Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Chevy express stereo replacement dilemma- where is the accessory wire?


Recommended Posts

I have been trying to wire up a new stereo for my 2005 express, and I have already cut the factory harness (oops). The problem I have is that I cannot find out where the accessory wire is, and consequently the new unit will not shut off with the car because it's only wired to the 12v constant. I gave tried to use a multimeter to find the accesory wire by having the key in the on position and seeing which wire reads 12v, but the only wire I get a reading for is the 12v constant wire. Anybody know which wire is the accessory wire? Or whether there even is one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Should be orange. Slighty thinner than the other two oranges that go to speakers. I have no idea why chevy felt the need to use orange so many times. Its confusing.  I had the same problem make sure you check your fuse for it.  That was my issue.

Edited by MattM85
Needed to add something
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Content

    • By Ronjon
      I'm going to be mounting one of those 10.6cfm twin piston air compressors (maxi trac, morrflate, stop n go, thor) inside my cab for onboard air. My question is can I ground it to the body, should I run a bulk head and wire to the frame, or run it with the positive back to the bay and ground out on the frame there?
      It has a 90Amp peak draw and I'll be running 6 AWG wire, it will be fused and run through a switch box to a 200a relay. I know in the past people will ground winches to the frame or body, but with all the computer stuff going on I've got this concern on the back of my head.
       
      2020 1500 Silverado LM2
    • By Christopher Haag
      Hi All,
      I've scoured the forums, and have tried some of the ideas with similar symptoms, but of course, I can find nothing exactly like mine.

      2004 Silverado 1500 5.3L. Recent snow storm resulted in not starting the truck for several weeks, and the battery died.

      I ended up jumping and getting it to the auto parts store. The whole drive, the DIC was all green squares, and none of the gauges worked (but the lights did). I replaced the battery, and I suspect the ~10 minutes disconnecting the battery "reset" the gauge. Worked fine on the drive home.

      About a week later, I hooked up a 4wire trailer, and returned, leaving the trailer attached as I parked. The next day I went out and started the truck, the symptoms were back: All green squares in DIC and the gauge LIGHTS worked, but no actual movement of the gauges. I went back and unplugged the 4wire trailer, shut off and turned on the truck, and all was well.

      So at this phase, I was suspecting a wiring/grounding issue with my 7wire/4pin harness. With the trailer disconnected, the gauges worked fine.

      I let the truck sit for a couple days, did not connect a trailer or change anything from the last time I drove (when all was well) and the issue has re-presented itself.

      The major issue is that the green DIC lights will not go off. I'm having to pull the fuse to avoid them entirely draining the new battery.

      Some notes about my circumstance:
      -Cluster was professionally rebuilt by reputable service in 2020 - all steppers replaced
      -the cruise control stopped working late last year; the odd thing is it WOULD WORK if a 7pin trailer was attached. Weird.
      -I've checked the grounding as best as I can with a lift right now, but it seems more like a parasitic draw somewhere, or power backfeeding from somewhere
      I've checked the instrument panel fuse and have replaced it, although it was not blown. No change to issue


      I would appreciate any help or clues on where to look next. Picture attached is with the keys out of ignition. The lights are just on eternally =(

    • By Caitlin Ellingson
      Hi guys, just looking for some advice. 
       
      The issue: I recently had my battery replaced and shortly after this was done my low beams (both sides) quit working. The next day my stereo started turning off and on again, and there's a message on the dash saying "service theft deterrent system" with the lock symbol. I can still drive it though (not at night) and it doesn't lock me out. I checked the fuses and relay for the low beams and they seem fine. I haven't checked the bulbs yet but it seems too coincidental that both would go out at the same time, though I could be wrong. 
       
      In case this is relevant info: I had the battery replaced a month ago via AAA, but it turned out to be from a bad batch. It died after a few weeks while I was conveniently at a local shop getting a wheel alignment, so the mechanic there jumped it twice (once to get it onto the rack and another to get it back in the parking lot). They showed me how the interior lights were flickering before shutting it off (I didn't see the headlights at that point).  AAA replaced the battery in the lot after that since it was under warranty. 
       
      Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'll take it to a mechanic next week but I wanted to do some research first to see if there's an easy fix I may have missed. Truck is a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE.  
       
      Thanks!
      Caitlin
    • By Texweld
      U0100 Lost communication with ECM
      U0073 CAN Bus Communication 
      P2544 Transmission Torque Request Signal Message Counter Incorrect
      P0700 Transmission Control Module Requested MIL Illumination
      P1682 Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 

      Good Morning Yall, 

      Long time lurker, first time poster as a member, and really appreciate this forum.
      Recently the past year I have had some symptoms that didn’t affect the drivability of my 2014 Silverado z71 4x4 5.3, but were very present on a random basis, especially during rain.
      Service Stabilitrak, Service Trailer Brake(nothing being towed) popping up the screen, sometimes binging back to back for extended amounts of time near to 30 minutes frequently. 

      Today the truck would not start, and presented these codes above under a check engine light. The truck started after having the battery disconnected for 15 minutes and has started since so far the previous 12 hours. Also while driving and the typical service notifications, one headlight being out, the truck engages the transmission at a slow roll/acceleration and a very very rough/lurching, almost feels like being rear-ended engagement, it would not engage power steering, and also presented a warning of reduced engine power. Some of these symptoms of course seem to be directly related to the codes, but seem to have progressed as time has gone on. 

      One issue noticed was a tail light having a small crack, and a sliver of water pooled inside of it. I am unsure if that may be related to the issues present, but I have ordered new lamps. 
      I have also previously installed a new ground cable from the battery to the block, and also verified the ground on the driver-side front beneath the dash/tweeter.  The battery also tested good, so did all of the fuses on the battery side and the box side with the voltmeter. I have not checked the starter or alternator, but they are less than a year old. 
       
      Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

      Sincerely, Ben
    • By JeffOBS
      I am looking for some detailed electrical drawings/schematics for a 1994 Silverado K1500. I have the Hayne's and Chilton's manuals but may need more information about the electrical system. I had a shop do a LS swap in my son's 94. They did a great job installing the 5.3 with the mated transmission. The motor runs great and no issues with the transmission. But there are items that are not working that were working before the swap. The shop didn't give me an upfront estimate for the swap and was billing me an hourly rate so I'm doing the rest of it myself. I have used the search bar here with limited results. I am a new member here and I'm having a hard time navigating this site. Plus, what's up with all these ads that are everywhere? Thanks in advance for your help. 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    242k
    Total Topics
    1.4m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    308,968
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Lkn4spnr
    Newest Member
    Lkn4spnr
    Joined


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.