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Installed a Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler and RotoFab CAI on my Trail Boss
I have a 2022 trail boss lt that has about 6100 mile on it now. Bought it brand new in may 2022 and it seems like the drivers seat leans to the left towards the door. Almost feels like Im gonna fall out of it and no matter how I adjust it it seems the same. Visually it looks like it sits level and is fine. Is it possible something is broken inside like the frame? I would assume the frame would have to be sturdy. Is there any place that sell a better bottom cushion?
So after some digging I found the build thread section.
What we have here is my 2014 Crew Cab Z71 4WD short bed queen. Bought a few years back as my daily work truck to put my weekend warrior back in the garage. When I first snagged her she was lifted on 34s and by the first drive home I knew the tranny was blown. Worked out a deal with the dealer I bought it from and had a 100k warranty remain installed where they paid for half of T&M. Factory crap struts with spacers front to rear came on her for a "lift". Within a few months I installed ICON Stage 1 kit to give her that quality ride effect. Love me some ICON, ride was supple on and off the road with this kit. When I decided to let go of the weekend warrior to fund the wife's new ride and changed industry's I got the itch to go back to my roots and slam her. I know I wanted to follow the same concept I did with my last mini must haves.
Suspension must haves:
Adjustable Coil Overs up front Adjustable emulsions in the rear (I went back and forth for months if this was needed on a full-size before realizing it was a MUST HAVE) Control arms up front due to 4wd and limited spindle offerings Flip in the rear 22x10 that sat flush if not almost flush and this go around the wheel set had to be SQUARE
After quite a bit of research I came up with the following mods, mind you not all at once
Mod weekend 1:
IHC 4/6 drop kit Front and Rear, dialed (according to my comparison from ground-to-fender measure on a 19' Z71) she sits right at 4/6 and within spec on alignment.
IHC 4" drop arms (Front) Belltech 2-Way Adjustable Coilovers (Front) IHC Axle Flip kit (Rear) IHC 1" lowering shackle (Rear) IHC drop shocks (Rear) Wheels and Tires 22x10 square ET +0
Cosmis racing XT-206R (finish chips easily but they also clean up easily) Lionhart 285/40/22 (Surprisingly nice ply and quieter than anticipated)
After the initial mod weekend truck sat with a Carolina Squat 🤮, the rear shocks had no ass in them and my measured adjustment on the coil overs were perfect however I did install per IHC instructions with the 1/2" spacers raising the front 1". Trucks rear was as soft as a yellow belly teenager, I would bottom out axle to frame and pumpkin to bed every where I went. This was not my experience on my first go around on a full-size (96' extended cab bow-tie w/ 2/4). I was able to load that rear end up with dirt bikes and motors all day long without issue, guess there was a leaf design change over a span of 18 years 🤣. After a week of banging down the freeway I pulled the trigger on IHC helper bag kit and QA-1 shocks within spec of the drop shocks from IHC (eye-to-eye extended and fully compressed). I made the mistake of purchasing Belltech adjustable drop shocks, these only work for 4" rear drops to my dismay 😔. I also noticed that the drop shackle in the OEM hanger configuration was rubbing at ride height, so purchased the shackle flip kit from IHC as well.
Mod weekend 2:
IHC Shackle Flip Kit (allows for cleaner travel of suspension, simply shoving lowering shackle onto system was rubbing frame) IHC 1" drop shackles IHC Firestone helper bag kit (Rear) QA1 2-way adjustable emulsion shocks (Rear) Designed and Machined custom bushings to accept the OEM bolts (Inventor and Xometry FTW)
Once I installed QA1's, shackle flip, helper bags, and removed and readjusted coil overs I got her squatted on all 4 corners EQUALLY. I rub in front occasionally on full lock to drivers only and over excessive dips in road mostly in front. I have bumped coil over adjustment up 2 clicks from factory on drivers and 1 on passenger. I have compression up 2 clicks from middle and run helper bags with 8-10lbs in them when bed is not loaded up. Rarely do I ever bottom out these days, usually if I have the truck loaded up with people to hit work lunch.
I upgraded the sound system at some point in time between ICON's and slamming. This has been an ongoing mod debacle on my end. Started by building a steel rack behind passenger seat to mount three Memphis amps. I was using 3 Memphis amps I had from my old truck build, however the front amp decided to start sending unwarranted signals to the speakers and the rear amp after about 3 years of sitting and 6 months of using decided to finally die after an overall 10 year party in 3 different rides😒. None the less the two AB amps were replaced with new Memphis hardware while the class D (knock on wood) keeps trucking along. Doors received focal 3-Ways up front and 2-ways in the rear. Class D memphis runs a sundown 10 under the passenger ina semi-custom box, added some height to the magnet area to accept the depth of the sundown 10 that runs on 1ohm. Memphis feeds it something like 800 watts rms @ 1ohm. Oldy but faithful Pioneer double din is running the show after trying 2 other setups to use the stock head unit. I initially tried pioneers CAN module but making fine tune adjustments or simply turning off the sub for when the kiddo is in the truck was a painful operation. Switched to an AXXES CAN setup, access to this was great, all the adjustments were perfectly accessible, however my trucks CAN did not like this system, I was getting all sorts of weird can signals and issues throughout the truck that I finally ripped that out and sent it back after trying two different AXXES units.
2nd year into ownership finally replaced the factory grill with the OEM paint matched honeycomb and updated the fogs and headlights with RIGIDs and paint matched 14-15 style headlights. Also threw in TRLS HID bulbs while I was at it and TRLS rear assembly's as well. I am an avid mountain biker so finding an easier way to load up the bikes was a must, when the pand hit I pulled the trigger on the RIDE88 truck bed system as they were doing a 25% off on preorders. Best investment for a biker ever, so easy to load and lock the bikes up, only painful when I have to fully utilize the bed.
Stock 5.3, that is mostly clapped out, so I have not gone ham under the hood. Initial purchase was an air raid intake using the stock box as most factory units pull outside air vs "cold air" tech. So installed the AirRaid intake tube that ditches the sound deadening box and did a drop in oil filter. After much debate, about a years worth, I pulled the trigger on the MBRP side exit exhaust. I knew from the day I started the truck with it on that I absolutely HATED it but for some silly reason I left it on. Now I am in search of an OEM exhaust so I can throw this junk away and do an electric dump out later on down the road. Eventually I will be swapping the 5.3 out for a LS1 or LS3 depending on what comes available next fall (waiting for prices to drop) and I will replace or rebuild the trans and will 100% replace the transfercase (culprit to my Chevy shakes when auto mode engaged) but first I need to finish my latest weekend warrior so I have a new daily while this ol'gurl is down.
More to come
What's up Guys. Writing this to gain some knowledge from gear heads that are more educated then I am.
I probably did all this backwards but available funds played a role in the sequence of my purchases.
Below is the order and links to all purchased items.
Diablo I3 Tuner- https://www.diablosport.com/intune-i3-performance-tuning/ Throttle Body Spacer- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IBV4K6A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cold air intake- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GP8FKGU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Performance exhaust- https://www.magnaflow.com/products/12867-performance-muffler-magnaflow-5-round-straight-through-performance-muffler?variant=18434149384307
I started off by tuning it with the performance preset tune that is pre installed on the I-3. There is a total of 3 pre installed tunes based on Octane Level. I believe it was ( Eco, Mid, Performance). I set the Tire size + Soft Shift points. I DID not change the Speed limiter or Throttle Limiter. No other changes that were available were made.
At the time is was happy because it basically got rid of the clunk when the transmission would shift at certain times upon quick on and off acceleration moments. Also the throttle response was much better. This was done somewhere around Sep of 2019.
Next up was the Throttle body spacer and cold air intake. Both installed at the same time. At this point it turned into a completely different truck. I believe it cut the 0-60 down by about a second. I did notice hearing a higher amount of back pressure in the motor. It didn't seem to be enough for a concern. Also it seemed to not fall into V4 mode as much as in the past.
Last was the exhaust, I had it professionally installed, They cut the 3rd Catalytic converter out added 2-1/2 pipe to approximately the same OE muffler location added the muffler a Y pipe and dual 2-1/2 pipes to (cowboy cut tips, Not that this matters).
At this point I have to be pretty heavy on the accelerator to take off and its falling into V4 mode constantly. In my opinion exactly opposite when it should be.
I went by a performance shop and asked some questions. they want me to pull the diablo tune and do a custom tune (Pay Me). They also mentioned there is an update for the I3 that allows you to turn off the V4 mode. When the guy connected the tuner in the truck after installing the update on the tuner from his shop PC he mentioned that it was asking for a new license purchase. " He couldn't do anything for me."
I honestly was in to much of a hurry when I did the tune. I didn't really keep up with what all was going on during installing in the vehicle or even if I registered the product. Lesson learned.
At this point I have contacted Diablo Sport via email awaiting a response.
Basically just looking for advice on which way to go at this point. I'm currently on the fence about adding a leveling kit and after market rims and tires. Which in my mind would require another tune.
Thank you ahead of time for any and all that take the time to respond.
Here’s my Walter.
By Tech Machine-Tool-Repair
Hello guys & lady mechanics,
I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have???
1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking.
which is my next question,
2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one?
O’Reilly shows 8 options 🤣
3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct?
My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum
differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done…
Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though.
Happy holidays you’ll
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