Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Recommended Posts

I'm about to install the Chevy Performance Brembo Brake Upgrade on our Silverado. Has anyone else installed this kit? Anyone thinking about it?

 

At first glance, it seems pretty straightforward. After reading the manual, however, I'm realizing I need to take the front wheel bearings off to access the dust shield. Other than that, it seems to be a easy  rotor/caliper replacement.  Big thanks to @RyanbabZ71 for recommending a great brake bleeding tool!

 

The front set is a true six-piston caliper. The rear calipers are stock calipers painted red to match the fronts. The size increase on the front rotors is significant. 

 

I'm gathering the tools I'll need right now. Hopefully I can tear into it next week. I expect the entire process to take me at least a whole day and maybe two days depending on how it goes. Why so long? I'll be photographing and taking video of the entire process. Can't wait to share that with you all. 

 

Check back in this thread for progress updates. 

 

Chevrolet Performance Brembo Brake Upgrade

 

Chevrolet Performance Brembo Brake Upgrade

 

Chevrolet Performance Brembo Brake Upgrade

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely following this. Can’t wait to hear the results. The brakes as they stand are good but I can imagine these will be a huge improvement.

I like the Camaro 1LE brakes [emoji16]


Ryan B.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I really feel the need to chime in here on the stock brakes, at least on my X31, are complete trash.

Sure they'll stop you but you have to give it way too much pedal.

And I finally found out why I felt that the brakes weren't really working that well. The ceramic pad material! GM's trying to hit 80,000 miles between brake services....

I managed to overheat them with three 70-40 pull-downs. (At least 1/4 mile in-between each, 55°day, not hitting them hard enough to make the nose dive) On the final one the pads started slipping on the rotor, and the rotors blued.

This was with an empty truck! Completely unacceptable from any brake setup, particularly one that has 4 piston front calipers.

I should have known just by the fact that GM was offering a $3,500 brake upgrade, that somebody in the engineering team knew that the brakes weren't good enough.

Don't get me started on around town when slowing to a stop light. The engine, even with my foot completely off the gas fights the brakes. I found the only way it's come to a smooth stop or at least stop where I want to is to knock it into neutral.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I take it they allow for stock wheels to still fit?  I'm surprised they don't offer slotted and drilled rotors for the price you pay.  I still have the stock pads on the front of my 2002 at 199,000 miles.  :)  Got to love the GMT800's

Edited by Black02Silverado
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
I take it they allow for stock wheels to still fit?  I'm surprised they don't offer slotted and drilled rotors for the price you pay.  I still have the stock pads on the front of my 2002 at 199,000 miles.  [emoji4]  Got to love the GMT800's
Requires 20 inch or larger

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, topgear1224 said:

Requires 20 inch or larger

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

Yes, minimum 20" wheels. Makes using the 17" spare a little harder if you get a flat on the front wheels. They recommend only putting the spare on a rear wheel after the upgrade. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Zane said:

Yes, minimum 20" wheels. Makes using the 17" spare a little harder if you get a flat on the front wheels. They recommend only putting the spare on a rear wheel after the upgrade. 

Zane are the rotors nitrite treated like the OEM's? 

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Zane said:

Yes, minimum 20" wheels. Makes using the 17" spare a little harder if you get a flat on the front wheels. They recommend only putting the spare on a rear wheel after the upgrade. 

Which kind of stinks since if I got a flat on the rear I would put the 17" on the front and the front good tire on the rear.  Unless the 17" is the same diameter.  I don't like running a different size wheel on the back with the G80.  One side turning different than another would put stress on it I would think.  Do we know if the spare is the same diameter as the rest?

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, topgear1224 said:

Yes it is.

If your truck came with 20's the spare tires diameter is the same as your stock tire, it just has a 17-inch rim.



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

Good to know thanks.  I know I could have searched the info but figured someone already knew and would chime in.  Again, thanks. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've finally assembled all of the tools I'm going to need. Now I just have to find a day to do it. Axle Nut socket, new electric impact gun, a dead blow hammer, and a swivel impact socket for the bearings. 

2020-06-22 09.19.40.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/13/2020 at 11:41 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

Zane are the rotors nitrite treated like the OEM's? 

They look to be but I'll find out for sure!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Brittney Trefry
      Hi everyone, first time posting, but long time reader. I usually try to avoid posting when I can, and  just browse the threads and read about related problems and figure it out from there. Even though I've found many threads that are similar to the problem Im having, I still can't narrow it down to my next step. so if anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated. 
       
      Ok so, BAD oil leak problem with my friends 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. It's had this leak for a while, but it's gotten to the point now where it's starting to leave puddles. I power washed the entire area, and I actually got it pretty clean. Today when I looked again to see if I could trace the source, I had a much clearer picture of where the leaks are actually coming from. From what I've read it seems as though it could be the valve cover gasket, the crankshaft sensor, the rear main seal, or even the oil pan gasket. My problem is that to me, it looks like it's coming from almost all these places. I looked inside the bell housing and I don't see it looking completely soaked in oil. It does however, look like the leak is mainly coming from in front of the bell housing behind the engine, in between the two. I'll attach some pictures. These would be from overnight after I power washed it, so the oil hasn't blown anywhere from being driven or anything. Thanks so much to anyone who's got any ideas! 





    • By WvldosWorld
      Alright so my 2006 GMC Sierra was stolen, they stripped my led head lights tail lights 22inch wheels cluster etc. .. I got it back and running but the cluster I replaced mine with was from a Silverado now as I drive the abs lights come on and it says SERVICE BRAKE BOOSTER etc battery light is constantly on when I drive it .. would this be because the cluster I have is not meant for my Sierra ?? Any info helps thanks guys !
    • By David Ottenbacher
      Hello, for the past two years my truck (2015 Sierra 1500 All Terrain) has been intermittently flashing service lights saying the to service ABS, to service stabillitrac, and to service parking sensors. This would happen a few times a month and would immediately go away and I would think that it was just an annoying bug. But since about a month ago, when making low speed left turns, as well as any size bump, caused it to happen. This worsens into ABS light and stabillitrac light on for one day. While this happened you could feel the ABS pumping at when braking normally. This too went away the next day. I took the truck to the dealer for a diagnostic and told them all of this as well. After the $190 diagnosis they said it was the following codes (attached photo)
      C0035-04, C0040-04, and C0035-0F. 
      they told me both front hubs were bad and needed replacement. They wanted $1800 for parts and labor. I told them thank you and paid the diagnosis and took the truck home. After the dealer the trucks electronics and 10x worse. Now the ABS and Stabillitrac lights stay on permanently, the brake light dings and flashes with any turn of the steering wheel. Also getting constant service ABS, service trailer brakes, Service stabillitrac, and reduced steering assist. I bought both front hubs and wheel speed sensors. I installed them and torqued everything back to spec. After reconnecting the battery and taking a test drive nothing had changed. I took the top panel from the dash off and did the ground mods. Again, no change. I’m going crazy trying to find the problem. I the. Took the truck to autozone for a code read. It still says the same three codes and it did, even after replacing the parts and sensors the dealer said would work. If anyone knows what the cause is it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dave

    • By austin jez
      Hello all. I have a 2013 silverado w/5.3l flex vin 7. Basically has rough idle in park and drive. Very poor acceleration. Almost seems to bog down when trying to accelerate. It will occasionally surge and for just a split second I can feel a bit of power.  Also doesn't want to downshift when I lean on the gas pretty heavy. I've got to do near floor it to get it to down ****** and when it does it will drop down 2 gears a lot of the time. No engine light and it won't set any codes. Showed 0 misfires on all cylinders. Long Fuel trims usually in single digits negs. Fuel pressure 43-46psi at idle and highway. I've replaced throttle position sensor, Accelerator pedal position sensor, manifold pressure sensor, mass air sensor, plugs, coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensors. Fuel pump, intake manifold gaskets twice (now with "updated" steel gaskets), throttle body gasket/seal, injector o-rings (upper and lower). Tested all coils for strong spark. Smoke tested for vac leaks along with propane. It has never failed to start or even had a long start and has never died/stalled. I'm just kinda at a loss at this point. Any help will be appreciated and possibly considered. Thanks
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    234,561
    Total Topics
    2,494,195
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    257,825
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Mathew Blackburn
    Newest Member
    Mathew Blackburn
    Joined
  • Who's Online   40 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,770 Guests (See full list)



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.