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Chevy express stereo replacement dilemma- where is the accessory wire?
I'm going to be mounting one of those 10.6cfm twin piston air compressors (maxi trac, morrflate, stop n go, thor) inside my cab for onboard air. My question is can I ground it to the body, should I run a bulk head and wire to the frame, or run it with the positive back to the bay and ground out on the frame there?
It has a 90Amp peak draw and I'll be running 6 AWG wire, it will be fused and run through a switch box to a 200a relay. I know in the past people will ground winches to the frame or body, but with all the computer stuff going on I've got this concern on the back of my head.
2020 1500 Silverado LM2
By Christopher Haag
I've scoured the forums, and have tried some of the ideas with similar symptoms, but of course, I can find nothing exactly like mine.
2004 Silverado 1500 5.3L. Recent snow storm resulted in not starting the truck for several weeks, and the battery died.
I ended up jumping and getting it to the auto parts store. The whole drive, the DIC was all green squares, and none of the gauges worked (but the lights did). I replaced the battery, and I suspect the ~10 minutes disconnecting the battery "reset" the gauge. Worked fine on the drive home.
About a week later, I hooked up a 4wire trailer, and returned, leaving the trailer attached as I parked. The next day I went out and started the truck, the symptoms were back: All green squares in DIC and the gauge LIGHTS worked, but no actual movement of the gauges. I went back and unplugged the 4wire trailer, shut off and turned on the truck, and all was well.
So at this phase, I was suspecting a wiring/grounding issue with my 7wire/4pin harness. With the trailer disconnected, the gauges worked fine.
I let the truck sit for a couple days, did not connect a trailer or change anything from the last time I drove (when all was well) and the issue has re-presented itself.
The major issue is that the green DIC lights will not go off. I'm having to pull the fuse to avoid them entirely draining the new battery.
Some notes about my circumstance:
-Cluster was professionally rebuilt by reputable service in 2020 - all steppers replaced
-the cruise control stopped working late last year; the odd thing is it WOULD WORK if a 7pin trailer was attached. Weird.
-I've checked the grounding as best as I can with a lift right now, but it seems more like a parasitic draw somewhere, or power backfeeding from somewhere
I've checked the instrument panel fuse and have replaced it, although it was not blown. No change to issue
I would appreciate any help or clues on where to look next. Picture attached is with the keys out of ignition. The lights are just on eternally =(
By Caitlin Ellingson
Hi guys, just looking for some advice.
The issue: I recently had my battery replaced and shortly after this was done my low beams (both sides) quit working. The next day my stereo started turning off and on again, and there's a message on the dash saying "service theft deterrent system" with the lock symbol. I can still drive it though (not at night) and it doesn't lock me out. I checked the fuses and relay for the low beams and they seem fine. I haven't checked the bulbs yet but it seems too coincidental that both would go out at the same time, though I could be wrong.
In case this is relevant info: I had the battery replaced a month ago via AAA, but it turned out to be from a bad batch. It died after a few weeks while I was conveniently at a local shop getting a wheel alignment, so the mechanic there jumped it twice (once to get it onto the rack and another to get it back in the parking lot). They showed me how the interior lights were flickering before shutting it off (I didn't see the headlights at that point). AAA replaced the battery in the lot after that since it was under warranty.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'll take it to a mechanic next week but I wanted to do some research first to see if there's an easy fix I may have missed. Truck is a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE.
U0100 Lost communication with ECM
U0073 CAN Bus Communication
P2544 Transmission Torque Request Signal Message Counter Incorrect
P0700 Transmission Control Module Requested MIL Illumination
P1682 Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2
Good Morning Yall,
Long time lurker, first time poster as a member, and really appreciate this forum.
Recently the past year I have had some symptoms that didn’t affect the drivability of my 2014 Silverado z71 4x4 5.3, but were very present on a random basis, especially during rain.
Service Stabilitrak, Service Trailer Brake(nothing being towed) popping up the screen, sometimes binging back to back for extended amounts of time near to 30 minutes frequently.
Today the truck would not start, and presented these codes above under a check engine light. The truck started after having the battery disconnected for 15 minutes and has started since so far the previous 12 hours. Also while driving and the typical service notifications, one headlight being out, the truck engages the transmission at a slow roll/acceleration and a very very rough/lurching, almost feels like being rear-ended engagement, it would not engage power steering, and also presented a warning of reduced engine power. Some of these symptoms of course seem to be directly related to the codes, but seem to have progressed as time has gone on.
One issue noticed was a tail light having a small crack, and a sliver of water pooled inside of it. I am unsure if that may be related to the issues present, but I have ordered new lamps.
I have also previously installed a new ground cable from the battery to the block, and also verified the ground on the driver-side front beneath the dash/tweeter. The battery also tested good, so did all of the fuses on the battery side and the box side with the voltmeter. I have not checked the starter or alternator, but they are less than a year old.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I am looking for some detailed electrical drawings/schematics for a 1994 Silverado K1500. I have the Hayne's and Chilton's manuals but may need more information about the electrical system. I had a shop do a LS swap in my son's 94. They did a great job installing the 5.3 with the mated transmission. The motor runs great and no issues with the transmission. But there are items that are not working that were working before the swap. The shop didn't give me an upfront estimate for the swap and was billing me an hourly rate so I'm doing the rest of it myself. I have used the search bar here with limited results. I am a new member here and I'm having a hard time navigating this site. Plus, what's up with all these ads that are everywhere? Thanks in advance for your help.
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