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My 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab has about 110000 miles on it. It just started having an issue that I cannot seem to fix. The engine stays running when I turn the key to the off position and remove it. The accessories turn off normally and the RAP seems to be working. Meaning the radio and things turn off when I open the door....this truck is all stuck with the exception of a light bar. I’ve already pulled the light bar fuse at the battery hookup to see if that had anything to do with it and it made no change. Any ideas? Thanks
Ok so I have a 2015 gmc sierra 1500. after backing up and putting it into drive I get going for about 5 to 10 seconds ill get a jarring lock up for a split second. First time it happened I was going about 40 and I bounced off the steering wheel and left a little skid mark. It sounds like either my transfer case or transmission is locking up but it literally lasts for a split second then goes away. also I've noticed that after shifting from reverse I hear a loud transmission whine before it does it. This has happened at least 30 times for about a year and dealer says they can't recreate it.
It's the 6spd tranny
Also I know all about the normal GMC transmission clunk when shifting I have that too but I've learned to live with it. This is something else entirely. Its dangerous and I can't find anything on any forum mentioning this issue
By Gregg C
I was wondering if there is someone that can help me with this truck. It has a rebuilt s&j engine (5.7l 4 bolt main) that I have been fighting to get running well. It has had all new sensors put on it except one thing to note is I received a bad engine with a cracked block installed the first go around and it was ran for a day to work and then next day back to the mechanic so it may have affected the new o2 sensor put on the good engine but I'm not sure. Well this 2nd engine runs really rough when its cold out and the colder it is, the rougher it runs. It takes like 5 to 8 revolutions before it starts and it runs good for about 2 seconds then it just hits the floor, back firing and missing like crazy. Another thing it does is once in a while the volts will drop from 14 down to 10 like the alternator stops working for 1 second then it jumps right back up. I've tried 3 different alternators and nothing seems to change it. It's like something gets turned on for 1 second thats shorted to ground and then shuts right back off but I'm not sure what it could be or if it has anything to do with the other issue. I've put new plugs and wires, rebuilt throttle body with injectors, map sensor, distributor, spark control module, knock sensor with pigtail, ignition coil, fuel pump, both coolant sensors, egr valve and solenoid, iac valve with pigtail, ecm and 3 different alternators. It really lacks power when it is warmed up and its getting bad gas mileage compared to the original engine. I used a red devil river aldl cable and tuner pro rt to pull some data off of it but I need help figuring out why the blm is so low. Is it because of my o2 sensor or what could it be? What could be causing my voltage to drop off like that? I can't get it to drop voltage with the tuner pro connected either. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am new to this tuner pro data stuff. Thanks!
By E. Rdz
I'm new in this group, I hope you guys could help me out.
I'm driving a GMC SIERRA 2014 ALL TERRAIN MODEL and I been trying replace my blower motor resistor, but the problem is that... I don't know where is located, according Google, amazon and o'reilly I bought the correct one. Every body is saying that is normally next to the blower in the passenger side, but I couldn't find it. I'm leaving photos to show you guys how it looks right where the blower is..
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