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By BLUNTEFX
So I have a question don’t get on me for being dumb just want other opinions.
I have a ls2 swapped rado bought the truck on a deal only problem was I couldn’t drive it for more than 20-30mins without getting trans hot on the dash and would go into limp mode but if you cut the engine off for a minute or two and cut it back on message went away for another 20-30mins but the actual trans temps never hit about 180
this is where it all starts.
anyway 1blown torque converter later and a trans rebuild my transmission guy told me the genius put a 2500 ecu in just to get the truck to fire up with a slight tune that pulled like a F****** freight train back to the point he tells me the truck thinks is has a 4l80 in it witch It doesn’t I have a 4l60 he said I needed to take it to a tuner shop asap so I don’t blow my trans or torque converter again because there’s a lot of major differences mainly being gear rations and shift points
witch I thought a tune would fix anyway but I wasn’t for sure so I got the truck tuned by Powerfab autosports and they reflashed the ecu programmed it and did a dyno tune
when I pick up the truck the dude shows me the power chart and the truck made 280hp 360tq
witch I think is way ****ing off but I am not a master mechanic I know a lot about vehicle but not enough to be firm on saying that’s bullshit
Why I needs y’all’s insight is because when the truck was ****ed up and giving trans hot display on dash the ****** was a ****** Ton faster and pulled a boat load harder the ass would squat the truck would drop a gear and scream so beautifully she would literally throw me back in my seat and keep in mind this is with 305/35/24s now it’s just feels like I have a slightly beefed up 4.8
engine mods are air intake long tube headers full exhaust trans cooler and that’s pretty much it as far as I’m aware
does anyone know or have any insight as to what is going on and why I am making such low numbers or where the **** my power went??
and I would appreciate no assholes just need some info thanks!
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By filib96
I need to add power to my power seats can I get ground and power from my audio system 🔊 and connect it to the pins on the seat plug to be able to get power and move the seat
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By cprime
My 2018 GMC sierra has a 150 watt inviter. I've hear the newer trucks with the plug in the cab and the box have 400 watt inverters. Anyone try to upgrade or retrofit these inverters into an older truck? I'm looking for a little more power and so far this is how I want to go about it instead of installing a separate inverter.
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By Tdubbzter
Need some help on trying to determine our issue. The truck will die, out of nowhere, without any warning. Strange part is that the truck acts like it does not have a battery. Not like the battery is low, but like it doesn't have one (best way for me to explain, or like we lose all electrical). No lights at all, inside or out, no radio lights, doors won't unlock, absolutely nothing when you turn the key. Both times we have disconnected the battery and reconnected it and all goes back to normal for a month or so. The first time it did it we had been coming back from the lake, pulling our popup camper and had been on the road about 2 hours. Initially I thought it maybe due to pulling the weight of the pop-up, but it's far less than what we can tow (weighs about 3k pounds with all of our stuff stored in it -dry weight is 1750 pounds). However, this second time it did it we were not hauling anything. We were pulling into a parking spot and put it in reverse to straighten up and it just killed over dead. And again, no warning at all. I am replacing the battery tomorrow but I really don't feel like that's the issue since we have never had to jump it but I am going to replace it either way just in case. Had anyone else had this issue and have any ideas that I can look into in addition to the battery.
*I will add that we are also having the Stabilitrack Warning light coming up too and that has been happening for about 6 months or more, so I guess that *may* be related, I am just not sure.
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