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Amp Going Into Protect at Higher Volume


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23 hours ago, Chris828 said:

Sounds to me like a wiring issue, I run a 2400w monoblock to 2 10" kickers wired to one ohm with no issues at all. Check your LOC wiring and amp to sub wires to make sure polarity is correct

After checking everything, I replaced the Kicker kisloc loc with a cheaper Metra one from Autozone and the issue is gone! I’m not sure if the extra load the kicker loc put on the wiring was causing the issue or what the problem was. Very frustrating but glad it’s fixed. Thanks all for your recommendations. 

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30 minutes ago, SummitBoss said:

After checking everything, I replaced the Kicker kisloc loc with a cheaper Metra one from Autozone and the issue is gone! I’m not sure if the extra load the kicker loc put on the wiring was causing the issue or what the problem was. Very frustrating but glad it’s fixed. Thanks all for your recommendations. 

Glad it's all sorted out, honestly I've had good luck with the cheaper passive converters vs the more expensive active ones. 

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1 hour ago, Chris828 said:

Glad it's all sorted out, honestly I've had good luck with the cheaper passive converters vs the more expensive active ones. 

Thanks. The Kicker was passive as well but had some kind of load it would put on the system. They say newer cars need this, but this stock setup from GM is so cheesy I doubt it was required and was probably causing my issues.

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My guess is that it was a type of interference and in turn clipped your signal leading to the amp causing the protection mode. If your amp has a phase setting try it on 0° and then 180° as I found in reverse phase it sounds the best in my setup

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19 hours ago, Chris828 said:

My guess is that it was a type of interference and in turn clipped your signal leading to the amp causing the protection mode. If your amp has a phase setting try it on 0° and then 180° as I found in reverse phase it sounds the best in my setup

I was wrong about the new loc fixing the issue. I’m still going into protect at high volume. The song I was testing had less bass so I was able to go higher than before. I’m back to square one. I replaced the speaker wire inside the box and outside to the sub to the amp, replaced the loc (third one by the way) checked ground and power connections, tried two different amp and sub combos. The power  and ground wire are 4 gauge which is more than enough for my setup. The only other thing I can think of is the custom LLJ t harness may be causing a speaker wire short somewhere. Ready to tear my hair out.
 

 

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Let's try to figure this out. Where are you tapping into the factory system for your loc? If the harness you mentioned is for the converter I would eliminate that and quick tap the speaker wires under the front doorsill panels. Wire the converter in with the quick taps and see if that gets rid of the problem. If not we'll continue with other possibilities.

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3 minutes ago, Chris828 said:

Let's try to figure this out. Where are you tapping into the factory system for your loc? If the harness you mentioned is for the converter I would eliminate that and quick tap the speaker wires under the front doorsill panels. Wire the converter in with the quick taps and see if that gets rid of the problem. If not we'll continue with other possibilities.

Thanks. What are the colors for the front speakers? Since it’s a mono amp can I get away with just tapping passenger side front speaker?

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Even with a mono amp you want to tap both sides as the amp will combine both input channels into a single output. I tapped the rear speaker wires with no problem. I'm not sure what the wire colors are for your truck as I have a 2018 silverado 2LT. I normally pop the panels and find the twisted pair of wires running to the back on each side and tap them.

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On 3/22/2020 at 2:41 PM, Chris828 said:

Let's try to figure this out. Where are you tapping into the factory system for your loc? If the harness you mentioned is for the converter I would eliminate that and quick tap the speaker wires under the front doorsill panels. Wire the converter in with the quick taps and see if that gets rid of the problem. If not we'll continue with other possibilities.

So I was able to do some testing after work to ensure my amp was getting enough voltage. With the dmm It’s getting 12.23volts at low volume as well as 12.23v when the amp goes into protect at high volume. This was tested without the truck running and no other accessories on. I believe this should eliminate the ground & power as potential issues. I have another set of rcas that should be delivered tomorrow so I can rule those out if the same issue persists. I have used these rcas through two installs so maybe they are the problem? I don’t see any issues with the speaker wires themselves as I’ve inspected and replaced them with a thicker gauge. After this the only other thing I can do is remove the T harness and tap directly to the speaker wires. This one’s kicking my butt and I get pretty agitated when I can’t figure things out.

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I've had the amp kit I use for roughly 6 or 7 years without any problems so if it turns out to be your rca cables that will be a quick and easy fix. I have a feeling the harness is causing the issue, especially after trying a different sub and amp. Does the sub sound clean and accurate while it plays or is it distorted?

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25 minutes ago, Chris828 said:

I've had the amp kit I use for roughly 6 or 7 years without any problems so if it turns out to be your rca cables that will be a quick and easy fix. I have a feeling the harness is causing the issue, especially after trying a different sub and amp. Does the sub sound clean and accurate while it plays or is it distorted?

For the volume I’m able to play it which is 50% or less depending on the bass it sounds pretty good. It definitely sounded the cleanest and most accurate with the Kicker loc vs the Metra and scosche I’m currently running. I still have the Kicker and will go back to it once I get this issue sorted out. This one has the highest output of the three. 

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