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Hopefully someone can help me, I made a dumb mistake of loosening the clutch lever pivot pin on my Sierra 1500 transfer case. Transfer case is a np246. I kid you not I have looked online for hours looking for the torque spec of that clutch lever pivot pin. Just want to torque it back to where is was. If anyone knows the torque spec for it I would greatly appreciate it. Below is a diagram of transfer case, #13 is the clutch lever pivot pin
What's up Guys. Writing this to gain some knowledge from gear heads that are more educated then I am.
I probably did all this backwards but available funds played a role in the sequence of my purchases.
Below is the order and links to all purchased items.
Diablo I3 Tuner- https://www.diablosport.com/intune-i3-performance-tuning/ Throttle Body Spacer- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IBV4K6A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cold air intake- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GP8FKGU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Performance exhaust- https://www.magnaflow.com/products/12867-performance-muffler-magnaflow-5-round-straight-through-performance-muffler?variant=18434149384307
I started off by tuning it with the performance preset tune that is pre installed on the I-3. There is a total of 3 pre installed tunes based on Octane Level. I believe it was ( Eco, Mid, Performance). I set the Tire size + Soft Shift points. I DID not change the Speed limiter or Throttle Limiter. No other changes that were available were made.
At the time is was happy because it basically got rid of the clunk when the transmission would shift at certain times upon quick on and off acceleration moments. Also the throttle response was much better. This was done somewhere around Sep of 2019.
Next up was the Throttle body spacer and cold air intake. Both installed at the same time. At this point it turned into a completely different truck. I believe it cut the 0-60 down by about a second. I did notice hearing a higher amount of back pressure in the motor. It didn't seem to be enough for a concern. Also it seemed to not fall into V4 mode as much as in the past.
Last was the exhaust, I had it professionally installed, They cut the 3rd Catalytic converter out added 2-1/2 pipe to approximately the same OE muffler location added the muffler a Y pipe and dual 2-1/2 pipes to (cowboy cut tips, Not that this matters).
At this point I have to be pretty heavy on the accelerator to take off and its falling into V4 mode constantly. In my opinion exactly opposite when it should be.
I went by a performance shop and asked some questions. they want me to pull the diablo tune and do a custom tune (Pay Me). They also mentioned there is an update for the I3 that allows you to turn off the V4 mode. When the guy connected the tuner in the truck after installing the update on the tuner from his shop PC he mentioned that it was asking for a new license purchase. " He couldn't do anything for me."
I honestly was in to much of a hurry when I did the tune. I didn't really keep up with what all was going on during installing in the vehicle or even if I registered the product. Lesson learned.
At this point I have contacted Diablo Sport via email awaiting a response.
Basically just looking for advice on which way to go at this point. I'm currently on the fence about adding a leveling kit and after market rims and tires. Which in my mind would require another tune.
Thank you ahead of time for any and all that take the time to respond.
So I have a 03 GMC Sierra 1500HD with a 4l80e and 4.10 gearing with the essential Intake and Exhuast mods. I’m in process of getting a Black Bear Performance scan cable tune and I’m about to fill out the Tune Order Form asking how firm I want my shifts and how much Torque management to remove and if I want the “Tow/Haul Ass” button.
This question is for people that have custom tunes. Since I have the Beefy transmission I wanted to take 100% TM off for normal driving because I want power when I need/want it cause that’s why I got a 6.0 and I like Firm shifts. I also like the idea of the Tow/ Haul Performance button.
My Question is, with 100% TM off in “Normal mode” would the Performance button make any difference that you can feel? I just wonder at that point if it would be worth getting the Performance button or should I have 80% TM removed in Normal mode so that I can really tell the difference from the Performance button. I want to squeeze everything I can out of it.
Anyone that’s chose 100% TM removed AND have the Performance button? How do you like it?
By Alex Warner
I have taken my truck to a couple shops but no one can seem to find what wrong with it.
When I come to a stop, my truck acts like it wants to stall out. It doesn't happen all the time but it is becoming more frequent. When stopping, the rpms die, all my gauges drop to zero and all my warning lights flash at me and turn back off. I don't have a check engine light on and when my truck is scanned, there are no codes that come up.
I have been told that it is possibly bad torque converter solenoids but I have a weird feeling that I might have some electrical gremlins somewhere.
There have been times where I am driving down the road and I go to make sure my windows are rolled up and the gauges due while rolling and my electrics cut out for a second and come back on.
There was also once where a truck pulled out down the road from me so I applied the brake to give them room and my truck downshifted hard and jumped to 3500 rpm and felt incredibly sluggish to get back on gas and up to speed.
Any help or any direction to a fix is greatly appreciated. Please help me find out what's wrong with my truck! Thank you!
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