) STAYS SOLID WHILE CRANKING -- I dont know what this means on a 2013 Silverado, if any
thing..if anyone knows.. please HELP!
I will include here more info from my notes:
Tools: Autel MaxiSys
various jumper wires
THREW AT IT SO FAR: Crankshaft position sensor [Advance Auto, $40]
Oil Pressure Sensor (hoping it's failure was a failsafe, NOT!) Autozone $75! OUCH! that was NOT it!
8 A/C DELCO Spark Plugs, $7.99! They were sludgy, but NOPE, that ain't it either! $65
IF I Quickly cycle the key, just BUMPS at a TIME, im sure injectors are shooting fuel when that is being done, so
after about 5 or 6 BUMPS like that, the engine will run, BUT SUDDENLY DIES when that
fuel burns .. 2 - 3 SECONDS.. Never ran into one this tough
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