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Major positive camber after UCA replacement and spacer addition


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I purchased a GMC 2014 Crew Cab w/ 6in basic Gen 2 Fabtech lift.  Replaced struts and shocks as it was needed and took it in for alignment.  Shop said they wouldn’t touch it until lower balljoints were replaced.  So I replaced lower balljoints and put on aftermarket UCAs (Kryptonite).  I called Kryptonite to insure the UCAs were GTG with the Fabtech knuckle before purchasing; they gave the all clear.  I tightened all to spec, went to put wheels on and I now rub the UCAs.  Upfront, money is an issue so looked for most viable solution.  Purchased 2 inch Bora hub centric spacers and not wanting to trim the studs, look like best fit for my issue.  1.75” is all I needed but, I was sold on the additional .25”.  
 

Issue I’m facing now is I’m working a wheel at a time so started on front driver side. With everything attached and torqued, I lowered my truck down and driver side wheel now has extreme positive camber to the point sitting there like that probably isn’t good so I jacked it back up.  I did mark the camber plates with the OE UCAs and installed new UCAs to that position.  It’s as if the weight of the engine is now leaning on the front driver side wheel.  
 

Did camber plate position change with new UCAs?  Will the positive camber lessen when I do the passenger side front wheel?  Worried that jacking up other side the weight will shift more and cause everything to buckle on the driver side.  Any help is greatly appreciated!  
 

if posting in wrong forum my bad.  Just signed up, but been reading threads for a few months now.  
 

 

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Thanks Bash74 for responding.  I lifted the front in the air, put spacer on other side.  Put truck back on the ground and still having the same issue.  Think I have it pegged down to what it may be.  The Kryptonite upper balljoint stem is larger than the OE balljoint stem.  I don’t think the Kryptonite balljoint is seating deep enough into the Fabtech knuckle.  May have to chase the hole a little and see what happens.  Just unsure how deep it needs to seat honestly.

Edited by LushesJackson
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Davester the instructions that came with the Kryptonite UCAs said it may be necessary to do this with a 9/16 drill bit to seat properly.  Thinking about it, that’s my last option because making a mistake will get costly at that point.  Scoped out a few threads and just going to rip it apart again and make sure I seated the stud straight in and not angled.  I’ll check for junk in the hole at the same time.  I hope it fits the knuckle, which it may not, but did speak with Kryptonite if they would fit and provided lift information.  They gave the all clear but it may not be all clear.  I’m a noob to all this so it just keeps getting more interesting at every turn.  
 

posted up a few pics of the joint.  

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25950267-F58D-46AE-B87C-86FBDC795002.jpeg

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If the stud of the ball joint goes through the hole in the knuckle, the ball joint would need be designed in a weird way for drilling to have an effect.  Normally, the taper on the stud starts at just a bit larger than the threaded end, and getting larger from there.

 

If you need to drill out the tapered hole in the knuckle, it reduces the contact area between the stud and knuckle, making it that much weaker than even the stock setup.

 

That sounds like Kryptonite didn't bother making their part correctly for your truck.

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When I put my Fabtech lift with upper control arms on my 2017 it stated in the directions that the knuckle may need to be drilled out to fit the new ball joint on some trucks. Luckily it wasn’t necessary on my truck.


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Definitely check on what version of balljoints your kryptonite arms came with and what version of lift you have. I think the balljoints and knuckles may be different based on what control arms your truck came with stock. Whether you have cast steel/aluminum or stamped steel. So it could just be wrong balljoints. Which should be an easy fix just send yours back and get the right ones. 

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Thanks for all the knowledge, advice and tips to look for.  Called Kryptonite this afternoon and the tech said Every lift is different so their instruction may not fit what I needed to do.  He asked a series of questions about the truck and gave me some tips on what to try.  2 key things, 1 was to not follow instructions to mount ball joint on bottom of arm and go thru the top, 2nd was to ignore original camber settings as they aren’t good anymore with my new UCAs. Followed what was said and it fixed the extreme positive camber.  Now to fix up passenger side and hustle down to get an alignment.  

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IronVilkas, yeah instructions said mount underneath if truck is lifted.  Tech by phone said shove arms all the way in and mount ball joint through the top.   My camber situation improved but I still have it somewhat noticeable.  Figure good enough to get it to a shop for alignment and see what happens.  Did you complete your install and get camber corrected?   Curious for any tips you may have if successful!  

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IronVilkas, yeah instructions said mount underneath if truck is lifted.  Tech by phone said shove arms all the way in and mount ball joint through the top.   My camber situation improved but I still have it somewhat noticeable.  Figure good enough to get it to a shop for alignment and see what happens.  Did you complete your install and get camber corrected?   Curious for any tips you may have if successful!  

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